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FAQs on Bichirs and Ropefish, Family Polypteridae
Systems
Related Articles: Bichirs,
Related FAQs: Bichirs, Polypterid Identification,
Polypterid Behavior,
Polypterid Compatibility,
Polypterid Selection,
Polypterid Feeding,
Polypterid Disease,
Polypterid Reproduction,
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Polypterus senegalus, sys, comp. 9/5/08
Hi all,
<Ave,>
I have a question regarding Polypterus senegalus; I've been doing my research
and am getting some mixed reports and as always I like to talk to someone in the
know!
<We'll do our best.>
I recently saw a trio of albino Polypterus senegalus in my LFS and have fallen
in love - I've been wanting some for a while now and at only 4" I would love to
have one to grow on. I intend to get a set-up for them (hopefully an African
style one with either some reedfish/dwarf spiny eel - I know they're Asian!
<There are Spiny Eels in Africa, both the rivers and the lakes, so you're not
really cheating!>
but fire eels and tyre tracks are way too big - an African butterfly, a bush
fish or three - get mixed reports about these guys in groups too - any
suggestions? - and maybe some Congo tetras).
<All should be fine; P. senegalus is relatively peaceful.>
Now the problem is this; my boyfriend has promised to make me a set-up (well
build the cabinet so I can house a couple of tanks in one unit) for the species.
Because I'm so excited and the senegals are small, I was going to keep them in a
two foot for a few weeks - a quarantine if you will - while the new set-up is
created. I had intended a 4'x18"x18" tank for them. I also wanted 2 senegalus;
is this unwise and should I get only the one? Or will 2 be ok?
<Two youngsters will be fine in that take for some months.>
I've read of people mixing different poly species together, but not sure what
sizes etc these are being kept in.
<Polypterus are snappy about their caves, so each fish needs its hiding place.
But they're not otherwise known for being aggressive.>
Will 2 senegalus cause chaos?? What is the ideal tank size, and I'll attempt
some negotiations!
<You should be fine; if the ultimate tank is going to be fairly large, I'd
actually get three specimens: there's less chance of bullying, because no one
fish can be picked on all the time.>
Thanks
Jo
<Cheers, Neale.>
Re: Ornate Bichir; diet, social
behaviour... comp., sys. 8/8/08
Hello again, sorry for sending so many e-mails...
<Getting used to it!>
You mentioned in the previous e-mail that Oscars are good companions, yet when I
read the FAQ and profile section for the Oscar, they seem to be rather
aggressive. The Ornate Bichir is hardy, but I'm not sure if the Oscar will
constantly pester the Bichir, as it is slow compared to the Cichlid. I'm also
not sure if the 120 litre tank can hold the Oscar when it grows larger (not sure
how fast they grow).
<Oscars are territorial and aggressive when spawning. And by community fish
standards, they're entirely unsuitable for maintenance with, say, Angelfish! But
for a big fish they are relatively docile and work perfectly well with anything
they don't view as either food or a rival. They mix well with large, peaceful
Polypterus spp.>
Also:-
<Hmm...?>
"Oversized and tough are by-words here. Oscars are messy fishes to put it
gently... and destructive toward objects like siphons and tubing in their
systems. Outside power filters (more than one) are fine IF they are of the type
that pull water into their boxes (versus gravity fed siphons), and even these
are better retrofitted with suction cups on their in-tank parts. Canister
filters of good design are fine, but must be regularly (as in weekly) removed
for cleaning. Ideal arrangements for Oscar systems include outside sump type
filtration fitted with external pumps and internal overflows and returns.
Whatever mechanical means you set upon, make the filtration easy to maintain and
over-size in terms of capacity and flow."
<All pretty accurate.>
"Heaters, filter parts, tubing... are all just play things to Oscars. Hide,
remote, attach with suction cups... anything you want to stay in place... for a
while."
<Yep.>
From the article on your website, they seem to cause problems with the filter
equipment. The 120 litre tank I have is run by the "bubblelator" and box filter
system with a UV light attachment, that means the Oscar will/might disturb my
filter system right?
<Oscars will move/uproot/destroy anything they can. Partly its territorial, and
partly its curiosity. In any case you need to use robust equipment and put as
much as you can *outside* the tank. For example external heaters that you add to
the external canister filter return tube works better than sticking a glass
heater inside the tank.>
Also you mentioned medium sized Severums would be good as well, Heros Severus is
quite peaceful from the article and it seems relatively well sized as well as pH
range, good to keep with Ornate Bichir?
<Would be ideal. Other Heros species likewise, such as the amazing 'Rotkeil' (or
"red head") Heros appendiculatus if you can find it. Traded but expensive here
in England. But stunning fish.>
Thanks.
- Gene
<Cheers, Neale.>
Ropefish, Really not a Brackish Fish 3/18/07
Hello everyone,
<Hi Andy, Pufferpunk here>
I want to start by thanking you for providing such a valuable resource to
fish/aquarium enthusiasts like me!!
<We try our best!>
Here is my issue: I am in the process of transferring my Colombian Sharks to
brackish water in a 55gallon tank with 2 emperor 400's for filtration. The
water parameters are great except for the hardness. I'm not sure what the exact
measurement is but the hardness is very high. I have been slowly adding salt to
raise the salinity and it is still very low (1.007 sg). In this tank I have: 2
Colombian sharks (only about 3 inches each), 2 spotted puffers, and 2
mollies. All the fish seem to be doing well. Then, I added a ropefish and he
died within 3 days. When dying, he was jerking violently around and then
pausing, jerking again, pausing. He did this until he was dead. It was very
sad. Thinking it may have just been a sick fish to begin with, I went and
purchased another to replace him. I have been doing 25% water changes bi-weekly
because I know the aquarium is not established yet. Two days after getting the
second ropefish, I purchased another from the same
store to give the second one company. Now, the ropefish purchased after the
first one died had just done the same thing (jerking violently, laying on his
back, dying, etc). I noticed what looked like some blood marks on his stomach
also. He then died. Anyway, needless to say, I'm quite distressed at these
poor guys dying and now feel it is something I'm doing wrong. I'm pretty sure
the 3rd ropefish is next unless something is changed. Please help! Any advice
is greatly appreciated! Again, the other fish are doing fine.
<It sounds to me like the fish are suffering from osmoregulation problems, from
being placed in brackish water. Did you do a very long acclimation? Ropefish
are generally considered a freshwater fish & are best kept in
freshwater. Raising any fish from FW-BW requires a slow drip acclimation of
raising the container they are in by .001/hour.
I hope you are aware that eventually you will need to upgrade the fish you
already have, to a much larger tank. The GSPs require a minimum of 30g
each. The Columbian sharks can grow to 18" & require at least a 125g tank
(which actually is only 18" wide). ~PP>
Thank you again for your assistance, I do appreciate it.
Andy, Cincinnati, Ohio
Gravel in Polypterus Tank 2/19/07
Hi,
I am setting up a new 75 gallon for my 7" Bichir (Polypterus delhezi).
Much ado is made in some forums about Bichirs and ropes needing to be on sand,
other references say fine gravel will do.
<Both can/do>
Your website says dull gravel is okay for these fish.
<Yes... color-wise I think this shows them off best>
My question is about gravel size. The Bichir is currently on 1-2 mm gravel. I
would really like to use larger gravel in his new tank. This would be easier to
vacuum.
<Ahh. Yes>
Are the dangers from gravel blockages in these fish exaggerated?
<Mmm, I do think so... "this too shall pass" generally>
It rather seems that bigger gravel would be spit out and smaller gravel pass
through and the danger might be from mid-sized stuff. I have on hand some 3-4 mm
gravel and some 5-10 mm gravel. Would either of these be okay to use?
<IMO/E, yes>
I don't want to find out the answer by losing the fish! I was also thinking of
feeding him on a plant saucer so he wouldn't be picking his food out of the
substrate.
<Good idea, technique.>
Some foods would drift out but heavier stuff like pellets would stay in. I
really like this fish and don't want do endanger him.
Thanks.
Tamera
<Are neat animals... Bob Fenner>
Rope Fish Tank Size 9/15/06
Hello,
<Hi Ren, Pufferpunk here>
Just wondering, I have a rope fish (around 4 inches long, male) with
two African clawed frogs (pretty small themselves at the moment,
maybe 1 and a half inches) in a 20 gallon tank. I know the tank is
gonna be small in the long run but they seem to be doing fine for
the time being. I was just wondering, what size tank should I save
up for?
<Since these are social animals, they are best displayed in multiple
numbers together. I would keep at least two to a tank. That being
said, I'd save for at least a 40 gallon tank. I'd keep the frogs in
the 20g. They get large (around the size of your fist) & will eat
anything they can fit into their huge mouths! ~PP>
Thanks a lot, Ren.
(P.S. He has dens/caves too)
Polypterus
Dear Mr. Fenner:
I'm very interested to acquire some Polypterus but I don't know
where can I found some photos of them biotope, because I love the
"biotopical aquariums". I have a 450 Liter aquarium, a 2500 liter/hour
external filter. How many Polypterus can I breed in ??
Thank you for advanced:
Xavi
Well... if really interested... would encourage you to do something in the way
of a scientific literature search. You're welcome to the input about such
searches posted on the site: Home Page ...
Otherwise, an old, but still valuable source is Gunther Sterba's works on
freshwater fishes. Do a look-see through the "used" book sources on
the net for these.
Bob Fenner
Polypterus
I have a few questions on the ornate Bichir. What kinds of foods do you
recommend feeding them?
How long is there lifespan? How large do they grow? What the water temperature
should be and the PH?
Thanks,
MIKE >
Meaty foods of appropriate (mouth) size. The Polypterus I used to keep I mainly
fed larval beetles (meal worms etc.), earthworms (oligochaete), and cut meat
like cubes of beef heart.
This species (and others) live several years... the biggest ornatissimus I've
seen is about eighteen inches. Some other Polypterids grow to more than two feet
in length. Low seventies to low eighties F. is about right temperature. pH about
neutral is best in my opinion as their water tends to go acid (which it is in
the wild) with aging.
Bob Fenner
Ropefish setup question
Hi Bob,
<Hello Bryan>
I somewhat impulsively purchased a Ropefish (Erpetoichthys calabaricus, ID'd
thanks to your excellent page on Polypterids). The folks at the
pet store told me that he ate regular tropical flake food (which I was skeptical
of but I guess I really wanted to fish) I've had mixed success raising fish that
require live food in the past.
<Yes... I'd like to see the people who told you this live on flake food for a
while>
Anyway, not knowing what to do, I bought some cubed freeze-dried Tubifex. He
doesn't seem terribly interested in these, even when I hold them in front of his
face. I wedged them under some rocks and they stayed put for about 20
minutes before floating. I don't want to just leave them in there if
he's not going to eat them.
<Not likely to accept... You might try some earthworms if you can dig them
up, buy them from a "fishing store", or mealworms... or chunks of cut
up beef...>
So my question is, can you describe a setup for feeding these
guys? Are we talking live worms in a feeding cone?
<Larger worms, cut meats (once accustomed to the latter they take same with
gusto>
Is it best to feed them at night or in the morning?
<Toward dark is best>
Do they prefer their food near the surface or at the bottom?
<The bottom>
Is there anything I can put in the tank in the way of habitat (pipe,
whatever) that might make him happy and ease the feeding situation?
<Like plants, driftwood, perhaps a bit, length of plastic pipe>
Any help you can render will be greatly appreciated by me and, I presume, my
Ropefish ;)
Happy holidays!
<You as well my friend. Do try the live worms, mealworms (larval beetles) for
now... training the Rope on to cut meats. Bob Fenner>
Bryan
Bichirs
Hi
I recently just found your site. I had a few questions about Bichirs
before I go out and buy them. I currently own a 20 gallon freshwater
tank. The only current resident in that tank is a freshwater
moray. I have added some aquarium salt to the tank to alleviate any
problems he's had with breathing. I'm currently interested in turning
this tank into a brackish water tank and was wondering if Bichirs can cope with
brackish water. Also, what is the most active Bichir you can
recommend as I've heard the ornate Bichirs are very very shy. Are
there any other fish that would do well with these two species? Oh
and do you recommend any
equipment for a brackish water tank? Thanks for your time and I think
your website is great. Peter Kim
<Hi Peter, Thank You for your comments on the site! I would encourage you to
keep fish in conditions that they are evolved to.
Bichirs are freshwater tropical African fish. FW Morays are a
Freshwater/brackish/marine species. I would also be concerned with
keeping any of these species in a 20 gallon tank. Please type in
"freshwater moray" into the google search at WetWebMedia.com and also
see: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/polypterids.htm
to read about Bichirs. Take note of the water chemistry
warning! Craig>
My new Clown Knife & Ropefish
I just purchased a Clown Knife (about 6"). I put him in a 25 gallon hex
with a Rope fish and they seem to be doing fine. I've been told that both can
grow quite large. Do you think they'll be ok or should I return them.
<Return them....
My clown knife grew to a length of 25 inches long! It is now living quite
comfortably in a 650 gallon tank... It was originally living in a 150
gallon tank but outgrew that! The clown knife will reach 18 inches
long in about a year and a half, this fish will NOT be able to live in a 25
gallon tank.
As for the Ropefish (Erpetoichthys calabaricus) These fish will get over 36
inches long as adults... and require a 90 gallon tank. So, that to
will not be able to live in a 25 gallon tank.
I suggest you do some research before purchasing fish, there are many fish that
will do quite nicely in a little 25 gallon tank. Many of them are
just as interesting as these fish. Trust me it's no fun having a fish
that is in a tank to small for it. These fish are sick all the time,
and you have to constantly be changing the water to keep up with the waste
output. Good luck. -Magnus>
Senegal Bichirs problems
Hi all, I have / had 2 Polypterus senegalus 1 may have committed
suicide.
<Senegal Bichirs usually are survivors given the proper living conditions.
Though they are known for jumping out of a poorly sealed tank. They need quite a
large tank to keep them happy.>
I know they go after anything they can fit in their mouth but, would that also
include one of their own if it is smaller then the remaining 1 thanks.
<Senegal Bichirs are carnivorous critters. They feed on live foods
and dead meaty foods such as earthworms, mussels and
silversides. They do show aggression to their own species, especially
if you don't give each fish a cave or something they can hide in and call their
own. It's not out of the question for one of them to attack and kill
a competitor... Though, none of the ones I have worked with in the past had
killed and eaten another Senegal Bichir.>
Dave
<Hope that helped.-Magnus>
Ropefish
I live at college and all we're allowed to have is fish, so I decided
to bring my tank with my Ropefish and a few others. Recently, my
Ropefish escaped during the middle of the night.
<Very common... aquatic Houdini's...>
I'm not entirely sure
how, because I felt that I had covered the tank very well, but needless
to say, I've now closed practically every square centimeter of the tank.
Anyway, when I awoke in the morning, the janitor came by and said "Hey,
did anyone lose a lizard?" I followed him to a closet where he had it
sitting inside an empty Gatorade bottle (Poor thing). He was sitting in
a circle, so I had to cut open the bottle to let him out. I immediately
put him back in the tank, where he struggled for a while to remove some
whitish residue that had been building up around his head and part of
his body. Now though, he just sits at the top of the tank in a half
circle, with his head and tail end pointing downward, and his midsection
partially out of the water. Though it has only been a little under a
day since I found out about this, it would like to err on the side of
caution, particularly because I can't stand to see an animal die,
especially on what it most likely my error. If you have any
recommendations that you could give me, I would greatly appreciate it.
<I have seen many Ropefish incidents as you cite... among them my own. I would
leave the animal as it is for now, and hope that it recovers (many do). If yours
develops red sores and/or obvious fungal (white, mycelious) patches, I would
elevate the system temperature (to about mid 80's F.) and prescribe an
anti-microbial (likely a Furan compound). Bob Fenner>
Packin' In The Polypterids - 08/24/2005
Hi
<Hello.>
I've just acquired the two fish above,
<Polypterus ornatapinnis and P. lapradei>
both are approximately 9" and healthy looking specimens. They are in a 48 x 15 x
18 tank
<I assume this is in inches? This is FAR too small a tank for multiple
Polypterus, even small, without severe territoriality/aggression....>
with a few catfish and a school of 8 convict cichlids as well as 2 small (4-5")
senegalus.
<Four Polypterids.... in 55 gallons.... Not a great plan.
All the fish are healthy, greedy eaters, apart from the two new Polys. I've not
seen them eat yet after being in the tank for almost a week,
<Were these two quarantined prior to introduction?>
the senegalus are greedy eaters, constantly looking like a bag of marbles and I
was assured the ornate and lap where greedy too.
<Likely they are being prevented food by the existing P. senegalus, despite the
difference in size.... Possibly fighting/getting stressed after dark....>
I've tried offering lance fish, live earth worms, blood worm, prawns and catfish
pellets, I've offered food in the day and at night when the lights are out as
they are nocturnal fish, but I've still not seen them eat.
<There is serious conflict here; these animals very likely will not coexist with
any semblance of peace.... One or all may end up killed as they age/grow.>
Any suggestions on what to do?
<Remove the two newcomers, and when the two P. senegalus (still quite small)
begin to grow and show aggression toward each other, remove one. The only
Polypterus species I've heard regular accounts of peaceful groups is P.
palmas.... and even still, ALL Polypterids get too large in the long run for a
55g tank. Much to think about, here, I fear.... I do hate being the bearer of
bad news. Please read here for more: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/polypterids.htm
.>
Kind regards, Ashley Etchell
<Wishing you and your fishes well, -Sabrina>
Ravenous Ropefish, or Sick Cichlid? - 06/01/2006
I sent you the picture of the ropefish last week, and I was wondering if
they are aggressive towards their tankmates.
<Mm, no, not typically.... Though they will be capable of consuming slow,
small, or bottom-dwelling critters that are not too big to consider as food.>
I had two African Cichlids in a 40 Gal, and I introduced the ropefish about a
week ago. I woke up this morning and one of the Cichlids (about 2"), was dead,
and the ropefish was chewing on him. I was just trying to figure out if he
could have killed him, or if something else caused the death of the cichlid.
<Likely something else, unless this ropefish is quite large.>
The cichlid seemed a little listless for a couple of days, then seemed to be a
lot more energetic, was eating more, and then suddenly he was dead. He had
started staying in the same area as the ropefish for the last day or so. Just
trying to figure out what is going on, as if there is something wrong with the
water, I want to fix it before I subject others to it.
<Definitely test for pH, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. Also remember that
African cichlids are territorial and can be aggressive to one another. One last
thing to keep in mind, African (Malawi/Tanganyikan) cichlids and Polypterids
have quite different requirements for water. I would not consider keeping this
mix; Polypterids tend to prefer water with a pH of 7.0 or below, whereas Malawi
and Tanganyikan cichlids require a pH closer to 8.3 or so, which is just too
high for Polypterids.>
Thanks you so much! Nick
<I hope all goes well! -Sabrina>
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