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FAQs on Systems for Loricariids, South and Central American Suckermouth
Cats
Related Articles: Loricariids, Otocinclus, From
Pan-ack-ay to Pan-ack-zee, A Detailed Look at the Bizarre But Beautiful
Panaque Catfishes by Neale Monks
Related Catfish FAQs: Loricariids 1,
Loricariids 2,
Otocinclus, Loricariid
Identification, Loricariid Behavior,
Loricariid Compatibility,
Loricariid Selection,
Loricariid Feeding,
Loricariid Reproduction,
Loricariid Disease, Catfish: Identification,
Behavior, Compatibility,
Selection, Systems,
Feeding, Disease,
Reproduction, Algae
Eaters,
planetcatfish.com |
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Violet Gobies, and Loricariid sys.
-08/27/08
Hi my name is Shawna and I have 2 violet gobies and 1 leopard Pleco
that is roughly 4 to 5 inches long. I have the gobies in a 10 gallon brackish
water tank.
<Too small... the Violet Gobies (Gobioides spp.) are territorial and very large.
You can expect them to reach 30-50 cm/12-20 inches under aquarium conditions and
depending on the species involved. They will fight over hiding places. The
Leopard Plec (Glyptoperichthys gibbiceps) gets to about 30-45 cm/12-18 inches.
It is a freshwater fish and cannot be kept in brackish water. The Violet Gobies
will need SG 1.005-1.010, and that is far too saline for these catfish.>
Will my Pleco do good in the tank with them?
<None of these fish will do well in a 10 gallon tank, and you need something 5
times the size just for the two Gobies, let alone the catfish. They can't be
combined either. Do see here:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_3/cav3i3/Dragon_Gobies/Dragon%20Gobies.htm
>
Thanks.
<Cheers, Neale>
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Tank size recommended for a
Bristlenose Pleco 7/25/08
Hi: I have a male Bristlenose Pleco about 5 1/2 inches.
<Nice fish! Time to get some females so you can breed them. The males make
excellent parents.>
I have had him in a 40 gallon community tank for about 2 years. He is
starting to uproot my plants on a daily basis.
<Pretty common with all Loricariidae once they reach a certain size. Not
much you can do about it, short of using robust plants that he can't harm
(Crypts, Anubias, Java fern, Vallisneria, etc.). You could also try giving
him hollow ornaments, since he is likely broody and trying to make some sort
of nest in case a female comes by. Ceramic flowerpots or PVC pipes work
great, but any hollow fish tank ornament will do. If he has a place to turn
into his private nest, he'll probably do less damage in the aquarium. Worth
a shot, anyway.>
I'm considering moving him to another tank. What size tank should I put him
in? Is 5 gallons too small?
<Yes, far too small. He needs upwards of 20 gallons at least, and I'd argue
not less than 30 gallons if you intend to keep him with other fish.>
Will he be o.k. in a tank by himself?
<Define "OK". He'll be bored out of his mind and sexually frustrated, but
will he die, no.>
Thanks for your help.
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Tank size recommended for a
Bristlenose Pleco 7/26/08
Thank you for the quick response. I will leave my Pleco where he is and
try the hollow ornament. I had two Pleco's but they both turned out to be
male and this one bullied the other one so bad I had to get rid of him. How
do I make sure I get a female?
Marilyn
<Sexing juvenile Bristlenose Plecs is difficult, but adults are very
obviously sexually dimorphic. Males have far longer "tentacles" on the front
of their heads; females can have them, but they are never as well developed.
Males are also broader at the shoulder, and tend to be longer and stockier
too. Do try and track down a copy of Kathy Jinking's excellent book
'Bristlenoses - catfish with character'; you'll find it very useful if you
intend to breed these interesting fish. Cheers, Neale.>
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Royal Panaque temperature
6/9/08
Hello Crew (and Neale, I bet this one gets handed to you <g>).
<Not so much handed as hand-picked. It's always good to hear from you Mitzi.>
I just read on PlanetCatfish that Panaque nigrolineatus preferred temperature is
22.0-30.0°C (71.6-86°F), I never realized they could live in cooler water, I
can't believe I didn't know that.
<Most tropical fish will do fine at 22C, and for many sorts, including
Corydoras, Neons, Danios and many barbs and loaches, temperatures at the cool
end of things are preferred.>
I've got two 4"-5" L191's (the Dull Eyed Royal Plecs) that get along wonderfully
but I know to keep my eye on them as they mature.
<Good!>
They're in a 6' tank right now (with 11 Cory Cats, 2 Angelfish, 13 female
Bettas, 2 Raphael Catfish & 6 Glass Catfish) but I would like to know if you
think it would be acceptable to put them in my 100 gal tank with only 3 Fantail
Goldfish (4"-6" long).
<Provided the water temperature was adequate, yes, this should work fine. A
Goldfish is simply a kind of schooling cyprinid, and can be treated thus.
Panaque won't nibble their fins.>
It's got driftwood and good current with a strong powerhead and the Royals would
get a lot more peace and quiet with no nocturnal competition in that tank.
<Panaque are pretty phlegmatic animals, and can cope with a variety of
tankmates, even things as boisterous as Mbuna. My specimen lived for many years
in a Mbuna aquarium. As noted cichlid biologist Paul Loiselle noted, Panaque are
so heavily armoured as to be "proof against everything short of depth charges"!
While Panaque aren't aggressive as such, they can and will throw their not
inconsiderable weight about if they feel annoyed. Scooting away other herbivores
from the algae pellets or whatever should be no problem!>
That tank temperature is around 75-78 degrees.
<More than adequate for Panaque.>
Is PlanetCatfish accurate in stating the Royals would do well in temps as low as
71 degrees? Neale, what temperature do you keep your Royal at?
<Mine is at 23C/74F. In summer I turn the heaters in my tanks down to the
minimum setting and let the tanks warm up and cool down naturally. Goldfish are
perfectly happy at up to 24C/75F: in terms of natural history, they're
subtropical fish that happen to be tolerant of cold water. I have a trio of
Crucian Carp (Carassius carassius) juveniles living in a thickly planted
windowsill tank where the daytime temperature rises above 30C/86F. Crucian Carp
are very close to the ancestors of the Goldfish, though the precise relationship
is contentious, but the main thing is to prove the point that these fish are
extremely adaptable. So in other words, raise the temperature in your Goldfish
system slightly, and then add the Panaque.>
Thanks to your entire group. When it comes right down to it and I need a
specific answer I honestly don't trust anyone else.
<I'm glad we've been able to help.>
That goes double for Neale because he's at the very top of my "Respect List" :-)
<Aw, shucks...>
Mitzi
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Royal Panaque temperature - 06/09/2008
That's the best news I've had since you told me Clown Loaches would do good
in my hard water-ha! And they certainly have, thriving healthy little buggers.
<Great!>
The Goldfish tank doesn't have a heater in it & I've kept the window air
conditioner on in that room to keep the temp lower for them, but I can just run
the window AC at a higher temp (been in the 90's here lately) and it sounds like
that'll be just fine for the Goldfish and the Royals either way.
<Indeed; fish don't care where the warmth comes from, what matters is that it
doesn't get too cold or too hot for them.>
I've thought so many times how much the Royals would like that tank with the
wood and all the peacefulness, I'm so glad they can live in there now. They're
actually my 11 yr old son's Goldfish and he thinks the Royals are 'way cool
fish' so he'll be glad, too. I'll just split the zucchini and mango up and put
it at *both* ends,
sounds like a plan.
<I dare say the Goldfish will be nibbling on those veggies too. Since Panaque
shouldn't eat too much meaty food, and Goldfish do better the more plant-based
their diet, this should all work out quite well. I wrote an article for TFH a
while back on the Subtropical aquarium, one that Bob has reprinted here at WWM:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/subtroptks.htm
Anyway, the more I've since researched this topic, the more species I discover
that prefer cooler water. Corydoras and Neons are perhaps the classic example:
both are routinely kept much warmer in captivity than they'd experience in the
wild. Given the abysmal survival rate of Neons in captivity, I'd wager
overheating is one like stress factor aquarists would do well to consider. My
Corydoras paleatus spend summers in an outdoor pond -- in a British summer at
that! They positively thrived, and started breeding as soon as autumn came and I
put them back in a tropical tank. In other words, it's wise not to get into this
"tropical fish = hot water" mentality. It's a lot more complex than that, but
once you've done some research, you'll find many species like cooler water than
you'd thought. This makes some "tropical" fish ideal tankmates for Goldfish in a
subtropical or not-too-warm tropical aquarium.>
Thank you, Neale! Once again you come through for me with flying colors :-))
Mitzi
<Well, we do try. Good luck, Neale.>
Re: Royal Panaque temperature 6/10/08
I certainly had read your article a very long time ago. You under-estimate
my respect for you-I go out of my way to research articles you've written. And
I'm not shy in telling others about your knowledge and the stock I put into what
you say. We all have our heroes, your cross to bear is being mine <g>.
<Very sweet!>
Part of the reason I always thought the Royals would like the Goldfish tank is
the endless supply of veggies. The Goldfish only get protein as treats once or
twice a week. I'm surprised at the number of people who automatically feed
Goldfish flakes or pellets to Goldfish and then wonder why they have swim
bladder problems. So to all the Goldfish owners-75% veggies and only
25% protein, (yet another thing I learned from you). I'll save you the trouble
of typing it, Neale-ha!
<Indeed so! Yes, there are lots of fish that do best on a plant- rather than
animal-based diet.>
Mitzi
PS Sounds like I'll be turning down my 80 degree tanks to 78 degrees and saving
on electricity
<An important point. Those folks keeping Neons, Danios and Corydoras for example
can easily turn the heat down and enjoy healthier fish as well as lower fuel
bills. With everyone talking about high energy prices and global warming, surely
that's a sensible thing to do? Cheers, Neale.>
|
Can you help please ?????
Backgrounds in tank and FW algae eaters 4/19/08
Hello crew,
I recently bought a Jewel 300 litre tank to replace a 100 litre tank which
cracked . I also bought a Jewel 3d background of some rocks, which was very
nice. However over a period of a couple months the design on the 3d background
started coming off !! So I called the petshop I bought the tank from and they
said they would replace it , the owner off the shop said it happened because I
have a small algae eater (approx.10cm.). I have never seen the algae eater on
the background and thought that the reason for the design came off was because
of a faulty pair of background tiles . I would appreciate your opinion on this
matter , have you heard of this before ? Could it be my flow off the pump is
flowing wrong direction (water getting pushed to back off tank)? Hope you can
help as I'm waiting to find out if I should put in the new tiles or take out my
algae eater first . Happy Xmas.
<Hello Andre. Some algae-eating fish can, will destroy textured backgrounds. The
Juwel ones are made from expanded polystyrene or epoxy foams. The basic material
is one colour, but there is paint applied to the outside to make it look more
attractive. In any case, Panaque spp. catfish for example simply shred them. So
what you report is not at all surprising. They cannot be used with Panaque spp.,
and probably not other medium to large Loricariidae. Cheers, Neale.>
Pleco in small tank or
aggressive tank? -04/11/08
I recently bought a 20 gallon high tank that included 3 fish; an 8 inch
Pleco, a 3 inch Pink Gourami, and a Guppy. They all get along fairly well but
I'm afraid the tank is just too small for the Pleco, especially if he continues
to grow.
<I'm assuming we're talking about a Hypostomus plecostomus, those "classic"
Plecos it seems like everybody has? If so, yes, he'll get huge (like, possibly
almost 2ft).>
I was considering moving him to my 130 gallon tank but i am unsure how he would
do with, not only the different water conditions, but the Cichlids as well.
Currently in the big tank are two 6 inch Jaguars, two 2 inch Jaguars, a 9 inch
Flowerhorn, a 4 inch Convict, a 2 inch Convict, a 3 inch Jack Dempsey and a 4
inch Tiger Shovelnose Cat. All are at least somewhat aggressive and the
Flowerhorn is just downright mean. I would hate to leave the Pleco in a tiny
tank but I would also hate to see him beaten and nipped to death by territorial
Cichlids. From what I've read, the chances of a Pleco thriving in a Cichlid tank
are very circumstantial
<I think an 8in Pleco stands a decent chance in this tank. Btw, have you ever
touched this fish? ...not exactly an appetizing texture (even for a Cichlid).
;-)>
and I'm just too scared to risk it without some professional advice. Any
information you could give me would be very helpful.
<If you have enough rockwork in the Cichlid tank for the Pleco to hide around,
I'd go ahead and give it a try. You can always remove the Pleco if the other
fish are too aggressive towards it. But it definitely shouldn't stay in a 20gH!>
Thanks.
<De nada,
Sara M.>
Pleco... sys., moving
03/16/08
Greetings to the Crew,
<And you Tom>
I have a 180 gal FW tank. (72x24x24) I have mostly smaller fish, including a
nice school (20) of Boesemanni rainbow fish.
<Gorgeous here I'd bet>
Here's my difficulty. I have two Plecos, which in the last 12 or so years have
grown rather large. In fact, the largest of these is over 12 inches and beefy.
How long could/should I leave this fish in my tank?
<Mmm... kind of a hard question (which is good)... on the one hand... the tank
is large enough to accommodate this animal... OTOH, it might be more "beautiful"
and functional to have some smaller species, individuals...>
I'd like to donate him to my LFS, which has an indoor "pond" where I think he'd
be happy.
<Oh, a good choice>
My wife would like to keep him because we raised him from very small. He mostly
doesn't mess with the other fish, although he does have an occasional "tantrum"
where he chases all the other fish out of a small area. Then, he goes off under
a rock to sulk. For my part, though I'd like to donate him, I dread the catching
part.
<Best to do with your gloved hand... pinning down while in the tank, maybe doing
a good-sized water change... I move mine "back and forth" every few weeks twixt
systems this way>
Your thoughts would be appreciated.
Tom
<Mmm, perhaps explaining to your wife that the Pleco might be far happier in
larger circumstances... Bob Fenner>
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Re: Picky
eater... Loricariid sys., 2/13/08
Hello Bob,
Thank you very much. So the 6 gallon tank is too small for my Betta or
my plecostomus or both? What is the ideal size tank for my 2 fish?
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/loricsysfaqs.htm
You have read on WWM re Betta systems?>
Seems I better cut down on the wormage, I was overfeeding!
<Happens>
I am much relieved that she'll be ok on the current pea and worm diet.
I'll cut back on her pea and worm intake. She was, of course, not
leaving any uneaten pea but I'll make it a weekend treat from now on.
You're a wonderful guy, Bob.
<Mmmm>
Thank you,
Elizabeth
<Welcome my friend. BobF>
Re: Picky eater 2/13/08
Hi Bob,
My Plecostomus is only 2.5 inches long at the moment.
<Won't be for long. But even at that size, it's too big for a 6 gallon
tank. You could *live* living inside one room of your house, but would
you want to? A Plec lives in big rivers and likes to scoot about
exploring. Minimum, this species needs a 55 gallon tank as an adult, but
even a juvenile the size of yours isn't really suitable for anything
less than 20 gallons.>
The shop where I bought him/her will exchange when it gets too big. Is
that a good idea?
<Essential.>
Right now the little sucker face hides in his dark castle and I find him
frequently in and among the living plants. How big is too big for that
species in a 6 gallon tank?
<He's there now. There really aren't many fish suitable for a 6 gallon
tank; if you want "critters" for such a system, I'd be looking at Nerite
snails, Cherry Shrimp, etc.>
Thank you again,
Elizabeth
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Picky eater 2/13/08
Hi Neale,
<Hello Elizabeth,>
Thank you for the excellent advice. I'll be buying a 20 gallon tank
ASAP! Yes, the critters are a lot of fun and now I know who to get.
<Cool. Honestly, small tanks are more fun with "critters"; Cherry
Shrimps will breed quite happily, and the baby shrimps are utterly
adorable.>
Whoa, now I'm all excited about a bigger home for my fish. Your analogy
of the living situation made it very clear.
<Good-oh.>
I just did some more research on plecostomus and hey, they are HUGE.
<Indeed they are. 30-45 cm is typical for most species. That's about the
size of a Trout... and obviously you wouldn't put a trout in a Betta
Bowl! They do grow quickly, often getting to about 15-20 cm within the
first year, and full size after 3-4 years.>
Thank you again, you guys are such a wonderful help,
Elizabeth
<We're happy to help. Cheers, Neale.> |
Background Tiles, FW...
Loricariid sys. 1/5/08
Hello crew,
<Hello,>
I recently bought a Jewel 300 litre tank to replace a 100 litre tank which
cracked . I also bought a Jewel 3d background of some rocks, which was very
nice. However over a period of a couple months the design on the 3d background
started coming off !! So called the pet shop I bought the tank from and they
said they would replace it , the owner off the shop said it happened because I
have a small algae eater (approx.10cm.). I have never seen the algae eater on
the background and thought that the reason for the design came off was because
of a faulty pair of background tiles . I would appreciate your opinion on this
matter , have you heard of this before ? Could it be my flow off the pump is
flowing wrong direction (water getting pushed to back off tank)? Hope you can
help as I'm waiting to find out if I should put in the new tiles or take out my
algae eater first . Happy new year
<Yes, algae eaters of all types can be hard on 3-D backgrounds. The problem is
the scraping teeth these fish have. My Panaque nigrolineatus has literally
covered every piece of plastic in my Juwel 180 with scratch marks. She'd shred
any 3-D background in no time. The result is any paint or dye applied to a 3-D
background quickly gets worn off. If you want to use a 3-D background, your best
bet is to use plants for algae control rather than fish. Plants do a better job
anyway. If you want fish to spot clean the odd tuft of algae, switch instead to
nibblers rather than scrapers: Florida flagfish, Platies, Cherry Shrimp, Amano
Shrimp, and so on. In any case, once your Gyrinocheilus aymonieri gets even a
little bigger, it will start hammering any fish kept with it. They are seriously
unpleasant fish that should only be mixed with heavy duty cichlids and
Loricariids able to fight back. Adult Gyrinocheilus aymonieri don't clean the
algae from the tank anyway, and prefer meaty/wormy foods along with soft
vegetables, algae pellets, etc. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: L-25 Scarlet Pleco
feeding, now sys. 12/9/07
Neale,
Sorry for the multiple replies, but I forgot one quick question. My tank
dimension is approximately 60"L x 24.5"D x 27"H, give and take a few.
<Around 168 US gallons.
Anyhoo, I have three Fluval 405 canisters evenly spread out along the back side
(Length) of the tank. Do you think this is enough circulation for this type of
Pseudacanthicus sp. (Scarlet Pleco) coming from the Rio Xingú?
<Should be fine. Fluval 405 filters have a turnover of 340 gallons per hour
(when empty of media and place at the same level as the aquarium, not under it,
anyway). So 4 filters gives you a turnover of 1,360 GPH. That's about 8 times
the volume of the tank. Comfortably in the "safe zone".>
I was thinking about adding the Vortech MP40W powerhead to one end of the tank
to create a river condition.
<Not a bad idea at all. Loricariids appreciate extra water flow, especially
those from major river systems. In addition, you do have the extra problem of
Xingu fish needing slightly warmer water than other fish, while being less
tolerant of poor oxygen concentration. While no filter or pump can compensate
for overstocking, the more circulation, the better.>
Or is it even necessary in my case?
<Depends on the size of the fish and the stocking level of the tank. You should
be fine with just the canister filters, but adding a powerhead or two is a cheap
and effective way to improve conditions if you find water quality is good but
the fish is still lethargic or otherwise unhappy. This said, Pseudacanthicus
have proven to be adaptable, and provided your retailer has acclimated the fish
to local conditions and "taken the hit" in terms of fish that didn't tolerate
shipping, a well-fed, lively specimen is a sound investment and should do very
well.>
Thanks a lot once again. Sorry to be such a bother. Andy
<Happy to help, Neale.>
|
Need help with
filtration system, FW... Loricariid sys. 12/5/07
Hello,
I am having problems keeping my tank "crystal clear" so to speak. I have
a 55 gallon tank with a 13 inch common Pleco. I have had him for 4 1/2
years and moved him from a 10 to 20 to the 55 gallon tank.? I have the
tank minimally decorated - giving him plenty of room to move around but
allowing him hiding areas.? His current tank mates are only a pair of
zebra danios.
I have two 60 gallon top fin filters on the tank and a bubble curtain on
each end of the tank.? I have to wash the filters about every 4 days and
put new filters on about every 2 weeks (maybe sooner).? I try to clean
the excess Pleco waste from the tank daily but sometimes it is every
other day (it isn't a pretty job).
My Pleco seems happy - the tank is algae free - he swims around a lot - I
feed him algae and veggie tabs. He loves cucumbers.
My problem - immediately after doing a water change, his tank looks
great, crystal clear water, no problems. I am not having problems
keeping the water properties at the correct levels.? After 2 days or so,
the water starts to get cloudy - no matter what I do, wash filters, new
filters - it won't go back to the crystal clear clean look. The tap
water where I live isn't of the best quality. The local pet store
suggested bottled water. I have done that. That was fine in the smaller
tank but it has become very expensive in the 55 gallon tank.
Can you recommend a different filtration system that would help remove
the small precipitants, more waste, etc that my current filtration
system is able to handle?
Thanks,
Julie
<Hello Julie. Your problem is a very common one when anyone keeps large
Loricariid catfish -- they are gross polluters that produce large
amounts of solid waste, mostly faeces, wood chippings, and fragments of
the plants and vegetables they eat. While the mess they make is low in
protein and causes no immediate problems in terms of nitrite or ammonia,
it is unsightly, and when the filter becomes clogged, water flow is
reduced and water quality problems can occur. The only real solutions
are [a] aggressively performing water changes, perhaps on a daily basis,
to siphon out solid waste; and [b] dramatically increasing mechanical
filtration. Big Loricariid catfish like Plecs need something like 10
times the volume of the tank in terms of filter turnover. So if you have
a 55 gallon tank, you want to install filters with 550 gallons per hour
turnover. That's going to be something like two medium to large canister
filters. The problem with "hang on the back" filters is they are
designed for clean fish like guppies and tetras. They contain very
little mechanical filter media (e.g., filter wool) and produce very
little water current. Canister filters, ideally couple with a reverse
flow undergravel filter, do a much, MUCH better job of keeping water
moving across the tank and then passing that water through a thick wad
of mechanical filter medium that will extract the solid waste. Once you
have these canister filters installed, you can do weekly maintenance on
the filters to rinse out the solid waste from the filter wool or
sponges. Trust me: as someone who keeps a Panaque nigrolineatus in a
planted tank with lots of bogwood, keeping the tank "clean" is an
ongoing struggle. You may decide to forget about it all together, and
simply return the Plec to the pet store and keep a smaller, less messy
catfish such as one of the smaller Ancistrus. Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Need help with
filtration system 12/5/07
Hello,
Thank you for your quick response. I did not realize the difference
between the hanging and canister filter system.
<It's something you learn the hard way! But if you visit people keeping
big, messy fish they almost always use canister filters rather than
anything else.>
I enjoy my Pleco and do not want to get rid of him.? He has a unique
personality. I had a couple of black mollies with him but the waste
produced between the Pleco and mollies was excessive so I found a new
home for the mollies. I had hoped that was going to help clear up the
tank. This is the reason his only tankmates are the 2 zebra danios. I am
trying to get a handle on the water issue.
<Good.>
Can you recommend a couple of different canister filters for me to
research and see which one might suit my situation best? I realize, this
would only be your opinion and in the end, my choice to determine if it
will work for me or not - I am not familiar with canister filters and do
not have a clue as to where to start or what is a decent brand.
<I'm hesitant to pick out any particular model, but I will say that I've
used the Fluval, Eheim, and Sera brands with success. A lot of aquarists
consider Eheim filters the best of them in terms of reliability, but
they are more expensive. What you're after is something to complement
the biological filtration provided by your hand-on-the-back filters. So
let's say you should aim for something at 4-5 times the turnover of the
tank. Something like the Eheim 2026 or Fluval 304 would be just the
ticket. If you add the canister filter to an undergravel filter, to
create something called a reverse-flow undergravel filter, you'll get
even more bang for your buck. What happens here is the filter pushes
water into the gravel via the uplift, and the water rises through the
gravel, pushing the dirt into the water, where it can get quickly sucked
up by the filter (even your hang-on-the-back filters). The downside is
this will require taking the tank apart, and then installing a filter
under the gravel, but it is at least a cheap and easy solution. If you
need more details on this, let me know. But most books should have
pictures of a reverse flow system.>
I like my Pleco, JAWS, and want to give him a happy, healthy and clean
home. If I get a canister filter and it cleans up the tank, do you
think I can add a few more small fish, like the danios??
<Absolutely! The issue with the solid waste isn't really water quality
as such. Do a nitrite test and you'll see. The water is probably very
good. The dirt is more a visual problem rather than anything else. A
school of Danios would look fabulous in this tank, and Danios really
come alive when they have extra-strong water currents to swim into. Add
the bubbles from your air pumps, and then a few big rocks and bogwood
stumps, and you'll have a nice little slice of a mountain stream!>
Your website has great information.
Thanks for the help.
Julie
<Hope this helps, Neale.>
|
Pleco with weird spots –
10/30/2007
Hello,
<Hello.>
I have, what I assume, is a common Pleco (Pterygoplichthys multiradiatus). He
looks like the picture that appears with this name.
<Also check Pterygoplichthys pardalis; the two species are sold interchangeably
as "Common Pleco" and are easily confused. There are other Pterygoplichthys that
might be traded too. All very similar.>
He is approximately 4 years old and 13 inches long.
<Ah, still a young 'un! Maximum size of Pterygoplichthys multiradiatus is 50 cm.
These are BIG fish.>
I got him when he was less than 2 inches long and started in a 10 gallon tank to
a 20 gallon tank and now in a 55 gallon tank.
<Yes, they grow fast!>
The tank has good filtration, 2 bubble curtains for aeration and is sparsely
decorated so he has room to move around with ease but he can hide. Although, he
likes to be out in the open and comes up to the front of the tank to see me. His
only tank mates are a pair of zebra Danios.
<Sounds fine. But you might want to add some more Danios.>
I feed him: algae tabs, veggie tabs, cucumbers, occasionally water melon, he
cleans up any left over fish flakes and he keeps the tank algae free.?
<All good. But do also try carrot, sweet potato, Sushi Nori and courgette.
Cucumber is 99% water, so not really good for anything much, though I agree that
all Plecs seem to love it. Do also add some bogwood, which Plecs seem to use as
a source of fibre. The odd prawn or mussel will also be welcomed, maybe once a
week. Pterygoplichthys is an omnivore rather than a strict herbivore.>
I was having a hard time keeping the tank water clean and water conditions
stable.
<No surprise. Welcome to the Big Catfish = Dirty Tank club. I was thinking of
having some jackets made up.>
He was producing a lot of waste.
<You're effectively keeping a cow in an aquarium. So expect masses of faeces. On
the plus side, there's hardly any ammonia in them, so the ammonia and nitrite
will stay low. It's more a cosmetic problem, though obviously a clogged-up
filter is a Bad Thing.>
My filters were constantly dirty regardless of how often I rinsed them out or
put a clean one in.
<Normal. That's why you need something around 6 times the volume of the tank in
turnover, and ideally 10 times. In other words, in a 55 gallon tank, you need
filters with ~ 300 to 500 gallons per hour turnover.>
It was suggested to me, to add "Waste Control Organic Waste Eliminator" by
Nutrafin and "Nutrafin Cycle Biological Filter Supplement" to help break down my
Plecos waste and any left over food. This has solved my water condition
problems.
<Can't think why. Neither product sounds magical, especially the latter, which
is basically unnecessary in a healthy aquarium. The solid waste produced by your
catfish is mostly cellulose. It will break down over time, but it is messy.
Because it contains minimal nitrogen, its effect on water quality is virtually
zero. Here's my strategy: arrange your gravel so one of the corners is shallower
than in the rest of the tank. The filter current should push the faeces into
this "crater" over time. Each day, you can siphon out the unsightly waste.>
I noticed he had a round brownish looking spot on the side of his head towards
the top. I actually thought he had gotten a burn from the heater. He likes to
get close and suck on the heater at times. Today, I noticed he has several spots
that are roundish in shape, brownish in color and have a light white fuzz like
coating on top of the spots. I had to use a magnifying glass to see the white
fuzz. I do not recall these spots before I added the "Waste Control Organic
Waste Eliminator" by Nutrafin and "Nutrafin Cycle Biological Filter Supplement".
<Hmm... the fuzz is fungus and needs to be treated immediately. The heater MUST
have a "heater guard" around it. These are plastic tube-shaped grills. Some
heaters come with them anyway. If yours doesn't, go buy a heater guard. Put it
over the heater. That will prevent heater burns. What you are describing is
quite common, and easily prevented.>
His overall color is good, he is eating and moving around the tank as normal. Do
you have a suggestion of what these spots are and what I should do?
<The fungus is eating up dead skin caused by heater burns.>
Thanks,
Julie
<Good luck, Neale>
Pregnant Zebra Danio 10/2/07
Hello,
<Hi there>
I have a 55 gallon tank with a 13 inch Plecostomus,
<Yikes! Needs more room... or to be traded in for a smaller individual>
3 zebra danios(2 females, 1 male). My problem is with one of the female
danios.? She appears to be very very pregnant.? She is huge.? Her skin appears
to have cracks? running down the side and underneath her belly. She is eating
and swimming.? She will not release any eggs. I am assuming that is what she
should be doing. Do you have any advice on what I could do to help her out? It
looks like she is going to explode.
Thanks,
Julie
<Likely some sort of gut blockage... what do you feed and how? Please read here
re possible Epsom Salt treatment:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/saltusefaqs.htm
Bob Fenner>
Re: Pregnant Zebra Danio... Lg. Pleco in
small world 10/3/07
Hello,
<Hi there>
Thank you for your reply about my problem with my pregnant danio.
<Welcome>
However, I was taken back by your response to me having a 13 inch Plecostomus in
a 55 gallon tank.
<Yes... the fish is as long as the width of this tank...>
I don't have the tank over loaded with plants or decorations so he moves around
easily.
<Mmm... do you know which species of Loricariid this actually is? There are some
that would/might be stunted here...>
I see him swimming on his side, upside down, enjoying the bubble curtains -
eating the algae all over the tank. He "appears" happy and able to move around
freely. I have moved him from a 10 to 20 to 55 gallon tank as he has grown from
2 inches to 13 inches in the last 4 years. I am a novice at the Plecos and
didn't have any idea of what I was getting into.
Could you explain this to me in a little for detail please - this fish has
become a part of my family - my husband thinks I love the fish more than
him (haha)- as I sit and talk to the fish and just watch the fish's personality
unfold daily.
Thanks,
Julie
<Do take a look on fishbase.org re the family... some of the species listed...
This fish really does need more room still. BobF>
Guppy fry and Sailfin catfish (L83)
6/12/07
Hi,
<Ave!>
I have several aquariums with fancy guppies fry. I keep 1 sailfin catfish
(L83) in every tank and they do a great work.
<Very good.>
However - I have 2 questions:
1. How much salt can be added to the aquarium while the sailfin is there?
what about Epsom salt? (due to guppies with constipation).
<I'd personally not use Epsom salts here but instead simply feed the right
diet. Guppies shouldn't get constipated because they are so easy to feed on
the right foods. Stop using generic fish flake if that's what you're using.
Instead, use livebearer flake, Sushi Nori, thin slices of cucumber, tinned
peas, etc. The good thing is any leftovers will be scarfed up by the
catfish. Only add small amounts of animal protein, ideally "high fibre"
things like brine shrimp and daphnia. The problem with Epsom salts is used
routinely they can interfere with the normal digestive processes of the
fish. Think of Epsom salts as the equivalent of laxatives in humans. Used to
treat an acute case of constipation makes sense, but if the person is
regularly constipated, then laxatives aren't the solution, a change of diet
is.>
2. Can it be that the sailfin will eat live guppy fry? I'm also certain that
I've seen one do it yesterday, while it was looking for the algae wafer. It
was moved to another tank.
<Potentially I suppose it's possible but hardly likely. Under normal
circumstances the guppy fry should be at the top of the tank and swimming
too quickly to be eaten by this catfish. Possibly your catfish will eat a
sick (or stupid) guppy, but hey, that's Nature taking care of culling the
poor quality stock!>
Thanks,
Shay.
<Cheers, Neale
Re: Guppy fry and Sailfin catfish (L83)
6/12/07
Thanks for the answer.
<No problems.>
About the feeding:
I mainly feed the fry with live or frozen baby brine shrimp, Kenfish.com
kens premium growth meal (size 00 and later 01), Hikari Tropical Fancy guppy
and Hikari Tropical first bites.
<All fine foods, but the accent with these foods is on protein rather than
vegetables. There's no escaping the fact guppies are partly herbivorous, and
they need some algae in their diet. Just the same as with humans: give us a
high-protein diet and we may put on weight quickly, but our health isn't
otherwise very good.>
I use automatic feeders to feed all of the above 5 times a day, and give the
baby brine shrimp twice a day after the dry food.
<OK, but do try and focus on the veggies.>
It might be that the constipation isn’t really constipation. Occasionally a
fish will have a swollen up belly, becomes grey, doesn’t eat (even live
brine shrimp), stays at the bottom and dies after several days. Growth rate
is good, and water is kept at 25-28c, changed every 2-3 days 50%. What could
be the cause to that?
<There's always a certain number of baby fish that don't survive. The
reasons are various. Diet is one factor. Genes are another. Water
chemistry/quality a third and fourth. At the end of the day you can't really
expect every single baby fish to make it. You seem to be doing all the right
things, so I wouldn't worry too much. Optimise water chemistry and quality.
For guppies, a fairly high pH and hardness level is needed.>
Thanks again,
Shay.
<Cheers, Neale>
Plecos, hold the salt please – 5/30/07
Hello,
<<Hello, Julie. Tom with you.>>
I have a question about adding salt to my freshwater tank. I have a 55 gallon
tank. Currently, it contains black mollies, gold balloon belly mollies, zebra
danios and one 12 inch Pleco.
<<Hmmm…okay. Mollies are typically categorized as “brackish” water fish, Julie.
Your Pleco has little, if any, tolerance for salt. Not ideal but let’s see what
we can do.>>
My problem - the black mollies have ich and I am having trouble getting rid of
it. I read that my tank needs salt and this will aid in getting rid of and
keeping the ich out of my tank.
<<Salt is one of the “safest” ways to go, Julie, but not the only one. In this
case, a “treatment” level of salt for Ick will do your Pleco no good whatsoever.
We need to look for an alternate course of action.>>
I also read that my Pleco will not do well with too much salt in the water.
<<True.>>
Is there a certain amount of salt that I could add to my tank that might help my
mollies but not hurt my Pleco?
<<In this case, Julie, there isn’t. Plecos can “tolerate” no more than a dosage
of one tablespoon of salt per five gallons of water and even that is “iffy”.
You’d likely need to up this to around two-three tablespoons per five gallons to
effectively do battle with this parasite. Not an option, I’m afraid. You should
consider Maracide here. Not quite as effective as other forms of treatment but
“scaleless” fish seem to do quite well with this treatment. ‘Quick Cure’ is a
formulation of formalin and malachite green which is very effective,
particularly when combined like this but, it does have “safety” drawbacks as
it’s toxic to fish and plants if dosing isn’t done properly or, if treated for a
prolonged period. Treatments with this product can be very successful when
half-dosed in 12-hour intervals, however. I’d go with the Maracide here, though.
If this were a more serious outbreak, I’d direct you to go with the Quick Cure
but I’d rather that you feel comfortable with this rather than put you on the
spot. Also, remember to increase the temperature of the tank to 82-86 degrees F.
over a period of several hours to speed up the life cycle of the Ick.>>
Thanks,
Julie
<<You’re welcome, Julie. Best of luck. Tom>>
ACF, Pleco and small goldfish (feeders) 5/22/07
I have had 3 small goldfish in a nice 10 gallon tank for 2 years. I have a top
fin 10 filter.
<To start with, a 10 gallon tank is too small for adult goldfish, and at some
point the pollution they produce will start degrading their health.>
Algae started to grow in the tank, so we were told to buy a Pleco.
<Algae is not eliminated by adding any animals. The reverse in fact: more fish =
more nitrate in the water = faster rate of algae growth. The "add a catfish"
idea is a myth and cannot scientifically work unless the catfish ate the algae
in the aquarium and then went out the tank and into the outhouse to excrete all
the ammonia there instead.>
We went to PetLand discounts, got the Pleco (about 1 ½”) and next to that tank
were the cutest frogs. I never realized there were
under water frogs, or knew anything about them, but my daughter wanted one, so
we bought one.
<No offense, but buying animals you know nothing about is hardly sensible and
sets a poor example to children, i.e., that animals are toys not
responsibilities.>
Now we realize it is an African Clawed Frog. We bought these 5 days ago. We feed
the fish blood worms, so we figured the frog would eat this too. Anyway, we woke
up today, and all 3 of our fish are dead.
<Oh dear. Dare one ask if you'd done any water tests recently? Usually when fish
die "all of a sudden" the issue is water quality, not disease. Besides, your 10
gallon tank is WAAAYYYYY overstocked and the little filter overwhelmed. A Plec
can reach 30-45 cm depending on the species, and needs a tank at least 30
gallons and preferably 55 gallons in size. Your goldfish potentially reach 30 cm
and the record is 60 cm, so again, BIG fish.>
The frog and the Pleco seem to be doing fine.
<Probably because the loading in the tank has "crashed" down to a safe level
where the aquarium and filter can cope.>
Do you think by introducing the frog and the Pleco to the tank this killed our
fish?
<Most likely, yes.>
I feel so bad.
<Don't feel bad, but do try and learn. Fish and frogs are animals, just like
cats and dogs, and you wouldn't impulse purchase a dog, would you? So, look over
the site and read the articles on goldfish and Plecs:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/gldfshsystems.htm and
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/loricariids.htm .>
I am going to go out and buy 2 more frogs, and just keep the frogs and Pleco in
the tank, and not add fish. Is this what I should do?
<Sounds about right. There are two kinds of aquatic frog in the hobby, a dwarf
species that gets around 5 cm long and the regular species that gets to around
15 cm long. Both are interesting, hardy animals, but do research their needs.>
Thank you,
Laura
<No problems. Good luck! Neale>
Re: ACF, Pleco and small goldfish (feeders) 5/22/07
Thank you for your quick response. This morning when I woke up, the
Pleco was
also dead!
<Oh dear. I'm afraid to say that this isn't uncommon. It sounds as if your
aquarium was simply overloaded with livestock, and adding the catfish and frog
crashed the system, rendering it inhospitable to life. Please stop are read some
basic fishkeeping stuff on this web site or in a book. The importance of
maintaining a healthy filter cannot be overstated. Many newcomers to the hobby
do things like clean the filter media under the tap/faucet, wiping out the
"good" bacteria that clean the water. Also, there are things like dechlorinating
the water before using it that matter a great deal. So before you buy anything
else, read a little more so you feel comfortable. The basics of fishkeeping are
extremely easy to master, but if you ignore them... disaster!>
So now I only have the little frog :(. I am afraid the frog is going to die
too.
<I hope note. Please do a big water change now (50%) and another tomorrow (also
50%) to flush out all the "bad" water. Make sure you use dechlorinator. Add tiny
amounts of food (don't feed at all for the next 48 hours). Leave things to
stabilise after this, for a week or two, checking the water quality with your
handy new nitrIte (not nitrAte) test kit. Better yet, buy some of those little
dip-sticks that have pH, hardness, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate measurements
built into them. Once you're happy the tank is stable, then you can start adding
more critters.>
I am so upset that we introduced these to the tank. Should I still get a few
more frogs, because I read that they are social and like to be in groups.
<Indeed so, but hold off buying more frogs until you are safe the tank is
stable. You want perfect water quality for at least 2 weeks.>
I will also buy a water test kit.
<Very good! Frogs are fun in themselves, and mix well with "oddball" critters
like apple snails and shrimps. You don't even need fish, and in a tank of 10
gallons, dwarf frogs, snails, and shrimps would be practical and easy to
maintain.>
Thanks again for your response.
<No problems, and good luck. Neale>
Releasing Tropical Fish Into The Wild; question on royal sucker
fish – 04/29/07
Hi there, I have a royal sucker fish in my fish tank for over the 2
years. I've had loads of my gold fish die due to the sucker. I think I'm
going to get rid of my tank and the pet shop doesn't take fish back.
Would it be ok to put the fish in a canal or a stream? Would it be
OK or would it die straight away? Thanks Sharon
< Never release any tropical fish into the wild! First, the water is
probably too cold. It may last during the summer, but when it gets cold
in the Fall it will die outright. Second, if you live in an area where
it is warm enough to survive, it may harm or compete with a native
species. Third, you may be introducing a disease that may kill off all
the other fish in the area that you released the fish. Forth, it is
probably illegal. There are many instances of people releasing tropical
fish into the wild. Pacus are reported as piranhas and always make the
news. While you are getting out of the hobby, the rest of us that are
going to be around for a long time really don't need the bad press and
problems with the public. A royal Pleco is a very desirable fish. I
don't think you will have any problem getting a tropical fish store to
take it in. Thanks for checking in before making any moves.-Chuck>
Sucker Fish ID – 04/30/07
I made a mistake, It is a Pleco, a fresh water fish.
< Sucker fish are often referred to as Plecos in the aquarium
trade.-Chuck>
Question Re: Oto placement 12/10/06
Hi Tom,
<<Hey, Sean.>>
I have another question for you already.
<<Let's hear it...>>
I was at a major chain pet store today, and much to my surprise, they were
selling Otos (Otocinclus) for $1.99. Since this is the first time I've seen them
in my area, and that price is too good to pass up, I bought 3 (I read on WWM
that they do well in groups). I have 2 tanks, and I can't decide which one they
would do best in.
<<The quarantine tank, Sean. (Being a little silly but I’ll explain.) The store
I buy my fish from, my Otos included, is, literally, a “Mom and Pop” operation
and won’t sell their freshwater animals for the first two weeks after they take
delivery, i.e. they quarantine them all. Saltwater fish are held for four weeks
with cards posted on the tanks showing the dates that the fish arrived at the
store. That said, I can guarantee that this isn’t the case with your Otos. Point
number one. Next, Otos are notorious for being difficult to acclimate. Wonderful
little guys that they are, they’re easily lost early on no doubt due to the
stress of transporting, handling, lack of sufficient food and – the big one –
means of capture. Because of their tiny size and naturally tangled environment,
many (most?) of the Otos that reach the store have been taken in the wild using
cyanide, or other chemicals, to disable them for collection. (I would be
skeptical that ‘tank-raised’ Otos would be going for $1.99 each. Mine were $3.99
each which I thought was a bargain.) The upshot here is that these chemicals can
remain in the internal organs of the fish either shortening their natural
lifespans of about five years or leading to a much, much earlier demise. Darned
hard on the Oto, to be sure, but if one is lost and picked at by another fish,
it, too, may end up with contamination from the chemicals I referred to. Now,
let’s move on to your options.>>
Tank one is a 24g tall/show tank, moderately planted, with a cheap "fizz tab"
CO2 system. Its inhabitants are 4 Opaline gouramis, Trichogaster trichopterus (2
are the gold variety), 2 paradise fish, Macropodus opercularis, 2 Ramshorn
snails, and one common Pleco, who will be re-homed soon as this tank will be way
too small for him (he's only about 4" right now).
<<Sounds like a good choice, Sean. And, I appreciate your thinking regarding the
upgrade for the Pleco.>>
Tank 2 is a 5g, moderately planted, with no CO2. Its inhabitants are 1 Betta and
3 cherry shrimp.
<<Could be a good option as well but, personally, I like to add some aquarium
salt in with my Betta. Your Otos would “tolerate” the amount of salt I use but I
don’t think they’d appreciate it very much.>>
Both tanks have laterite and gravel substrate, a good amount of driftwood, and a
pH just above 7. Neither tank has much of an algae problem, although both tanks
have small amounts of green "spot" algae.
Now, here's my question: which of these tanks would be a better fit for my Otos?
<<As you may have gathered, Sean, I like the larger tank for your new pets. The
smaller tank would likely work just fine but I’m not a huge fan of keeping
Bettas with other fish. Just me, perhaps. Also, if you do decide to add salt to
your Betta’s tank down the road, and I do recommend this, it probably wouldn’t
sit well with the Otos if they were in the tank.>>
Sean
<<Enjoy your new fish, Sean. Tom>>
Pleco River Habitat... A Possibility? - Bob,
if available. 12/8/06
Hi,
I have 3 common Plecos (4-6") and 8 juvenile koi (1.5- 2") and a
tadpole in a 20 L tank (I know this is way too many fish, but they do
have a HUGE bio-filter and w/c's are done frequently.)
<Mmm... but... you know that the koi/Cyprinus carpio can/do grow much
more than the length of this tank... You're walking a thin line...>
The koi are being wintered in there, and the Plecos were permanent
residents. I have acquired a "new" 55 gallon tank (my aunt tried fish
"her way"
<Shades of Frank Sinatra!>
(i.e. no w/c's, all stock at once, and way over stocked) instead of the
right way, and gave up, saying she has no time for "stupid" fish.)
<Mmm... not much comment...>
So, I have the 55 gallon tank, and it will function as a room divider.
Thus, I wanted to setup a tank that would look interesting from both
sides, yet still be functional- something new for me (all my tanks are
against walls). I imagined perhaps 1/4 cordoned off at an angle with a
piece of plexi-glass (siliconed in to make 3/4 of the tank water-proof)
then a cap piece to provide a ramp out of the water, and to keep dirt
out of the water. (See Pic below!!!)
<Neat!>
There will be algae covered rocks, a piece of driftwood, large-ish
gravel, and some tropical moss/ plants on land, as well as some hardy
plants in the water. (All seen above in my 2 min. drawing) For
filtration I will use the 40 gallon sized Fluval internal filter
(far-left). The koi will leave in the spring (to a 4,000 gallon pond).
<Good>
I hope to add maybe 4-6 dwarf clawed frogs, a salamander or newt, and
whatever else is compatible.
<Mmm, the Xenopus will likely consume all else in time>
(What are your stocking suggestions?) I will do research on these
animals, but some I have/ have had. The concept behind it is a "slice of
an Amazonian river". What temperature should this be kept at? (76-80?)
<For the amphibians... likely not so warm depending on the urodelan
species you end up with>
Will my grand scheme work??? Do you see any problems/ have any
suggestions?
Thanks,
<Does look workable... I would investigate the possibility AND
availability of other (amphibian and not) Amazonian species,
micro-habitats there. Bob Fenner> |
Re: Pleco River Habitat... A Possibility? - Bob, if available.
12/9/06
Hi,
Yes, she did it "her way", lol. Luckily I have an excellent LFS
within 30 minutes of me that carries a variety of amphibians and is
willing to order anything I want.
Thanks,
<Ahhh! "I'll go it alone, that's how it must be... I can't be right for
somebody else unless their pet fishy!". Bob Fenner> |
|
|
Salinity Woes 11/27/06
I recently bought 1 Pleco (3 inch), 3 Cory Cats (1inch), an Iridescent Shark
(2 inch), and a Colombian Shark (2 inch) for my 55 gal. aquarium. I know that
the sharks will outgrow this tank. <Yep> My question deals with the salinity
of the water, as I found out (after the fact) that the Colombian Shark will
prefer a brackish/marine environment as it matures. How much salinity will my
other fish tolerate? Thanks!
Kevin R.
<Not much/any for the Corys and Pleco. This mix is not viable for the long
term.>
<Chris>
Clown Loach and Bristlenose Troubles... Actually iatrogenic problems,
ignorance, lack of self-reliance... in killing freshwater fishes 9/25/06
Hello WWM helping elves,
<Where's Santa?>
I am having some troubles with my fish. I seem to have a slow but steady
mortality rate. I have a 28L tank (sorry, not sure what that is in gallons).
<... dismal. Look it up...>
It has been up an running with fish for 5 months now,
<... in six-seven or so gallons...>
but there seems to be a consistent pattern that has evolved in regards to my
fish and their lifespans.
We started with 2 goldfish, to get the tank cycled and happy.
<A poor idea>
When our LFS man gave us the all clear (he is strict with us) he allowed us to
get some tropical fish.
<With pathogens already installed by way of your goldfish adventure...>
We have been gradually adding to the tank till now to get a nice community
tank. The 2 goldfish have been given away as there was not so much room as
before. We have 1blue and 1 golden Gourami, a smallish angel fish, a bristle
nose catfish and 2 clown loaches.
<These are too much, way too much for this small volume>
The trouble with the fish is that we are now onto our 3rd catfish, and as of
this morning I only have 1 clown loach. For all 3 fish that have died, there
has been a similar pattern. All have stopped eating, then after 3 days of their
hunger strike their tummies bloat, then this goes away the next day, then they
die the day after. Both the catfish only lived for 3 weeks, and the clown loach
died 3 weeks after my last catfish.
<Ultra dismal... I'm changing my mind, opinion>
For the catfish, they just stopped licking the glass, and the clown loach took
to swimming upside down near the spray bar pipe - constantly.
<Environmental...>
I have had my
LFS man check my water for everything (I think he dreads every time I walk
through the door),
<I would as well...>
and he says that my water is perfect for the fish that I have and commented that
if my latest catfish died it was a factor he cannot test for. To make me feel
better, he has given me a slightly bigger catfish this time in the hopes that it
is more hardy.
<... the opposite here...>
I feed them a combination of dried food, blood worms (once a week), algae wafers
and a little piece of zucchini every now and then. I do monthly water changes
of 10% with good water, and keep check on the basic water condition weekly.
I am aware that a 28L tank is not very big,
<Bingo>
and am wondering if clown loaches are the best choice with the other fish.
<Nope... poor choices...>
I purchased 2 as they are social fish, but have read that odd numbers are
better. At this time the remaining one I have is small. Should I get 2 friends
for it, or should I change the type of fish, or will one more be enough. I will
eventually get a bigger tank, so the fact that they grow has been accounted for,
however I would like to know what is best for now and would first very much like
them to stop dying.
I don't know where I am going wrong, and would like some help before I replace
my little one.
Ta, from Cian
<... Let's see... your real problem is rooted in the too-small world for the
species you list. It cannot support this type of life, density... The
Bristlenose Loricariids need volumes of three, four plus size to survive... Tiny
volumes of water are too inherently unstable to provide proper environments...
You might look into much smaller (ultimately) species... Next, your system is
very likely infested with some sort/s of disease organisms from the goldfish
period... Next, your reliance on others for the care you can only provide is
short-sighted to use a kind term... Lastly, the answers to the "present
situation" you find yourself the maker/keeper of are of your own ignorance and
lack of research... Consider what you want to do, educate yourself, then act...
BobF>
Plecos Poor Survival in Tank 9/16/-6
Hi there,
<Hi Cali, Pufferpunk here>
I have a 20 gallon hexagon freshwater aquarium. I've had it for
about a year and a half now. I have 2 red rainbow fish, 2
strawberry tetras, 2 silver/white mollies, 1 black molly, a frog,
<Dwarf frog, I hope!>
1 powder blue dwarf Gourami and an upside down catfish.
<The Synodontis (upside down cat) can grow quite large & so do the
rainbows--way too large for your tank, especially with the lesser
swimming room in a hex. The rainbows need a very long tank to swim
across.>
I have fake silk plants and some tank decorations. I have tried
several species of Pleco fish over the last year and none of
them survive. I have algae and when there is no algae I supplement
with algae tablets. The longest surviving Pleco was a butterfly
variety and that lasted about 2 weeks. Considering they are
supposed to be hearty fish, I'm not sure why they keep dying. Any
suggestions?
<You want to start by testing your water parameters for ammonia,
nitrites (should be 0 at all times), nitrates (should be under 20) &
pH (most Plecos prefer low pH but can handle neutral, 7.2). If all
that is good, then the next Pleco you buy (must be a dwarf species
for such a small tank), be sure it has a nice convex tummy--not
caved in. Most Plecos are wild-caught & need to be treated for
internal parasites after purchase or they will quickly waste
away. You might have better luck with the dwarf Bristlenose
Pleco,
as many are tank-raised. ~PP> <<Likely the species
involved need much more room as well. RMF>>
Thanks, Cali Day
Setting Up a Pleco Only Tank 8/19/06
Hello, Bet you've never heard this one before...Well, I'm looking to getting
my first aquarium. Aiming for a 10 or 20 gallon. What I want to do it have
primarily suckerfish! I think they're very cute and would like to have as many
as appropriate-for-tank-size possible. Is there a problem with what I want to
do? Can I keep them satisfied with
algae tablets? Thanks!~ Adam
< Go to planetcatfish.com. They have many species profiles listed and you can
check on most of the Plecos available in the hobby. Then match them up with your
water conditions and space.-Chuck>
Big Plecos In A Community Tank 5/26/06
Hi, Great Site! I have a bit of a problem, and figure you guys can help me
out.
I have a 55 gallon aquarium with a cascade filter (Rated at 75 gallons)
heater, plants, eco complete, light, etc. Would it be ok to keep 3 common Plecos
(8", 6", and 4"), 6 cardinal tetras, 4 lemon tetras, several Cory cats, 4: 4"
killie fish, and 2 smaller tiger clown Plecos, and 6 Rams in this 55 gallon
tank?
< Go with everything except the two larger Plecos. They will dominate the bottom
of the tank and make life very tough on the other fish.>
PLEASE NOTE: These are fish I have already (in separate tanks) I know this sounds like an odd assortment, but I am trying to, umm... what's the right word
here... condense my collection. If this is not ok, please tell me the minimum
tank size in which I can keep these three Plecos.
<There are hundreds of different species of Plecos. Go to planetcatfish.com and
search for your Pleco to determine the total size. They will also have tank
recommendations too. Some of the more common Plecos can get very big.>
Also, at what temperature should this assortment be kept?
< Somewhere between 76 to 82 f would be fine. The rams prefer it on the high
end.>
BASICALLY, I am asking if 3 large Plecos will be ok to keep with smaller
tetras/cichlids!?
< Too much disruption from the larger fish.-Chuck>
Thanks in advance!!! Anthony
Adding Salt To a FW Tank 12/24/05
Hi, I would like to add some salt to my tank water to help my gravid female
guppy, but I don't know if my other fish can tolerate the salt. I have 4 zebra
danios and 1 mini Pleco (about 2 inches long) besides 3 guppies. Will the
danios and Pleco be harmed by the salt? Thank you, and great site!
< The Pleco will not like the salt but it can probably tolerate a little. The
others should be fine.-Chuck>
Plecos not surviving... in a ten gallon tank 10/7/05
Hello,
<Howdy>
We have a 10G freshwater tank with an AquaClear filter and two aerators. It contains five Giant Danios ranging in size from 2" to 3.5".
<This is too much for this ten>
The pH is ~7, nitrates 10 or below and temp is ~78. We do a partial water change every week/ten days and clean the filter at the same time. The environmental conditions described above are quite consistent.
We had a Pleco, two Sailfin Mollies and two Angelfish when we first set-up the tank about a year ago. The Angel fish died within weeks.
<Ten gallons is too small to keep angels, or most "Plecos"... most species
get too large, starve...>
They seemed to be too slow for the Mollies who hogged the food. We eventually replaced the Angel fish with two Giant Danios. The Mollies lasted for about six months but the Danios have flourished. We added three more Danios to the tank to form a community and they have done really well. The
initial Pleco kept growing and got to be about five inches before it abruptly passed away a couple of months ago.
<Sigh>
The algae had started to show a fair bit (compared to before) in the tank so we figured the water quality had eventually declined. We did a full tank clean-up, scrubbed excess algae off the decorative rocks, walls and synthetic plants. Again the Danios are doing great and the water stats are stable. However we have had three baby
Plecos since then and they don't last beyond three days with the last one departing today. I noticed today the under belly of this Pleco was green. We feed the fish flake food three times daily and blood worms every two-three. There are always flakes that sink to the bottom and there is mild visible algae. The clerk who sold the latest Pleco suggested they might not be getting enough food but the previous Pleco survived and grew for months on the
same amount of subsistence.
Please advise as we fell quite badly about the Plecos not surviving and our clueless about the cause of
their demise. My understanding is that Both Giant Danios and Plecos alike are very hardy fish which is certainly true for our Danios!
<Fishes have differing requirements, tolerances... If you're happy with the ten gallon tank, I'd try a Chinese Algae Eater... Bob Fenner>
Thanks, AJ
Fish Mates for a 12Gallon Tank 07/02/05
Fish-A-Roonies,
<Yes>
I have had plenty of time to think, almost two weeks now, while my new Eclipse
System 12 has been cycling. I really only have one question and I have
researched this to the hilt, but unfortunately I can not come up with my own
conclusion of what fish to stock in my tank. My tank currently boards two
Common Pleco's.
<These get too large for your twelve gallon system>
I would really like to have a violet goby, but I know this is probably not a
good idea seeing how the violet goby are brackish water fish, and I would never
want to hurt them. Is there any type of fish that is fresh water that I can put
something similar to the violet goby in my tank and/or what else should I stock.
<...? Something similar?>
I know the common rule of thumb: 1 inch for every gallon.
<Actually, better to think of cubic inches...>
If you could please list several types that would live with my Pleco's that
would be great. They are my favorite and I want to make sure their mates will
make them happy and vise versa.
Thank you,
Chris
<Time to send you back to WWM to study... the goby is not freshwater as you
state... your catfish are misplaced. Bob Fenner>
Sailfin Pleco
Hi WWM,
I found the link that you sent very useful, thanks. I have found that I had a
sailfin Plec. Is this species able to tolerate a cooler environment with
coldwater fish as mine seemed happy for the few weeks we had him but we lost him
quite suddenly. He had been feeding well on algae in the tank & we were also
feeding Hikari algae wafers. I am in the process of trying to assess
the water quality & wonder if there are pointers I should be aware of, & if they
are more susceptible to any particular disease. Many thanks again
>>Hello Lisa, That is a very strong fish, I would not worry about it getting
sick. I would keep the temperature above 72 degrees Fahrenheit. Good Luck,
Oliver. Tank size, salty Plecos, FW book recommendation
Wow, that was really fast! Thank you so much for the reply, I will get the kit tomorrow hopefully from
PetSmart, I live in Texarkana, Texas which is a small town in east Texas, you may have seen the movie the Town that Dreaded
Sundown which was a true story that happened here in the sixties, it was a low budget movie about a serial killer, that movie pretty much shows how small this
town is but it's getting much bigger. PetSmart just opened in January and there are only two other pet stores that carry fish supplies here that are pretty
small and do not carry hardly any fish supplies so thank god we got the PetSmart! Thank you for the info on the
Plecos and the violet goby. What size tank
should I purchase to house them in?
<At least a thirty gallon>
Can the Plecos be housed with the goby and can the Plecos handle brackish water?
<Can tolerate some salt, but most species are best kept in salt-free circumstances (most tap/source waters do have some salt content... combinations of metals and non-metals...>
Sorry for more questions! Also, could you recommend a good book for me that would contain like all the information
like meds and maintenance on these fish?
<I wish... maybe see Amazon.com, read their reviews re what others consider most complete and up-to-date... In the meanwhile I and Sabrina here are cranking out such a title>
Thank you so much, I know your time and info are very valuable to me and many others!
<Glad to share. Bob Fenner>
A Pair of Plecos
Hi, I have a pair of Plecostomus which are both now between 7 - 8 inches
long. They are in a 4ft (48in) by 1.5ft (18?in) tank. I think they are of the
common variety, though I'm by no means sure. Is this tank big enough for them do
you think? I am a little concerned as they make so much mess that even my 2
filters (Fluval 4 Plus, Fluval 3 Plus) struggle to keep up with it. They share
the tank with 11 smaller fish (5 neon tetras, 4 danio, 2 clown loaches). I am
doing 20 - 25%water changes every 1 -2 weeks. Thanks!
Rachael
<Hi Rachael, Don here. I think that's a 75 gallon tank you have there. A nice
size for this pair of plecs. But they can grow to over a foot, sometimes to 18
inches! At that point the 75 would be very cramped. But they grow slower as they
mature, so you are fine for now. And they are big waste producers! I would do
water changes more often. If you test your water adjust your schedule to keep
nitrates under 20ppm. Always use a gravel vac to remove the poop that settles.
No amount of filtration will get it all. Another good reason for more water
changes>
Big Pleco in a New Tank
Hello there. My name is Dayna and I have recently found your very helpful
website. <Thank you> I was wondering if you could answer a few questions that I
have? <Fire away> My husband and I recently (3 weeks ago to be exact) set up a
55 gallon freshwater aquarium. We only have a large 11" Pleco and no other fish.
<That's a big Pleco to add to an uncycled tank> We are having a little problem
with the ph. We bought Sodium Biphosphate recommended by our local fish store.
It seems to work that day, but then the next couple of days the ph goes back to
7.6. <7.6 is not out of line unless you plan on keeping fish that require a more
acidic level> Do you have to add this stuff daily? Is it toxic to the fish? Or
could the ph problem be because the tank hasn't completely gone through it's
"cycle"? <I would not add it at all unless the plan is for Discus or Rams. It is
far, far better to get fish whose needs match, or can adapt to, your local water
conditions. Once you change your pH you are committed to matching it with every
water change. Should the need to do a very large water change arise, being off
just a few tenths could cause pH shock. It's the swing in pH that kills, not an
"incorrect", but steady, level> Also, the Pleco seems to defecate quite a lot.
<Welcome to my world, normal for these large waste producers> I know that's what
we all gotta do, but could we be feeding him too much? We feed him one disc of
the algae food. <No, that's not a lot at all for an 11" Pleco. Too little, if
anything. Try giving him some fresh vegetables. A piece of zucchini, squash,
carrot etc.. Also offer a small raw shrimp a few times a month. Attach to a rock
and add at night. Remove leftovers in the AM. But wait until the tank is cycled
to start target feeding him> The bottom of the tank and the plants have quite a
bit of feces (looks very unattractive) even though we vacuum. But, when we
vacuum it also takes a lot of the water out and I was wondering if it's okay to
be taking out that much water that frequently? <Yes, in fact great! Small
frequent water changes have many advantages in the long run. However it will
slow down the establishment of your cycle. Keep them up so your Pleco does not
have to go through a major ammonia or nitrite spike. Having the ability to
easily do these frequent water changes is another reason not to mess with pH.>
One more question. Do you recommend air stones and how many? The local fish
store says that since we have the bio-wheel filtration <What size filter?> and
under gravel filtration, with power heads, that we don't need any. <I would
remove the UGF. They can have vast amounts of waste build up under them. If this
decays in a "dead" spot (no O2) a deadly gas can be released into the water.
They are also very hard to clean without tearing everything up and releasing the
junk into the water. Your bio wheel, if it is the correct size, will provide far
superior bio filtration than the UGF. The gravel vac will remove, not hide the
waste. As to adding airstones, no problem either way. If you have the proper
size filter they are not really needed, but can not hurt. I use two Emperor 400
filters on my 55 gallon Pleco tank and no airstones. My six Plecos do fine> Yet
I have read that it's recommended to have 5 air stones for a 55 gallon. <That
seems a bit excessive, but wouldn't cause a problem> Please help! We really want
to get some pretty fish soon but are too scared to add any. <Good, do not add
anything else yet. Check for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Do not add any more
fish until ammonia and nitrite spike and crash to zero, and nitrates are rising.
Until then daily partial water changes are called for. After your cycle is
established you can adjust your water changes to keep nitrates below 20ppm. Keep
your stocking level light. As you are seeing, that Pleco alone adds a lot of
waste to the water. Heavy filtration is called for, but NOT undergravel
filtration. Don>
Thanks!
Dayna
Zebra Pleco
Hello
I found a page you did on the internet about Plecos and was wondering if you had the time to answer a quick question. I am interested in getting a zebra
Pleco or two. I've been doing a lot of research on the fish and
have read a lot of contradictory info. on the pH range that is acceptable for
them. My question is this, what pH range can they tolerate?
<Let's see, how to put this... The wild-collected ones display a smaller
tolerance and prefer lower pHs... like 6.5-6.8... Captive bred and reared ones
have wider tolerance and a bit higher pH is okay with them... up to the low
7.'s...>
I live in upstate NY and the water is relatively hard and alkaline (I have a few
gold nuggets in a large tank where the pH is 7.6 and they are thriving and was
wondering if they zebras could live in this or if I would have to take special
care to lower the pH for them).
Thank-you
Jerry
<I would lower the pH for the new specimens initially... with organic acids
preferably... and a keen understanding and steady eye on an acidity/alkalinity
test kit as well as pH... Zebra's are generally much less "touchy"
than Gold Nuggets... so, if you're doing well with them... For all, if I were
interested in breeding these small Loricariid species, I would pre-prepare water
(likely reverse osmosis, then peat moss in a stocking/filter bag...)to use for
make up, changes...
Be chatting. Bob Fenner>
Tank construction
Hey Bob,
<Hello there>
I just discovered your website today and I found it very informative. I wish I
would have found it sooner, it answered a lot of questions that I had yet to
answer.
<Ah, good>
One thing that really was a surprise was the driftwood for the "Plecos".
<Yes, amazing how much, what "we" know collectively...>
I have two common's, a miniature (still 8"), and a Trinidad. I feed them
vegetables and sinking disks, but I have never heard of giving them wood. Is
there a certain kind that they need, and where would I get this (I live in
Dallas, TX, not much of an Oceanfront).
<Yes to these species definitely doing better with freshwater
"driftwood" of types sold in the trade (most hail from Africa or
Southeast Asia, but this is not important)... for food/digestion, decor/habitat,
and water chemistry modification... Look to your LFS or e-mail-order "fish
shops" for this material>
Also, I am looking at purchasing a freshwater dolphin. Can you tell me anything
about them. I can't seem to find any information on them. The one I saw at my
local fish store was about 10" long. How big do they get?
<A few Mormyrids (Elephantfishes, family Mormyridae) are called by this
common name. Check www.FishBase.org under the family name, and get ready to do a
bit of reading (201 species)... some of the species you'll peruse have images
associated with them... this is probably a Marcusenius or Mormyrus species...
likely to more than two feet long in the wild.>
You also had great information on the Arowana's. I recently purchased one for my
wife, and your section on them really answered all of our questions.
<Wow, surprising to me...>
I just got some information on a local group called "fish rescue". I
was wondering if you had heard about these groups and if you recommended joining
one.
<What is the gist of their purpose for being? Is this one of the Cichlid
family associations that hopes to save wild stocks genome from disappearing?>
On to the main reason for this email...........
I am interested in building several large tanks for myself, and then maybe
growing that into a business. There seems to be little information available on
this subject. Are there any books/websites available on this? I saw that this
was slightly covered in your Aquatics Business section, but I had a few more
questions. Some questions I have are:
<Yes... about the best DIY website compilation in our interest is "Oz's
Reef"... you can find their URL on the Links pages of the
www.WetWebMedia.com site>
1. What is the best material to use? Plexi-glass?
<Hmm, actually marine plywood and glass for the viewing panels IMO for
function... looks, no-costs considerations thrown in: sure on the plexi>
2. Where can you get or order the wood to go around the glass?
<Most any large "hardware" store... if not in stock, they can order
easily>
3. The best adhesive?
<For the wood? Pre-made strips of fiberglass cloth, laminating resin... Along
with good size, type wood screws... and silicone rubber (just 100% of any
designated-use product) for the viewing panels for the wood/glass types...
Weld-0n solvents for the acrylic...>
4. How to calculate needed thickness?
<On the Oz'Reef site>
5. Any other concerns, comments?
<How much time do you/we have? Overbuild... make sure the stands for such are
level, planar AND strong... Give consideration to how you're going to maintain
these... perhaps build in overflows, definitely drains....>
I appreciate the help Bob and I can't wait to get your book, I just ordered it.
Keep up the amazing work.
<Thank you, with your help, I shall>
Thank you, Neal Weinstein
<Bob Fenner, who used to have a roommate with your last name...>
I need info on a fish
Hello Bob I have a problem,
<WWM crew member, Anthony Calfo in your service>
my son just came home with 2 gold fish and a
fish he calls (I don't know how to spell it, so I hope you know what I am
talking about) PLATASCUOMUS).
<yes, a tropical Plecostomus catfish...AKA algae eater>
I hope you know what I'm talking about. If you
do then my question is does this fish need a filter and air?
<yes, as all really do (without you having to do daily water changes) but
more so than the gold fish in this case>
I would be
grateful if you can answer me as soon as possible. I don't want to kill my
sons pets. he doesn't have much luck with his pets, they usually die on him
or run away.) Thank you so much. Have a great day. Mikey
<talk that little fella into bringing home books before livestock
<wink>. Conduct partial water changes (say 25-40%) daily with
dechlorinated like temperature water until you secure a proper aquarium and
filtration or trade the fish in, my friend. Anthony>
Newly Set Up Tropical Tank
Hi Guys!
<Well helloooooow, Lesley!>
You've kindly advised me before regarding our marine tank, however, this
time my query relates to my new freshwater/tropical tank (obviously, I am
working backwards - will be buying goldfish next!)
<I have an ant farm and some silly putty back-ordered for you instead>
Two weeks ago I set up a 15 (UK) gallon tank (Mirabella 70). The tank has built
in filters.
<novel idea...at least on paper>
It has live plants and last week I added 6 assorted platies (as advised by my
LFS). (As a matter of interest, the fish store I bought the tank from is using
their display model - of the same tank - as a
micro reef set up with two clowns and a few corals).
<which might indicate that they aren't the sharpest tools in the shed...OR...
that they are really talented aquarists>
Anyway, a few days before I got the fish, I noticed the beginnings of a
brown algal bloom on the plant leaves, decor and glass. I am assuming this is
part of the natural "cycling" process (as with the marine tank). Is
this correct?
<usually, yes>
As I have seen them eat algae from the leaves and as I have been advised to do
so by my LFS,
<they advised you to eat algae from the leaves too?!?>
I am under feeding the platies to encourage this "browsing"
on algae. No food reaches the bottom - it's eaten in seconds!
<sounds like normal feeding...food should never hit the bottom before active
community fish consume it... otherwise it is considered overfeeding... but I do
agree with your premise altogether>
However, although they have eaten quite a lot of algae from the leaves, the
plants still seem to be covered in it. I am worried that the algae will prevent
the plants from photosynthesizing (hope I've spelt that correctly!)
<do look into buying a small Otocinclus "catfish". Wonderful and
peaceful and HARDY scavenger that will correct this problem right quick>
Am I correct in assuming that the algae will start to recede once the
"cycling" process is over or do I have a real problem?
<correct...but necessarily before harm is done to the plants>
Is there anything else I can do meantime? (I have reserved two Suckermouth fish
at the LFS for when my tank is more "mature" - a zebra plec and a
"spotty" one - sorry, I was so taken by it's beauty I didn't catch
what it was called! It is black with small gold spots).
<hehe... I'm starting to have serious doubts about the advice you are being
given by your LFS...neither of the two Plecos that you have mentioned above eat
algae!!! Incredibly, you have picked two of the few exceptions in this family of
catfish. If you weren't informed that they are not obligate grazers...then you
were going to watch two expensive fish slowly starve to death from a nutritive
deficiency (it would take months...perhaps more than a year). The Peckoltia type
"Zebra" and the Panaque type "gold spot/nugget" eat an
extraordinary amount of meaty foods (bloodworms top the list) and are miserable
algae grazers. Do keep these two beauties... but still consider some real algae
grazers, the tiny Otocinclus, as well and promptly>
I would also confess that I am adding plant fertilizer (containing iron) as
advised by my LFS which I appreciate will be feeding the algae too!
<indeed>
I have read over your freshwater algae articles and FAQs but they don't seem to
relate to a newly set up tank like mine.
The only other fish I want to add are a shoal of neon tetras and a few
guppies.
<really an awkward mix...they like two very different water qualities. Best
to stick with the slightly hardened, slightly salted water for the livebearers
if the platies will stay (with the guppies)...or, run a more neutral to
soft/acidic water south American display for the tetras/catfish>
The platies are doing well and are swimming happily with all their fins
extended.
<excellent>
Any advice you could give would be much appreciated.
<OK... don't count on votes from the Russian or French judges>
Many thanks. Lesley
<with kind regards, Anthony>
Re: Pleco and driftwood
Can I use ocean driftwood in my freshwater tank if I've soaked it for a few
days, or do I need to purchase special driftwood from a store?
<It will need to be soaked a lot longer than a couple of days and it’s
recommended that you don’t use it at all. If it’s not fully cured (soaked
long enough) then it can leach into your water and affect several of your
readings, especially the pH. And you always run the risk of introducing unwanted
things into your tank when you use items that were wild collected.>
I am very new and inexperienced in the fish world....I've had this Pleco (a
small spotted common variety, cheap from a pet store) for a couple of weeks, and
so far it hasn't seemed to bother my 2 little goldfish. (My mom got them for my
daughter's birthday about a month ago, and I'm trying to keep them happy.) A
friend told me to get a Pleco to keep the tank clean, not knowing they have a
reputation for eating the slime coat off of goldfish. But so far, I haven't
given it anything besides a romaine lettuce leaf and peas. Is this enough?
<Only occasionally will a Pleco bother other fish. Just keep an eye on him.
As for feeding him, he will do much better if he gets algae to eat. If there is
none growing in your tank you can buy algae wafers that are inexpensive and easy
to feed. Lettuce doesn’t have a good nutritive value and the peas should only
be given occasionally. You can also feed him green beans (canned or thawed
frozen) once in a while.>
I have a 10 gallon tank with a filter and light, and am hoping not to have to
expand my set up.
<You will eventually need to and it may be sooner than you want. Goldfish can
get quite large and so can Plecos. And Goldfish can grow very fast.>
I don't have a local fish store, and the pet store guy wasn't too helpful. Any
advice is welcome.
<Hope this helps!>
Thanks. Erica
<You're welcome! Ronni>
Large Pleco and Plastic Liner
Hi,
My LFS has a orphan Pleco that is just huge, probably 18". I
don't have room for him at home but I work at the University of Washington, and
in the greenhouse they have a tank that I think might fit him. It is
a round pond about 7' in diameter and 30" high, holding about 700
gallons. It contains a giant Brazilian lily and about 5 large
Koi. The temp is kept between 21 and 24C, pH about
6.8. Water from the pond is pushed through a bead filter, then to a
container full of water hyacinth that do a great job of removing nutrients-- but
there is still a thick layer of algae all the way around the pound, hence the
need for a big hungry Pleco. The greenhouse manager likes the idea
but he is worried that the Pleco might gnaw through the liner, which I think is
probably 15 or 20 mil plastic. I know Pleco like to rasp
on driftwood but I think the teeth are well inside the mouth... do you think
this would be a problem?
<Not a problem. I would however provide a piece of sunken wood for this
catfish to gnaw on, hide under. Bob Fenner>
Thanks,
Brett
BIG Pleco! 10/28/03
Hi all,
<Hi, Pufferpunk here>
Thanks for your help in the past, I had an ordeal with a little puffer a while
back.
<I missed that post. Do you still have the puffer?>
I have a 10 gallon tank that I'm having difficulty keeping clean. The
water is always cloudy an often a bit smelly.
<Usually caused by high ammonia & not cycling properly.>
I am using both a Penguin Mini BioWheel filter and an undergravel
unit. The stupid BioWheel always gets stuck and won't spin, perhaps
due to accumulation of gunk, cleaning doesn't seem to help it spin
though.
<I never liked those filters. Love my AquaClears!>
I have those shiny stones in there instead of gravel.
<Gravel has more surface area for good bacteria to grow on.>
I have three fish in there. One 7" chocolate Albino Pleco (I
think he is full grown),
and two little catfish.
<Whoa! You're Pleco is way too big for that tank! He
belongs in at least a 55gal+.>
I just can't keep this tank clean. I do methodical water
changes. My temp is 78
degrees, and pH is around 7.0. Usually the Ammonia level is zero but
at the moment it is above 0, maybe .5 ppm or so. Nitrite is around
.25. I can't keep the waste from the Pleco from accumulating, I guess
there is not adequate filtration or something. Am I fighting a losing
battle??
<I definitely think so! Plecos are giant poop machines.>
If the Pleco is too big for the tank I will give it away to a good foster parent
with a larger tank.
<Good idea, find it a good, big home & I think your problems will be
solved. Most folks have no idea how large some Plecos can
get. I have a couple that are almost 12". Do an 80%
water change & add gravel substrate to the tank. You can always
put the larger stones on top or in one corner if you wish, but that may make it
difficult to clean the gravel.>
In the meantime, any suggestions?? I'm getting nervous about my
readings because I have used Amquel Plus and Ammo lock.
<Save your money & get rid of the Pleco. That is definitely not an
inch/gallon kind of fish!>
Thanks in advance, Frank.
<You're Welcome--Pufferpunk>
Re: Tank Water
Thank You for taking the time to answer. What is the proper cleaning methods for
a 10 gallon aquarium,
<When you do a water change, put the end of the siphon into the gravel and
siphon the gunk out of the bottom of the tank. Do only part of the tank each
time, because there are beneficial bacteria living in the substrate.>
and as I understand now that even though other fish may not have been affected
by dropsy that it is still in the tank, how do I ensure that the others do not
come down with this? I completed the antibiotic treatment even after the prior
fish died, is this enough or should I treat the water a second time?
<Hopefully the first treatment will be enough. Keep the tank clean and the
water quality high, feed the fish a variety of good-quality foods, and they're
less likely to get sick.>
How much gravel should be in a 10 gallon tank, we currently have 1 bag from
where we bought the aquarium but it doesn't appear to be quite enough because we
cannot get decorations to stay down.
<Ah..."one bag" doesn't really tell me how much gravel you have, as
gravel is sold in several different sizes of bags. More gravel might help, or
you might put plant weights on the artificial plants.>
Our sucker fish has tripled in size, and is appearing to be way to big for the
tank at this time, how do we resolve that?
<Find someone with a larger tank, or return/exchange him at your local fish
store.>
Is there any suckers that stay smaller?
<For a 10 gallon tank, the only fish that will stay sufficiently small is an Otocinclus species, which are commonly called "Otos". An alternative
is algae-eating shrimp, aka Amano shrimp (after the guy who pioneered their use
in aquaria), with the scientific name of Caridina japonica. Best of luck with
the tank! --Ananda>
Back To The Future...(Starting Over Again!>
Hi, I'm just getting back into keeping fish after a 30 year layoff! A lot
has changed, for sure.
<It sure has! And the Chicago Cubs made it to the World Series, er...Oh- I
guess they didn't...Some things still have not changed...But hey, the
Undergravel filter is no longer the state of the art, anyways! And I miss those
metal-framed tanks, as I'm sure you do! Scott F. sharing useless commentary with
you tonight...>
Not only in the actual hobby, but in the amount of available knowledge. I've
spent the last month or so getting myself up to speed while starting a new fresh
water tank. Your site has been very helpful.
<Glad to hear that! We sure have a lot of fun learning and sharing
experiences together!>
Here's the set up. A 55 gallon tank filtered with an Emperor 400 with duel bio
wheels. I installed a small pump at the rear of the tank and at the opposite end
from the filter. It jets the water along the rear glass towards the filter
inlet. I put a small bubble wand along the side wall, on the pump side.
Substrate is about 1/2" of natural, dark pebbles, small "half
pea" size. No UGF, I use a vacuum to do my water changes. Landscaping
consists of 2 pieces of driftwood and about 10 slate caves. No live plants, but
3 plastic to hide the hardware. I added 13 Zebra Danios to start the cycling. 3
died during the process, but the other 10 are very active.
<Glad to hear that. I love Zebras- just great all around fish, and fun to
watch!>
I do 10 gallon water changes twice a week. This keeps the nitrates well below 20
with the small bioload now in the tank.
<Love you...>
I added one small algae eater, an Otocinclus species. Ammonia and nitrites have
stayed at zero since the cycle completed. I'll increase the water changes if
needed as I slowly add QT'ed fish. (See, even old dogs can learn!) Water tests
at 120 ppm for hardness and a ph of 6.8.
<Sounds good!>
Plan is to house a breeding colony of one of the small Plecos on the market
today. Nothing over 5" or so. The Queen Arabesque (L260) for example. 3 to
5 adults. I'm not looking to go commercial, but I feel strongly that it is
better to breed than capture when dealing with any wild animal.
<Whenever possible! I agree>
So I want to give them everything they need to breed and hopefully pass the
genes along.
<Excellent>
Of course this is going to be one boring daytime tank if that's all I put in it,
so my question (finally) is about tank mates. I would like a group of colorful,
active fish to liven up the tank. I was thinking livebearers, but a thought
occurred to me. Would the Plecos benefit from an egg scattering species that
would supply them with a protein rich "live" food? If so, can you
recommend a common species? (Remember the "pass the gene thing"?) It
would have to be a type that would be unlikely to turn the (dinner) tables on
the Plecos should they breed. Just seems to me that if I'm going to be feeding
them, they might as well help feed and condition the Plecos. Just like keeping
guppies or swords with small cichlids. Of course I would not count on it as a
steady food supply, just a supplement to the meaty diet I would supply. Don
C.
<Well, Don- I'm not overly confident in them supplying a food source to the
Plecos, which are essentially herbivorous, but there certainly is no reason not
to have some small, colorful fishes to bring some life to your tank. Sure,
livebearers will fit the bill, but I am a big fan of tetras and rasboras. If you
can get some nice Cardinal Tetras and/or Harlequin Rasboras, you'll get some
great small fishes that will add color and interest, and-who knows- maybe a
spawn or two! Yep- these little guys rock, IMO! Good luck in your
venture...Welcome back! Regards, Scott F.>
Moor Root?!
Do you know what moor root is?
<Well, I could be wrong, but I think this is just a European way of saying
bogwood. A moor is a vast boggy heath, basically, and I imagine
"moor root" refers to sunken, waterlogged wood/roots. Bogwood. Driftwood.>
I read about it in the Aqualog catalogs. I have a 75g Pleco tank and
I would like to have some in my tank.
<Indeed, bogwood is of great importance to the diets and overall well-being
of many plecs.>
I've asked people in my area no one knows. PLEASE HELP! Also
where do you think I can get some living in Tampa?
<Any local fish store, most likely. Ask about bogwood/driftwood
instead of moor root, though, unless you're visiting London for your wood! ;) Or,
if you're feeling adventurous, you can collect/clean/prepare your own. Have
fun! -Sabrina>
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