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FAQs on Compatibility of Loricariids, South and Central American Suckermouth Cats

Florida Gar and Pleco, comp., nutr. of Loricariids 7/24/08
Hi all--
I love your site, and have spent many hours reading in the last few months since I discovered it. However, I've had an issue come up that I have not been able to find an answer to. I have a seven-inch Florida Gar in a 125 gallon tank, with six larger-sized silver dollars and a Pleco. I am not sure of what type he is, but he is definitely not the "common type". He is brown, with a short, wide, compact body, about seven or eight inches long.
<Do bear in mind some of these fish will get extremely large; Gar will exceed 60 cm and potentially 90 cm in captivity if they are among the common species traded, such as Lepisosteus platyrhincus, the species usually sold as the "Florida Gar".>
Lately, we have noticed him interacting with the gar in a way we had not previously observed. He appears to be sucking on the gar. I know from reading your site and others that this is a bad, bad thing.
<Has been reported between these species, and yes, is damaging to the Gar. When the skin is abraded, the mucous is lost and it becomes much easier for secondary infections to get started.>
We chase him away and offer algae disks, which he goes for (lately, he's seemed overly ravenous, often eating four times the amount of disks that he used to).
<People tend to underfeed Loricariidae. Understand this: they are constant grazers and mud sifters in the wild, and don't understand the "two meals per day" notion many aquarists prefer. You need to give them vegetable foods such as courgette, sweet potato or carrot that they can nibble on through the day, plus bogwood for fibre.>
My question is this: is the Pleco suffering from some type of nutritional imbalance that we can remedy?
<Likely not an imbalance, but quite probably not enough fibre, so that the fish feels hungry because it isn't full. These catfish are adapted to feeding on a bulky rather than concentrated diet.>
If he's just being rude, and that's definitely possible, we can take him to the LFS. However, due to their lack of adequate space for larger fishes, and the fact that hideously overprice any fish that aren't tetras or mollies, therefore forcing the fish to be there in less than ideal conditions for a long period of time, I fear for his life. This would be a last resort. Please help! Thanks.
--Melinda
<Seemingly no simple answers here, but very likely these fish will need to be separated. Perhaps try offering a better (more vegetable-rich) diet, but if that doesn't help, you will need to rehome one or other fish. Cheers, Neale.>

Re: My Florida Gar and his Pleco Friend, comp., fdg. -- to Neale 8/9/08
Hi Neale--
Melinda here again.
<Hello!>
You responded to my email a few weeks ago regarding our Pleco (have since found out he is a rhino Pleco) and our Florida gar.
<Hmm... Pterygoplichthys scrophus, rather a nice catfish! Not common in the trade, and I think quite a handsome beast.>
The Pleco was getting a little too friendly with Fluffy (the gar), and seemed to be trying to snack on him.
<Can happen; not commonly, but does happen.>
You suggested feeding a variety of fiber-rich veggies, but predicted we'd eventually need to separate the two. Well, Dino (the Pleco) had no intentions of eating any of my tasty veggie offerings. In any case, we have separated them.
<Let's see if this helps. If not, then back to the drawing board. I suppose you could try offering her some meaty food. My Panaque is ostensibly a vegetarian, but she enjoys raw mussels in the half shell, partially shelled shrimp and other such delicacies. You may be able to tempt your cat to eat these things instead of her tankmates...>
Thank you for your advice.
--Melinda
<Good luck! Neale.>

Common Pleco in a planted tank...... 6/30/08
Hey there,
Quick question....can I put a common Pleco in a 150 planted tank? By common, I am referring to Pterygoplichthys pardalis.
I am working on a 3D background, etc, and plan on having various plants growing along the back wall space-in-creation. The bottom/mid level will house various shapes of large driftwood protruding from the "river bank"....the very bottom will have various boulders, gravel, and large driftwood.
I am worried about a Plec eating plants and disrupting their locale. That is the common complaint that I've found on chat boards and bio-pages. However, more than once I have read of the "exception". So I am confused and looking for a blunt opinion in plain English.
I have one that's about 8 or 9 inches currently living in a bucket.
(It would be funny if I stopped this email right there, eh?)
He was in a 55......I parted that tank out. Had him in a 20 temporarily. I also parted out my 150 reef and moved that in a 55 high current reef......planned on getting a couple of large freshies to put in the 150.......after 12 hours of moving the 150 inhabitants I went on the back porch to have a beer. I heard a loud *!Crack!*....... the 20 gallon, sitting on the counter with the tiniest little nick in the corner glass finally gave way (had been running for over 2 years). I chugged my beer laughing. All fish were saved (Plec and some baby Cichlids that showed up one day in another tank).....and they all now live in a 5 gallon bucket. The cichlids are going to a different tank......
Well, my neighbor has a gnarly fresh water planted tank and he turned me on to the idea of that rather than a couple of big meanies.
So.......
Can this Plec go in the planted tank? (Could have started and ended this whole damn email with that one sentence!)
Thanks in advance for the info. It's funny that sometimes the simplest answers to the simplest questions are the hardest to find. I've searched everywhere!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Jon
<Hello Jon. The short answer is that Pterygoplichthys spp. tend not to eat plants directly, being omnivores with a preference for algae and benthic invertebrates such as bloodworms. This contrasts with, for example, Panaque spp. that are almost entirely herbivorous and feed on plants and wood rather than algae. However, this distinction is somewhat academic, because large Plecs can and will uproot or otherwise damage all but the most sturdy plants. They swim like bricks, as you probably realise, and don't so much avoid plants and bulldoze through them. In the process they will uproot small plants and break the leaves off bigger plants. They also like to burrow, and this sand or gravel shifting can easily end up smothering plants. Finally, they have rasping teeth that can damage soft-leaved and waxy-leaved plants in the process of their grazing on algae. The best plants for tanks with Plecs are robust but flexible and fast-growing species, such as Giant Vallisneria. Java Fern can work well too, partly because it is tough, but also because it doesn't need to be planted in the substrate, so isn't uprooted or smothered easily. Anubias might work well, though when kept with Panaque it ends up being reduced to a Swiss Cheese Plant, so I'd not necessarily recommend it. I'd also mention the fact Panaque destroy painted polystyrene/resin backdrops that go inside the tank; Pterygoplichthys may be different (it has less robust teeth) but I wouldn't bank on it! Bottom line, large Loricariid catfish generally do best in rocky tanks with bogwood and Java Ferns where they can't do too much damage! Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Common Pleco in a planted tank...... - 7/1/08
Thanks Neale,
I was thinking along the same lines as your "bulldozer" idea, regarding the Pleco in a planted tank, the more that I thought about it today. I am thinking that with the setup that I will be having, smaller cleaners are definitely the way to go here. I have to set up another rocky tank anyways. He can stay in that bucket for a bit longer.
Thanks for the info and thoughts on the subject!
Jon
<Hi Jon. For planted tanks, your best bets on the algae-eater front are invertebrates, in particular Nerite snails and algae-eating shrimps such as Neocaridina spp. If you want to supplement these with fish, then go with small Ancistrus spp./Crossocheilus spp. as grazers and perhaps Jordanella floridae for thread algae control. That said, invertebrates on their own do a much better job when used in sufficient numbers. For example, I'd reckon on at least 4 Nerite snails plus 10 Cherry Shrimps per 30-40 litres. Cheers, Neale>

Leporinus vs. Pleco 6/5/08
I recent wrote and had a nice email exchange with Neale. I had been given a couple of banded Leporinus' who date leave my Bala sharks alone. The Leporinus' are about double the size of the Balas who are only six months old. What surprises me is that I had to move my plecostomus to a hospital tank. The Pleco is larger than the Leporinus' and I thought of all fish, he was last I'd need to move. They kept nipping and attacking the poor thing!
<Absolutely typical for Leporinus I'm afraid. Providing a deep cave in which the Plec can hide completely can help, though the catfish will become completely nocturnal if it feels unsure about swimming about during the day.>
Could they be "immune" to the Pleco's dorsal stinger - the area where they kept pecking at)?
<Not aware that any of the Loricariidae actually have stings. While it is true the pectoral and dorsal fin spines are serrated, I don't think they have venom glands.>
The Pleco doesn't show signs of injury and is in a small 10 gal recovery tank alone in the interim for his own safety and relaxation.
<If the Plec is a big one, do check water quality: a 10 gallon tank isn't going to usefully dilute the ammonia produced by a big catfish.>
The Leporinus LOVE to eat peas, and I thought about dropping some tasty ghost shrimp in to see if they like those. Either way, they are quite graceful despite being a larger fish and fun to look at.
<Indeed they are lovely fish, and very opportunistic feeders, and need a mix of greens and animal foods. I've watched them destroy heads of curly lettuce, and don't even think about putting them in a planted tank!>
Skye
<Cheers, Neale.>

Blended tanks 4/30/08
Dear "Crew"
I have been given the opportunity to get a 35g tank and it's inhabitants. I have been reading and trying to figure out how I could best combine these tanks, although I do have plans for the 35g.
I presently have a 125g with:
-small Pleco (not the common Plec),
-a high fin Plec,
-a small school of Corydoras,
-3 yoyo loaches,
-boesemanni rainbows,
-dwarf Neons rainbows
-swords
-platys
-diamond tetras.
-small school for zebra Danios.
The 35g contains:
-2 large Congo tetra
-3 large black skirted tetra
-3 large clown loaches
-1 large plecostomus
I have asked that he try and return the Pleco to the LFS. Was this correct? Can I possibly home him?
<Could be okay in the 125 gallon system -- the small Plec is likely Ancistrus sp., in which case the two will largely ignore each other, provided the Ancistrus has a small cave it has exclusive access to. The high-fin Plec isn't an obviously recognizable species to me, though I'm guessing it's Glyptoperichthys gibbiceps. That fish can be quite territorial, so again, make sure there's plenty of hiding places so this species and the Pterygoplichthys pardalis "common Plec" in the other thank. Loricariids can be tetchy about sharing hiding places. Adult Loricariids are mostly only dangerously aggressive towards their own species, but territorial towards everything else.>
It is my intention to move the Corydoras, dwarf rainbows and the platys to the 35 and put the Congo and black skirt tetras, and clown loaches (I asked, they are 4"long) in my large aquarium. I have been reading about the clown loaches here and at the loaches web site and think they will be fine water wise, apparently get on fine with yoyos, but have some concerns about aggression to some of the others. Can all the tetras tolerate these guys?
<Should do. From my vantage point it's difficult to give a 100% assurance without water quality tests and so on. But I'd expect there to be no problems. You may need to step filtration capacity up though, e.g., by adding another canister filter, so that the additional bio-load is handled.>
And about that Plec.... is it possible for my other two to co-exist in the 33g? In which case I could home the large Plec in the 125? Actually now that I am writing about him, seems to me I have read stories about those large Plecs damaging smaller fishes... like sleeping tetras.
<Plecs very rarely, if ever, eat small fish. There are carnivorous Plecs to be sure, but they eat invertebrates sifted from the mud. If they eat fish, those fish are dead or at least moribund. So when people report their Plec ate a guppy during the night, what they actually observed was the guppy died, and the Plec then ate it.>
Sorry, it is the rescuer in me, cat, dogs and now fish.
<!!!>
If I go to get this tank on Friday should I just put all the original inhabitants back it in for a month and then start moving everybody around? I do not have quarantine room for everybody although he said he has had the clowns for a couple of months but I forgot to ask about the common Plec.
<Should be fine. Perhaps lay in a bottle of Whitespot/Ick remedy (or at least make sure you can buy one at short notice). Clown Loaches are admittedly intolerant of many medications, so do research your options here in terms of suitable brands. Look for formulations safe for "scale-less" fish, or else use half-doses and keep an eye out for unusual behavior.>
I would really appreciate any suggestions on this blended family especially if I have missed something important in my reading.....This seems like a big move to me and I do not want to cause to much strife in my life or that of my current pets.

Thanks so much. I might not even consider this if you were not there to ask.
Aileen

Just wanted to share - Pleco & Yoyo 03/19/2008
Hi everyone at WWM!
<Rachel>
Don't have a question this time around, but I do want to extend another thanks to Andrew for all his help with my SW setup questions.
(unfortunately, my SW tank plans have been bumped by house remodeling? but someday it will be mine!)
<Ahhh!>
Went to feed our current fish (55gal FW community, 55gal brackish, and two happy Bettas) this morning, and was greeted with a scene of our Pleco, who's between 5 and 6 inches, and the smallest of our three Biota almorhae having a ?pow-wow? on top of one of our Greco-Roman tank décor pieces.
<Shades of Lord Elgin!>
I say the smallest of the three yoyos as they were all the same size when we got them in December/January (me and my memory here?), and we now have Big Loach (who's a little over 2 inches now), Middle Loach (just a little smaller), and Little loach, who hasn't grown much at all. He/she hid for quite some time (about a month and a half) after first introducing them to the tank, but is now out pretty much all the time and active, so we're still hoping for the best and keeping a watchful eye on Little.
Attached is a smaller image, with a larger version here on my website.
http://www.realmofsavage.com/images/big_n_little.jpg
I love WWM, and read all the latest FAQs every day. Keep up the great work and I hope to be able to share some SW tank pictures in the nearer future.
=)
Rachel Savage
<Thank you my/our friend. Bob Fenner>

Sick Gouramis... Pleco comp. – 03/07/08
Hello, all.
I've read a great portion of your website, mainly the Q&A section. I have searched in great lengths for problems similar to mine, but to no avail. However, I have gathered a great deal of knowledge about the hobby in general.
<Very good; but please don't think that replaces buying a book! Before you buy a fish, buy a book -- there is so much to learn!>
Apologies in advance, this will most likely be fairly long. Also, I am at great risk of sounding like some kind of *emo freak* as I never imagined I would actually get so attached to fish.

Here goes:
My hobby started with a Christmas gift. A 5 gal tank with built-in filter & light, hex shaped.
<5-gallon tanks are known in the trade as "buckets". They're of no good for keeping fish, and certainly not by beginners.>
Being ambitious and completely ignorant, I filled the tank and promptly added WAY too many fish. 2 Dwarf Gouramis, which died within days of what I have read to be Dwarf Gourami disease (brought on by ammonia poisoning, no doubt) and 5 (yes, ridiculously, 5) Paradise Fish - Blue variety.
<Oops.>
I did a very limited amount of research and learned that for the fish I currently had still living, I needed at least 20gal.
<Not a chance. Paradisefish are mutually aggressive, and males are very much "one to a tank". They will also fight with other similar looking fish, including, I dare say, Gouramis. Paradisefish are not community fish and are never, ever recommended for beginners by sensible aquarists.>
After several fights with the hubby, he finally bought me a 29gal. I filled it, moved the fish in, and started reading about the cycling process. This is when I started to feel like a serial killer. I read that Paradise fish are actually very forgiving in regards to water quality, and if you are going to be cruel enough to cycle with fish, they are ones to use.
<Up to a point this is true, but even hardy fish can be killed by high levels of ammonia and nitrite. That's why you need to have your nitrite and ammonia test kits, and as soon as you detect more than 0.5 mg/l of either, you do a BIG (i.e., 50%) water change. This may well be as often as once a day for the first couple of weeks!>
So, I did frequent small water changes to keep the ammonia and nitrites down, and eventually, the tank cycled. It has been steadily 0 ammonia & nitrites, and low nitrates (10 or less) for at least a month now. All my fish actually did great. I got a black Sailfin Pleco for the algae problem. I read up on them, and saw that they will "suck" on sick or slow fish, but mine seem to be active and very quick.
<The Sailfin Plec is likely Pterygoplichthys pardalis or similar. These are HUGE fish and require tanks 55 gallons upwards. Completely unsuitable for this system. In any case, they have no positive impact on algae. Think about it for just one second: algae grows when the water has fertiliser added, i.e., nitrogenous wastes from the fish. Add more fish, the water is more fertile, and the algae grows faster. Add a huge catfish, and even though it's eating algae, it is also eating catfish pellets and vegetables, so will be making the water much more fertile. It's a case of one step forwards and seventeen steps backwards. There are only TWO ways to control algae: use lots of fast-growing plants, or use elbow grease and a scraper. There is nothing else. Nada. Nix. Nyet. Non. Nein.>
Then... got up one morning, and one of my females looked like she was missing scales. She was still acting normally, so I added some Melafix, as it supposed to help with missing scales and Finrot.
<I'm not impressed with Melafix. Because it's cheap and "New Age" people buy into it, but it isn't any more effective than any other cheap, New Age medication.>
It only got worse from there. When I got home that evening, it was an open (almost looked to bleeding) wound. I searched the internet, and closest thing I could find was AEROMONAS (hole in the side disease).
<Hole-in-the-Head is not caused by Aeromonas bacteria. These are different syndromes. Almost certainly you're dealing with a plain vanilla Aeromonas infection, what on a human would be considered sepsis. The skin is damaged, and otherwise harmless Aeromonas bacteria get into the wound and cause serious problems. Long term: death through blood poisoning. Use something like Maracyn or eSHa 2000 to treat.>
It seems, though, that this is more commonly associated with wild or farm fish.
<No, the problem here is more than likely physical injury and/or poor water quality. I hear what you say about the good water quality stats, but the overwhelming experience of most newbie aquarists is variable to poor water quality, e.g., by overfeeding, under-filtering, or overstocking. So take a conservative approach, and assume the worst case scenario.>
I moved her to the 5gal (now hospital tank, also cycled) and tried feeding her anti-bacterial food (soaked and broken up first). She wouldn't touch it, and developed dropsy that night. She was dead the next morning.

Next was one of the males. I tried parasite treatment on him. Dropsy, and died within a day.
<When masses of fish die for seemingly random reasons, the problem is 99.99999% likely water quality, water chemistry, or poisons. So: check water quality, and do a 50% water change daily until thing settle down. As for water chemistry, check the pH isn't fluctuating wildly. Fish are somewhat tolerant of the "wrong" pH and hardness relative to what they prefer, but what they can't abide is changing water chemistry. Finally, consider poisons. Things like paint fumes can quickly kill fish. Small children are apt to dump things in fish tanks, so it's important to make sure that doesn't happen.>
Now my second female has a hole on either side of her body, well behind her gills, mid-body. Also - a large hole, as if something is eating away at her, on her anal fin. it is near her tail. She is now in the hospital tank, and I ordered Maracyn Two, which is on the third day of treatment, and no change, only getting worse.
<Stop moving the fish to the 5 gallon tank. Pointless. Such a tank is a death trap itself. Treat the whole tank with Maracyn. Be aggressive with water changes (big, often). Study water chemistry and quality closely. Above all: DO NOT FEED the fish.>
One of the males left in the main tank now has a hole in his side, and the other has a hole in his anal fin, in the same exact location as the female. I have tried to take photos, and they just WILL NOT hold still long enough.
If they won't eat the anti-bacterial food, and the Maracyn doesn't help, then I am at a loss. The girl in the hospital tank is developing fungus, and I don't want to treat for the fungus while still using the Maracyn, in case there would be a reaction.
I am afraid that they are developing secondary problems due to all the HORRIBLE water conditions I subjected them to. If this is the case, do they stand a chance at all?
<If you do precisely what I say, yes, some should recover, assuming any Finrot (for that's the issue) is limited to superficial tissues. But if the body cavity is infected, then realistically, no, the fish aren't likely to survive.>
Just a mention - the sick female (now in hospital tank) was being harassed by the Pleco. He would attach to her, and she would shake him off, but he probably did the most harm while I was sleeping and could not monitor. Is it possible this is what is happening to the other? I can't imagine the Pleco would decide to attach to the anal fin, though??
<Obviously this Plec needs to go back to the pet store. This is non-negotiable. How, why it is sucking onto the fish is largely academic (though I imagine it is hungry because you are not providing the foods it needs).>
OK, I drew a rough image with Paint, which looks like a child created (hence the file name "kindergarten fish") showing the same location all fish are developing the hole in their sides and fins.
<Yikes!>
I never dreamed I would feel so bad over fish, but they are part of family now, and I really don't want to lose them. What can I possibly do??
<Read, learn, understand.>
Thank you much,
Jiffy
<Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Gourami/Paradisefish problems – 03/07/08
Thank you, Neale, for your speedy response.
<You're welcome.>
It seems my worst fears are realized and I have done unrepairable damage to most of my fishy friends. :(
<Quite possibly.>
Emo = emotional basket case, which is what my hubby and most my friends think of me when I go on and on about saving my fish.

As of tonight, the 5-day Maracyn treatment will be completed in the 5 gal, and the girl is not doing any better. The reason I have been moving them is because the other fish seem to realize who is weak and pick on them.
<Oh dear.>
Since the treatment did not work on her, I will treat the remaining 2 (sadly, both males - maybe I need a tank separator) in the large tank.
<Does sound a short term solution, at least.>
The Pleco was purchased with the understanding that it would eventually be returned, upon aggression or growing to large for the tank, so he can easily be returned to the pet store. Once he cleaned the tank, I started feeding the sinking algae disks when I turned off the lights, and witnessed him eating voraciously. I have read that they attack sickly fish, and suspect this is the case here.
<Loricariid catfish are classic opportunists (like humans) and they will have a go at whatever seems edible. That's their ecological niche. While they rarely, if ever, cause problems in tanks with healthy fish... in tanks where fish are dropping like flies, I dare say even the best behaved Plec isn't above taking advantage of the situation.>
How long should I not feed? A couple days? the duration of the Maracyn treatment?
<The latter at minimum. Fish can last a week without food, and after that week, feed small amounts once per day. No more.>
Finally, what book(s) would you suggest? I will gladly purchase and read anything that will help me to better care for my fish.
<Many, many choices. Go visit your local bookstore, and have a browse. Look for something published reasonably recently so that it is up to date in of filters, medications, etc. Don't be dazzled with pretty pictures -- some aquarium books that are "coffee table" type books look lovely to look at, but thin on information. Pick something that clearly explains about filters, water chemistry, disease and so on. If it has a section on community fish, listing their water chemistry needs, preferred temperature, social behaviour and diet then so much the better. You can use that to decide what fish you want to get next. But right now your need isn't for a book containing hundreds of fish or advanced topics like plants or cichlids; you want something focusing on the foundations of the hobby. Master them, and the rest of the hobby is pretty straightforward.>
Thank you so much for your expertise,
Jiffy
<Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Discus Fish System, Loricariid comp. 2/25/08
Neale/Crew of WWM,
<Hello,>
Thank you for the quick answer once again.
I have two more questions:
As far as the Discus go, I've read in many places that they aren't good to mix with, say, a common Pleco, because there's the possibility they will eat the slime coat off the discus.
<Correct; doesn't always happen, but happens sufficiently often.>
However, certain ones that stay on the smaller side and aren't too active would be okay. I really like the Gold-Nugget Plecos and have read they only get to be 5-6 inches or so. How would this work?
<Baryancistrus sp. L018 could be okay, and does like quite warm water, which meshes nicely with what Symphysodon wants. But regardless: keep an eye on things, and act accordingly.>
Second, I've been reading a lot about filtration (still...) and currently have a Penguin Bio Wheel filter.. rated for 30 gallons. Obviously this will not be sufficient for the 55 gallon alone. I have two choices I'm kicking back and forth: an Aqua Clear 50 HOB filter, for about $45, or an Eheim Ecco 2232 which is rated at 127 gph for a 35 gallon tank for $89. (or another brand/model...) Is the canister filter worth the extra money here?
<Yes.>
My concern is in regard to the build of nitrates (yes, I do realize they will build in all mech. filters and have to be changed).
<Nitrate build-up in canister filters may well be an issue, but with proper maintenance it shouldn't happen. Actually, "your mileage may vary" -- I know people keeping very successful reef tanks that use canister filters they clean only once or twice a year! The benefit of canister filters is the generous water turnover and the option for useful selections of media. Hang-on-the-back filters come with these stupid "cartridge" modules that contain useless junk like carbon and zeolite. While great for the manufacturers and retailers, they're a waste of space for freshwater aquarists. What you want is a filter with empty modules into which you can put good-quality media like Siporax as well as filter wool that can be changed as often as required (which will be OFTEN in a planted tank.>
Thanks a lot for the help!
Eric
<Cheers, Neale.>

Re: Discus Fish System; filter options, and catfish -02/25/08
Good day,
Thank you for the answer in regard to the Pleco and the filter. I will definitely keep an eye out for any harmful interactions. I did hear that the discus actually 'like' the slime coat-action? (Even though it's not good for them) Interesting..

As for the filter: the AquaClear 50 is rated at 200 gph, while the Ecco Canister is rated for 127 gph. I guess I'm confused as how the latter would be more flow?
<In theory then the 200 gph filter would be better. But my experience of hang-on-the-back filters is that they are less good at cleaning solid wastes from the bottom of the tank. They're also less flexible in terms of media options, though that varies. In any case choose whichever you prefer, provided the 4x volume of the tank in turnover per hour is observed.>
Is that because the canister is more efficient, or the design?
<Canisters are more flexible in terms of options and accessories, but if you place one under the tank it actually is less efficient in terms of turnover than a hang-on filter at water level (because the canister now has to work against gravity).>
The AquaClear also has different options for media, and I can use the pre-made 'bags' for pretty much anything.
<The bags are often pretty rubbish. Anything pre-packaged does so to extract more money for less stuff. Nothing sold to consumers breaks this law.>
I do think part of my hesitation (besides that which is listed above) is because I am familiar w/ the AquaClear, while I've never used a Canister before.
<Almost all experienced freshwater aquarists migrate from hang-on filters and internal filters to external canister filters. They are just better value and more flexible. Of course, you're free to do whatever you want, so long as the basic rules are observed.>
One last question (I promise): what about noise levels? I have read favorable things in regard to quality, longevity, etc. etc. about the Ecco (and entire Eheim line, for that matter) but there's not much in regard to how noisy it will be; in relation to the AquaClear.
<Canister filters can be noisy if they get air bubbles inside them, but are generally silent when up and running properly.>
Thanks again,
E
<Cheers, Neale.>

Pleco question... hlth... aggr. damage? – 02/07/08
Hello Neale,
I've been big fan of your answers on WWM for long time. Excellent job,
THANK YOU.
<Very kind of you to say so.>
I have a question about my leopard Pleco L085.
<Do we really me L85? L85 is Baryancistrus sp. "Gold Nugget Plec", whereas Pterygoplichthys pardalis is one of the (several) species called "Leopard Plec" in the trade. I'm going to assume you mean the Gold Nugget Plec.>
It is currently in 55 g tank with 2 Severums and 2 blood parrots. (I know you don't like them, but I have them, enjoying them and taking care of them).
<It's not that I have something against Blood Parrots, they're just not my taste. Like fancy Goldfish and Pit Bull Terriers. I'm sure they're lovely pets. Just not for me!>
Pleco had been in the tank for about 10 months and it's about 6 inches long.
My water parameters:
Temp-80'C
pH-8.0
NH3-0
NO2-0
NO3-10-25ppm (50% water change/week)
<All sounds fine, though very slightly warmer than I'd tend to keep them. There's no real advantage to temperatures above 25C/77F for most tropical fish, and indeed some positive disadvantages (faster metabolism, less oxygen in the water). But if this works for you, then great.>
Food:
Frozen food for algae eaters (I think you know what it is)-4 times/week
<Actually have no idea! But sounds useful!>
Algae wafers- 1 every night
Fresh vegetables-occasionally
I also have big peace of wood in the tank.
<I would mix this up a little; Baryancistrus spp. are omnivores rather than herbivores, and appreciate things like bloodworms, chopped seafood, even the odd bit of whitebait. That said, most fish seem to thrive on good quality algae wafers (such as Hikari Algae Wafers), and my Synodontis pretty much eat nothing else.>
Problem is that my Pleco is only fish in the tank who very often has torn fins and tail. (Could it be due to occasional fight for space and food with my parrots?)
<Hmm... could indeed be scuffling with the cichlids. But don't rule out [a] water quality issues and [b] heater burns (catfish are wont to lie against heaters if that seems a good hiding place). So check these other issues as well. In any even, giving the catfish a nice burrow where the other fish can't harass it should fix this. Clay pipes and flowerpots are ideal. Get one big enough for the cat, but not for the cichlids. Problem solved hopefully, as the catfish will basically stay completely out of sight while the lights are on.>
Also very often it has big gray spots all over the body. These spots disappeared when Pleco start swimming or eating. But when it is just lay down on the gravel it all covered with these spots and fish looks terrible.
<No idea what this could be. If we're saying it changes colour from yucky to nice depending on whether it's swimming, that's one thing. But if we're looking at patches of dead skin or something that come off when the fish moves, that's another issue entirely. Really need a picture to understand this. It's also worth mentioning that the adults do somewhat lose their contrast as they mature. This is pretty normal with Loricariids, especially the ones with white spots on a black background. It's very obvious on Ancistrus, for example.>
I tried to find any info about this in the web with no luck.
Your help would be appreciated.
Thank you again,
Mark
<Hope this helps, but honestly am a bit mystified. Cheers, Neale.>

Question Regarding Plecos 8/19/07
Keeping More Than One Pleco Per Tank
Hi WWM Crew, I have what I hope is a quick question regarding Bushy Nose Plecos. I purchased an albino Bushy Nose Pleco (~1 - 1.5") a couple of months ago and it is doing quite well. I have plenty of algae in the tank and this little guy is always busy working the plants, driftwood etc ... I would love to add at least 1 or 2 more Bushy Noses (not necessarily Albinos) to my tank. However, I am pretty sure that I read somewhere that you shouldn't/can't have more than 1 Pleco in your tank. Not sure what the reason was, but I thought I'd get your opinion before I go out looking for additional livestock. It can't be size since this species only grow to about 4". This is why I chose this species in the first place. By the way, are there any other South American Plecos (they will be living with my Discus) that don't grow too large (> 4")? Thank you in advance for your assistance - again! Regards, Neil D'Ambrosio Jackson, NJ
< Plecos tend to be a little bit territorial. This means that they will usually try and chase another Pleco away but this usually doesn't result in any serious harm to either fish. The biggest problem is getting enough food for these fish to eat. I would supplement the tank with algae wafers if you are going to be adding more fish. There are hundreds of Pleco species. Usually the clown pleco's stay around 2 inches or so. Otocinclus species are very small and very peaceful too. Go to planetcatfish.com and check out all the pleco's.-Chuck>

Crab Eating Plec or is it Plec Eating Crab? - 10/21/2006
I have a rather large common-sail fin cross Pleco that is showing signs of discoloration and his armor it starting to stick out. I have tried krill shrimp to boost his color I have treated with a medication made for many illnesses including parasites and scaling. I even tried feeding him algae wafers. I am all out of options. I have seen that one of my fiddlers is missing can a Pleco eat a fiddler by accident if so can this make him sick? He is a male. I was also wondering if I need to get him a mate or another larger Pleco. I have tiny tot the baby Pleco, it is the same breed as he is, which by the way is fat and happy. I did put my Bettas in the tank with him while I cleaned their tank and the female is a bit more aggressive than the male which made them chase each other and the female beta did challenge big boy. Could they of stressed him out? I feel I am running out of options he's not even full growth potential yet, he's supposed to get up to 18 inches and he's only 10 could it be old age he is a rescue fish from a lady that didn't want him anymore. Do I need to get him more tank mates? Please help in stuck up the creek without a paddle... and need as much help as I can get.
<It may be that a bit of crab shell is the underlying problem. Bloating is usually caused by either constipation or an infection. If this is a blockage, and he's still eating, you can try some fresh or frozen veggies. Shelled raw peas work well to get things moving. If he's not eating you can try adding Epsom Salt to his water. One heaping tablespoon per 5 gallons of water. For an internal infection medicated flake is called for. But only if he's eating. Internal infections that progress to a point where the fish is not eating are very difficult to treat. In that case your best chance is keeping his water pristine with very frequent (daily), and very large (50%), water changes and crossing your fingers that his immune system will kick the bug. I doubt a three inch Betta stressed out a ten inch Pleco. Also, there are no crabs that can live a full life in freshwater. So no more crabs, OK? Don>
This is the edited copy I am sorry I sent it before I checked last time I hope this is better on your eyes.
<Thank you!>

Plecos and Plants - 09/02/06
Dear WetWebMedia, I have recently acquired two good sized dwarf Panaque a flash l204 and Panaque albomaculatus LDA31. I have two questions to ask firstly is frozen shrimp and meaty food like that correct? I have a large 450 ltr tank consisting of a rainbow school, also I keep a few doras, flag cats and some other l numbers as well as a greedy elephant nose. I'm worried the Panaques will not get to the food before everything else has got there, do you have any tips to get the food to them? And the second question is that do either fish pose a serious problem to a planted tank? My tank is mainly java fern and a good African tiger lotus specimen that I don't want to loose, also some Aponogeton plants.
< Go to planetcatfish.com. Try to identify your Plecos based on the info you have and what they look like. From their they will give lots of good info about what your Plecos eat and how to keep them. Many Plecos are nocturnal, so feed them just after you turn out the lights should make it easier for them to feed.-Chuck>
Best Regards and Thanks for any advice you can give.
Ben

Blind Pleco 7/25/06
Hi WWM Crew, I have kind of an odd problem. I have a tank with a couple African Cichlids and a "common Pleco" for cleaning purposes. I noticed today he looked a little different, and coaxed him out in the open to discover that where his eye used to be was a hole. I found the same on the other side. The holes are perfectly round and don't show any other signs of damage or infection. What could have caused this? All my other fish are fine. Will the Pleco have any quality of life, or should I "put him out of his misery"? Thanks so much for the help. Chris
< The African cichlids have fed on the eyes of your Pleco. He will be fine as long as he can find some food on the bottom of the tank. Not much to look at though.-Chuck>

Otocinclus and Comet DON'T MIX! EMERGENCY 07/21/06
Hi, love your website, thanks for it, but I have a huge problem!!
<<Hi, back. You're welcome. Let's see what we can do. (Tom here, by the way.)>>
I woke up today to find my Comet munching on my Otocinclus! Actually, what I mean by that is that the Oto was lodged in his mouth with about 25% of it sticking out. He doesn't appear to be choking because he is still breathing.
<>
I got two new Oto's a couple days ago and since then they've both been lethargic with clamped fins, each was tiny, 1 inched guys and my Comet (Harry, don't ask) is about 4 inches long excluding his tail. He's always been greedy and
I think what happened is the Oto died and the Comet finally could catch him and did.
<<Not unusual for Goldfish to do this. They tend to be "opportunistic" feeders and your Oto gave Harry the chance he was waiting for...unfortunately.>>
No search engines helped me at all!
<<In fairness, it's not the typical inquiry.>>
At this point, Harry is moving slowly and keeps sucking or blowing his mouth, I can't tell which. This is a major problem and one way or another might solve itself before you answer back, but right now my main concern is lack of ability to eat or transfer air in the swim bladder, and of course lodging it in more and choking!
<<As long as he's moving water over his gills, he's not "choking". He may not be very comfortable but he won't suffocate.>>
Just in case he lives and for future references please help! I tried using metal tongs and I grabbed the protruding tail but I couldn't get it out, I'm sort of nervous of pulling too hard. How do I dislodge it, or can he digest the head soon enough and eventually pass it through?? (I seriously doubt it though.)
<<I seriously doubt it, too. Goldfish are primarily "vegetarians". Their systems aren't developed for dining on other fish. Likely the dorsal rays are getting caught in Harry's mouth as you try to pull the demised Oto out. You might try twisting the Oto one way, or another, to get the rays to "release".>>
And should I remove my other Otocinclus and my (very lively and quick) Algae eater?
<<First, if by "Algae Eater", you're referring to a common Plecostomus, I wouldn't worry about this. Harry isn't likely to be interested in a "lively and quick" tankmate. My concern here, without getting on a soapbox, is that many Otos are "captured" in the wild by the use of cyanide. I have no direct knowledge of these fish being bred in farms, though it's entirely possible that they are. In any event, the fact that both of yours showed signs of lethargy and clamped fins indicates, to me, that it's possible that they were taken with cyanide, a chemical that will, unfortunately, stay in their systems. Otos, regretfully, show an inordinate amount of "infant mortality", meaning that they often die within hours, or days, of being introduced into the tank. Fish that feed on the dead fish are going to be ingesting cyanide if the deceased fish contain this in their bodies. My recommendation is to get the Oto out of Harry's mouth regardless of what it takes and remove the other Oto from the tank. Easier said than done, I know, but you must do this.>>
Thank you for your time, and sorry my email is so long. This is my first major goldfish problem and I'm very anxious.
<<Not to worry. You're more than welcome and I completely understand. Tom>>

Pleco and Goldfish, good idea?... generally not 6/13/06
I am owner of a 55 gallon tank, which uses two Emperor 400 Bio-Wheel Filtration systems. These are a necessity, due to the 13 inch long-finned goldfish
<A whopper!>
I have, whose superior filthiness remains over my tank. Recently, about a month ago, I purchased a Plecostomus to help deal with the filtration of algae. This
worked wonders for the tank environment, the walls clearly transparent, and the gravel much cleaner, however, the Plecostomus started to push around my goldfish.
<Yes>
Now, the Plecostomus is no more than 5 inches, and is no where near the size of my goldfish, and yet my goldfish does not show any aggression, and
he does not even move away from his hostile attacker. The Plecostomus swims under the goldfish, and chases him around, I fear this simple aggression could
lead to the serious injury of my prized goldfish.
<You are correct>
 I have read a variety of things to do, such as remove the Plecostomus right away, leave it be, monitor it, feed it algae disks, and the only one I have yet to try is to remove it.
<This is what I would do>
I am scared, that the Plecostomus will be overly stressed, and die from our lack of proper temporary tanks in which to house our little beast. Our last resort, it to have the Plecostomus spend the night in a 4 gallon bucket with no filtration. I really do not want to subject my Plecostomus to conditions like these, but I Will if I have to. I will most likely return him to the Petco where I bought him, but I don't want him to be killed either. I would much appreciate some tips and/or guidance. Thank you for your time and consideration in
this matter.
Thank you,
 Chelsea R.
<Unfortunately, most Plecostomus/Loricariid species sold in the trade are incompatible with Goldfish... too often "suck" on their bodies... dangerously removing body slime, sometimes more. Better to use large, non-asexual species of snails as cleaner-uppers with most goldfish systems. Bob Fenner>

Big Plecos In A Community Tank 5/26/06
Hi, Great Site! I have a bit of a problem, and figure you guys can help me out.
I have a 55 gallon aquarium with a cascade filter Rated at 75 gallons) heater, plants, eco complete, light, etc. Would it be ok to keep 3 common Plecos (8", 6", and 4"), 6 cardinal tetras, 4 lemon tetras, several Cory cats, 4: 4" killie fish, and 2 smaller tiger clown Plecos, and 6 Rams in this 55 gallon tank?
< Go with everything except the two larger Plecos. They will dominate the bottom of the tank and make life very tough on the other fish.>
PLEASE NOTE: These are fish I have already (in separate tanks) I know this sounds like an odd assortment, but I am trying to, umm... what's the right word
here... condense my collection. If this is not ok, please tell me the minimum tank size in which I can keep these three Plecos.
<There are hundreds of different species of Plecos. Go to planetcatfish.com and search for your Pleco to determine the total size. They will also have tank recommendations too. Some of the more common Plecos can get very big.>
Also, at what temperature should this assortment be kept?
< Somewhere between 76 to 82 f would be fine. The rams prefer it on the high end.>
BASICALLY, I am asking if 3 large Plecos will be ok to keep with smaller tetras/cichlids!?
< Too much disruption from the larger fish.-Chuck>
Thanks in advance!!! Anthony

Plecos For A Lake Malawi Cichlid Tank 5/9/06
Hi Crew, I have 5 Malawi cichlid tanks and cleaning algae has almost become a full time job. My LFS suggested adding Plecos and I narrowed my choice down to Queen Arabesques. I chose these because I didn't want plant eaters nor did I want Plecos that would outgrow my tanks like the common Plecos that reach 24".
When I went to pick up my Queen Arabesques I noticed some beautiful King Tigers and decided to go with 2 King Tigers and one Queen Arabesque, one for each of my 3 largest tanks. Right now they are in my quarantine tank and my question to you is regarding pH. Here is my dilemma: Malawi cichlids are usually kept in a PH of 7.8 - 8.2. I've read Queen Arabesques do best in a of 7.6 or less. After purchasing the King Tigers I read online that their max PH should be 7.2. I wonder if this is true as Queen Arabesques are closely related and come from the same region. My LFS told me the Plecos would adjust to the higher cichlid ppm. This even suggested I take them from the LFS water (6.8 - 7.0 PH) and place them right in my 8.2 PH tanks that very same day after slowly adding tank
water to their bag water over a period of several hours. I didn't think such a drastic shift in PH was a good idea, and I had planned to quarantine them anyway, so I placed them in QT (where they have been 3 days) with a pH of 7.2. My plan has been to slowly raise the pH over the course of 2 weeks. Now I'm questioning whether I made the right decision choosing these Plecos, and whether the higher pH will have long term negative side effects for them. Could a happy medium be found by lowering the pH slightly in the cichlid
tanks to 7.6 or 7.8? Or would this cause problems for the cichlids, as well? Please advise. If I've made a poor choice in buying these Plecos, I can always return them
to the LFS. Cindy
< Many Lake Malawi cichlids eat algae. To reduce algae growth I would check the nitrates and try to keep them under 25 ppm with water changes and by vacuuming the gravel. As far as placing Plecos with Lake Malawi cichlids you have four problems. First is aggression. These cichlids are very territorial and will defend their areas using their sharp teeth. The fins and eyes will be attacked and the Plecos will be forced to hide most of the time. Second is temperature. Lake Malawi cichlids prefer to be kept in the mid to upper 70's F. Your Plecos come from the Rio Toucatins where the water is up to 82 to 84 F. Third is the pH. The cichlids can handle a pH in the 7's but they will not show much color. Any higher than that will stress the kidneys of your Plecos and they may become weak and sick over time. Last is the diet. I am not overly convinced that these Plecos even eat algae. Many of these Plecos eat invertebrates, wood, and plants too. Check out their diet at Planetcatfish.com.-Chuck>

Bushynose Pleco With Goldfish 12/05/2005
Good day. I hear a lot about the compatibility of fancy goldfish and Ancistrus temminckii and how it's usually a good match. But what about all catfish within the Ancistrus family? I saw a catfish sold as "mini pointed Ancistrus" at my LFS and I was told all within the family have the same behavior. In other words, my fat (in a nice way) and very slow moving lionhead Oranda and calico Oranda should have nothing to fear. What are your thoughts on this family and their compatibility with fancy goldfish in general? Thanks a bunch! Ted
< Go to planetcatfish.com and check out the new Pleco you are planning to buy. See if the water conditions are compatible with goldfish. Not all Plecos in the genus Ancistrus have the same requirements.-Chuck>

Rubber lipped Pleco in a 10 gallon tank? 10/16/05
Greetings! Three days ago I bought a rubber lipped Pleco for my 10 gallon tank.
<... too small...>
I have had two zebra danios and one angelfish
<... way too small...>
in the tank for about 18 months now. Even with weekly 1/3 water changes
<... too much...>
the algae is barely under control so I thought a Pleco would be a cute and helpful addition.
<No>
Unhappily, s/he died today! The Pleco seemed fine, bright-eyed and swimming about a bit when not hiding, but then this afternoon s/he abruptly died. I am so discouraged that I am wondering whether I should try again with another or give up the idea of adding an algae-feeder to my tank.
<Not this type... needs more room as do most of its family... Loricariidae>
I don't want to harm my current fish by introducing any diseases, and hope I haven't done so already. I've decided to feed the fish less and have the tank light on less in an effort to reduce the algae.
<Good approaches>
I would greatly appreciate your thoughts on whether those changes should be sufficient or whether I should try another rubber lipped Pleco (or other small algae eater).
Regards, Mary
<Umm, those (not often lucid) ideas archived here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwalgcontrol.htm and the linked files above... where you lead yourself. Bob Fenner>

Re: Rubber lipped Pleco in a 10 gallon tank? 10/17/05
Bob,
<Mary>
Thank you for the input. I'm looking on Craigslist for a larger tank, maybe a 35 or 46 gallon.
<<Isn't Craigslist great? MH>>
<Ahh, much better>
That might be a better size for my current fish and give me a chance to get a few more fish once everything settles down, cycles, etc. Maybe even a Pleco!
<Oh, yes!>
Thanks again,
Mary
<Excelsior my friend! Bob Fenner>

Plecos and Goldfish 9/26/05
Hiya. I've recently started a coldwater aquarium with a two fantail goldfish and a four danios (they have been in there for a couple of weeks). I love plecs and would like to have one. Will a Plec get along with my other fish? Also, can he be put in now or do I have to wait longer to let the tank build up good bacteria? Many thanks.
Rach
<Not a good mix in most cases. It's not a matter of aggression, but of water conditions and temperature. Goldfish like cool water, 65 to 70 degrees. They produce a lot of ammonia in their waste. Plecos are tropical and need a temperature near 80 to thrive. They also produce a lot of ammonia. So the tank would have to be fairly large to dilute the waste. But even then, their is no good way around the temperature problem. 73 to 74 may work for both, but is perfect for neither. Don>

Mixing Plecos and Goldfish
Hi WWM, Hope you can give me some advice as I'm fairly new to keeping plecs although I have kept fancy goldfish for quite a few years. I read a question from someone else who seemed to be losing plecs after a very short time. I've also had this problem. After they have seemed healthy I suddenly find they have died with no apparent symptoms. I also had heard that when using treatments for coldwater fish that dosages have to be altered if you have plecs in the tank. I also have 2 tiny Ramshorn snails & wondered if you could advise me of any precautions I should take when using treatments. Many thanks in advance.
Lisa
<Very generally speaking dosages should be cut in half when dealing with most types of catfish. IMO most plecs are starved to death. They must be target fed at night or they will not get their share of the food. Rubber band a piece of zucchini or shrimp to a rock and add it just before you go to bed. But I'm more concerned that you are keeping goldfish and plecs together. Goldfish do best in cool water. They thrive between 65 and 70 degrees. Plecs are tropical and require much warmer temps. I keep all my Pleco tanks between 82 and 86 degrees. I'm afraid you are in for many problems with this mix. Don>

Cichlids and Pleco's
Hi Bob, My roommate was given a 50 gallon tank with 3 African Cichlids (one being very large and very dominant - always chases the others around). A friend of mine gave me a large Plecostomus and I added him to the tank today. I am a bit worried though. The Plecostomus just sits on the wall and the large African Cichlid comes over and snaps at it's eyes and tail constantly. Will they get use to each other and knock it off or should I find a new home for the Pleco? Thanks!
< Plecos usually come out a night when the cichlids are asleep. Get him a hollow log or s cave for him to hide in during the day. The cichlids should leave him alone after that.-Chuck>

Bristlenose vs. goldies?
Hi, guys! I've read up on the various opinions on mixing fancy goldfish with Plecos. The general consensus with regards to the 'regular' store bought Plecos is simply don't mix. From personal experience, I can also attest to this.
<Often they start to "ride" the goldfish... not good>
However, I've read there is one particular exception with the Bristlenose Pleco. Apparently, this whiskered-barbed wonders don't really have a tendency chase and munch on the goldfish slime.

What are your thoughts on this mix? FYI, I have a 60 gallon with 2 weather/dojo loaches and 4 four-inch fancy goldfish (calico, lionhead calico, black moor and redcap Oranda). Thanks!
Ted
<Worth trying. Bob Fenner>

Subject: leopard Pleco and royal Pleco best friends?
Hello me again. I am setting up a new 110 gallon tank and was wondering if I could put a leopard Pleco (Pterygoplichthys gibbiceps) and a royal Pleco (Panaque nigrolineatus) could be put together in the same tank because I know Plecos belonging to the subfamily Panaque are aggressive to each other.
<Mmm, am inclined to dissuade you from this mix... but actually don't know how well these two Loricariids would get along... In all the years I retailed the more popular Panaque we kept them one to a tank as adults... If the system were big enough I guess you could try them together... observe if there is much negative interaction... I doubt if there would be much damage with these highly armored cats in a short trial. Bob Fenner>

A Little Freshwater Carnage 2.27.05
Hi, we're new to the whole aquarium life, and have a 30 gallon freshwater tank with 7 cichlids and one algae eater who we call Homer.
<Hello, Ryan helping you out today.>
Not sure if there are different varieties of them, but ours is brown and bumpy, and about 4 inches long. About a month ago, we noticed that the cichlids were picking on Homer, and then, much to our disgust and amazement, realized that his actual eyeball had been taken out of its socket!
<That's pretty gory!>
We immediately put him into a separate sick box where he could safely recover. After a week of separation from the others, Homer was put back into the tank and seemed to be getting along well with one eye. Today he got wedged between the coral and a ship in the tank, and we noticed that his good eye had been scratched. We were gone for most of the day, and upon returning home, realized that his other eye has now been taken out as well. He's in the sick tank once again, but we're really concerned for his well being once he's healed up enough to be released back in with the others.
<Not a great idea...I would take him back to the pet store, and start managing the nutrients more aggressively to impede algae growth.>
Have you ever heard of this, and what are his chances of living with no eyes? We realize that the cichlids are aggressive fish, but is this a normal occurrence, and how do we prevent it from happening again in the event that we need to replace Homer? We're desperate for any information you can provide.
<It breaks down like this: Cichlids, with some exceptions, are aggressive and territorial. You're keeping these fish in a small enclosure- This much water in nature would be just a piece of ONE fish's territory. So, natural war will be ongoing with this selection. Now, a 30 gallon tank is great for single species tanks, or less "touchy" tenants. I'd figure out what species of fish you're keeping, and then make a few changes. Good luck! Ryan>

Better Safe Than Sorry
<Hi! Ryan with you!>
I was just wondering if goldfish and Plecostomus could live peacefully together. I have seen websites that say yes, and others that say no they can't. I just have 2 regular goldfish, who are extremely active and very healthy, so I didn't think it would be a problem, I just wanted an expert opinion. Thanks:)
<When I first started with goldfish I kept them with a Pleco- and eventually suffered considerable losses. It's Russian roulette, but because of disease. Goldfish carry SO many diseases that tropical fish will eventually contract. It may work for some time, but I would avoid this. Much better tankmates for a Pleco or a goldfish, in my opinion. Hope this helps>

No More Black Moor
Greetings!
<Hello>
Your web site it quite informative and very useful. <great> I have a question for you. I have a 10 gallon tank with currently 5 goldfishes in it.
<too many goldfish, you want about 10 gallons per fish. Oh wait, that was not the question, sorry.>
My black moor goldfish died last week so I went and got one yesterday. I put it in the tank and it seemed to be ok. However, this morning it was dead, and I am wondering if the Pleco (algae eating fish) attacked it. The reason for this is that all of the black moors scales were missing, and it's tail looked really raggedy. I watched the tank for a while, and I know that the other goldfish was not attacking it. Have you ever heard of anything like this? Looking forward to your answer soon!
<I have seen some aggressive Plecos, but they usually keep to themselves. I am willing to bet this fish was picked over after it died, probably by everyone in the tank. First thing I would do is some water tests to see if those indicate any problems. Best Regards, Gage>
BV =^.^=

Plec for an Oscar tank
Dear wealth of knowledge,
I have a 75g freshwater tank which is currently empty. I am thinking about purchasing either 2 red Oscars or 1 red Oscar and 1 tiger Oscar. My question for you guys is what my options for a "clean-up" Pleco are, keeping in mind tank size.
<I assume by "clean-up" you want something to eat algae, right? This in mind, I'd suggest the royal Plecostomus, Panaque nigrolineatus http://www.planetcatfish.com/catelog/loricari/panaque/151_f.htm . This is a pretty good grazing Plec, and should do a number on algae; will likely need to be supplemented with greens (like blanched zucchini, for one). It'll also require driftwood, without a doubt. And might be a bad choice for a Plexiglas tank, as they have teeth that'll wreak havoc on plexi, leaving scratches.>
I also wanted to know a little about freshwater (red tail) barracudas. I have found it a little difficult to find info on them. I am wondering about tank size, compatibility, and how prone it is to disease. Thanks a lot! Zack
<Do you happen to have a Latin name for this guy? Right now, I'm inclined to think you mean "Acestrorhynchus falcatus". Try looking this up on fishbase.org, and do a google search on this name to see what info you can get. Wishing you well, -Sabrina>

Smallest Pleco for Algae
Hello. I have a small (30 gal) tank with a few cichlids in it and need something to take care of the algae that is quickly building. Until the cichlids were full size, I had a couple Chinese Algae Eaters in there and they worked great. Well, all at once, they both got eaten so it's time for a change. I was considering a Bristlenose Pleco, but is there something else I should consider that stays small, eats lots of algae, and won't get eaten by my cichlids? I've been kind of anti-Plecos since discovering how much waste they produce so I'm hoping if I get one that stays small, they won't produce much waste. At least, that's the theory.
Thanks for all your help and your great site.
-Mike in BFE Illinois (p.s. This is the Cubs' year!)
>>Dear Mike: What kind of cichlids are you keeping in the 30g? I ask because a 30g is a tad small for many cichlids, as they will be far more aggressive in smaller tanks. Which makes me wonder if you will put into jeopardy any new species you might add. Also, how often do you do partial water changes? High toxin levels will also make your fish act aggressively towards tankmates that in other circumstances they would ignore. That said, I think you are better off with the Bristlenoses, anyways. They are the best choice for your tank. -Gwen

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