RES with tail and heel problem 11/09/08
My 13 year old brought a RES home, she has had it for the past 2 months. In the last few days we have noticed that Freddy was having a problem with his feet and tail. By the third day the tail seems to be enclosed within a bubble that stretches all the way down the tail with only about an inch that is not infected. Under the pads of his back feet there also seems to be this same bubbles, for lack of words things. We have also noticed that there is a red tinting to the skin area under his tail and also the bottom of his shell. He is eating well and still very active, which leads us to believe that it is not septicemia. We have been researching the Internet all day and have not come up with a conclusion. So, we decided to take him out of the water for a few days. He will be placed back in the tank for feeding. We are unsure of his age but his shell is about 5 inches long and 3 1/2 inches wide If you have any insight on what this condition could be could you please help us. Oh I think this may be an important fact until today I didn't know that we were supposed to include fresh greens and meats in his diet. The only thing that he has been eating is Tetrafauna ReptoMin baby pellets which was sold to her at the pet store. Once again if you can please help.
Sandra
<Sandra, I would recommend that you take this poor animal to a vet. He's at the point where without appropriate treatment, suffering and a painful death are around the corner, but if you do the right things, he'll be fine. I'm a bit concerned that the issues are dietary and environmental. Why? Because you have only fed the thing pellet foods, which are about the worst possible staple food for terrapins. As you seem to be aware now, these animals need a lot of fresh greens (50-75% of their diet). Without these green foods, they cannot be get the vitamins they need. Redness is typically associated with external and/or systemic bacterial infections, and that's what I am fairly sure is going on here. External bacterial infections can be caused by poor environmental quality, particularly dirty water. Terrapins need water that is clean (i.e., filtered) and regularly changed (at least 75% weekly). Otherwise the ammonia in the water causes problems akin to Finrot in fish. Next up, many people ignore the need terrapins have for UV-B light. You cannot keep these animals healthy without a UV-B lamp: do you have one? Lack of vitamins and UV-B (for vitamin synthesis) are two of the most common reasons terrapins get sick. A vet will likely prescribe an antibiotic to treat the redness and administer a vitamin booster shot to get the terrapin into good health. It's a shame children find terrapins appealing pets: they are EXTREMELY poor pets for children, being expensive to maintain properly. Choice of a pet should NEVER be up to a child, as they have no concept of responsibility and animal welfare. It's now up to you to provide the things the terrapin needs and to take it to a vet. The alternative is allowing an animal to suffer, which of course no right thinking adult would do. But a child can't grasp these issues or the expenses involved, unless the parent lays them out beforehand. Good luck, Neale.>

Red eared slider (eye infection?) 11/2/08 I was wondering if you can help me please. I work on a cruise ship and 3 years ago a crew member brought a red eared slider onto the ship and he was passed onto 3 different owners as the crew members changed contracts. I looked after him from December 2007 till July 2008 and when I left the ship I asked my roommate to look after him. While I had him I bought him a new tank because he was living in such a small tank he could hardly turn round in it never mind swim. Then I bought the UV light for him and I used to take him onto deck to get some sun. I would change his water every 2 or 3 days because we didn't have a filter or heater for it. He was healthy as far as I know. He had a good appetite and swam fine and crawled around the room all the time. I recently joined a new ship and met up with my old ship last week. I went on to visit him and was horrified when I saw him. His eyes were so swollen and he was hardly moving so I stole him and brought him to my new ship. I went to a vet that day but they did not specialize in reptiles so they gave me neo-poly-bac to put on his eyes. I have tried putting that on his eyes for the last week every 4 hours but there has been no change - he was still trying to open his eyes for the first 2 days I had him back but since then he hasn't opened them. I stopped using the ointment yesterday and tried putting cod liver oil on his lids last night and this morning. He wasn't eating last week but he has started eating but he will only eat tomato, tuna and turkey - no greens or pellets even if I soak them in tuna water first. He is a lot more active now and wanders around the room when I let him out of his tank. He is still quite lethargic though. His skin is slightly pinkish and some days is more pink than other days. I keep his tank around 80 degrees and change his water 3 times a day because I have no filter. I have read as much as I can on the internet but I am at a loss of what to do now. I cant take him to the vet because I cant take him off the ship again. I don't know the cause of his infection but I believe it must be a bacterial infection caused by poor nutrition, bad water conditions and possibly chlorine in his water from the ships taps. I doubt he was washed at all and by the state of his tank when I found him I don't know how often it was cleaned out. He may have an internal infection which could be what is causing his eyes not to get better because its not an eye infection but I don't know. I am trying my hardest to make sure he is getting better and there has been an improvement but I don't know how to help him now - I also don't know how long his eyes have been like that because when I asked the person looking after him he told me they were always like that. They definitely were NOT always like that. He is only 3 and a half. Is there anything you can suggest to do. I have access to a doctors onboard if there are any antibiotics that humans take I can give him. I can get to a vet on Wednesday. Please please help me or inform me of anyone who can help me. I would really appreciate it if you could help me out. I really love my slider and I'm planning on trying to take him home with me at the end of my contract to give him a proper life. Thank you for reading this email and possibly replying. <Hello. It does sound as if your turtle has a bacterial eye infection. I'd also check to see if he wheezes when breathing or there's any runny stuff coming from the nose: often when turtles are weak they get respiratory tract infections as well. The good news is these are all treatable, and if the turtle is still a healthy weight and prepared to eat, then you still have time to turn things around. Obviously consulting with a vet trained in reptile medicine is the best thing, but failing that there are multiple things any vet, or even a regular doctor, can do. Do read these two articles for a quick summary, and feel free to print them off and share with your shipboard doctor. http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/turteyedisart.htm http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/turtrespart.htm Essentially what you need to focus on is getting a Vitamin A injection, and then providing Vitamin A supplements in its diet until healthy, at which point a balanced diet will provide all the vitamins he needs. Because overdoses of Vitamin A are toxic, I'm leery of giving the dosage here: your vet (or perhaps MD) will be able to get this information themselves. They could start here: http://www.anapsid.org/resources/rxdose.html http://www.anapsid.org/vitamin.html Print these off and share with your vet or MD if necessary. Note that the amount of Vitamin A used varies by the weight of the turtle. Next up, you will want to use a course of antibiotics to help treat the infection. I hope this helps, Neale.>

Does this turtleneck make my shell look fat? – 10/10/08 Dear Crew; <Hiya Jeremy, Darrel here this morning> About a year ago I bought two Red eared slider baby turtles in Chinatown NYC and they were both about an inch big. The following day I went to my local Pet Land Discounts in search of a habitat in which to keep my turtles and I was asked if I would like to take home an additional 2 baby turtles that someone recently had dropped off to the store, I guess because they couldn't take care of them. <All too common a story. They look good a cute and cuddly when you first see them and then when you get them home they're dirty, smelly, no fun to play with and just bothersome. Hey ... wait a minute .... I just described my kids ..... lol> To make a long story short, I now currently have 4 baby turtles all ranging at various sizes. Like I said earlier, the two that I had purchased in Chinatown were exactly the same size (about an inch big) and the two turtles I had received for free from Pet Land were a bit bigger. The largest one was probably about 1-3/4" big and the other was about 1-1/2" estimating. At this point a year later, the turtle that was 1-3/4" inches (from Petland) is currently about 4 or 5 inches. The second largest (from Petland) is now about 3.5 inches long, and the 3rd largest one that I had gotten in Chinatown is roughly 2-1/2". The smallest one hasn't grown much, I would say he is about 1-3/4". <From the looks of the pictures, all of them are thriving! And yes, to answer the question you didn't ask, in any group of animals even with all things being equal and food, heat and resources equally distributed, some will still grow faster and stronger while others appear to be runts. This is natural and normal and the only thing you should be concerned about is that the runt does thrive ... grow at his own pace, eat, bask as needed, swim at times, etc. As long as he's healthy then being a runt is nothing to be concerned about.> Anyway, I have recently purchased a nice size aquarium tank (30 Long) at Petland Discount, as well as a floating rock, a Fluval 2 plus filter and I feed them regularly about twice a day, varying from pellets to krill or shrimp. <So far, so good. I'm sending a link with some dietary suggestions. In my experience, feed the Koi pellets as a staple and augment, purely as a treat, Nightcrawlers (worms) about once a month.> About a month ago I noticed that the 2nd largest turtle has a strange brown growth on his face. It almost looks like a big chunk of his face is missing! At this time I was traveling for work so I had almost no time to check it out, but now I see that the strange brown growth has enlarged. <From what I see in the pictures, Jeremy, the sore is on the folds of his neck, not his "face" per se. Please make sure we're looking at the same thing. Anyway, that brownish-yellowish goo (doncha just love these technical terms?) is essentially a scab that is covering a skin wound. The problem with a wound in the neck folds is that it's always in motion and never has a chance to firm up. Step one, sorry to say, is to remove him from what seems like a nice habitat and keep him separately. Some place dry and warm (no water) even such as a cardboard box (with HIGH sides, turtles are amazing climbers!) with paper in the bottom .. somewhere relatively warm. At this point, normal moisture is your enemy as it makes the wound area ripe for opportunistic infections. Get him out of the water, nice & dry and dab the area with Betadine (povodine, any iodine solution) each morning. Put him in a bowl or container of shallow water every other day in order to hydrate, defecate and possibly eat (but he's likely to but a bit too upset to eat -- don't worry about that). After a week of so of being confined with nothing to do and no reason to do it, the neck scab should start to darken and then shrink as the neck heals.> At first I thought that the largest turtle had bit him on the face/neck during feeding time accidentally or something but now I notice that the 3rd largest turtle has a tiny speck of skin missing from the back of his head. <Again, we're going to need more information here. The primary reason for neck/skin/fold wounds is simply abrasion -- they're rubbing against something rough and getting cut ... BUT ... and this happens far more than people think .. if the turtles are obese, their own neck folds will rub on their own shells with the same end result. Close observation should give you a better clue as to the reason.> I have a UV basking light that I use, I believe it may be a 60 watt bulb that is hovering over the floating dock. I was told that they obviously need lots of light and I was even told by 1 source that turtles need 3 types of light, a day light, a night light and one additional 1 I forget the name of. I do not keep the light on all day, at most I think we leave the light on for maybe 3 or 4 hours at night. <Turtles need heat and UV light. I use a normal 60 Watt light bulb over their basking area that is on from 7am until 8pm and a UV fluorescent bulb running the length of the basking area that is on the same hours. Again, check the article in the link.> <No night light unless they're scared of the dark -- or unless you have one of those true rare houses out on Long Island that really DOES have boogeymen!> The turtle that has the strange mark on his face is eating and swimming as normal. When I go to put food into the tank they all jump off of the rock and await their meals anxiously. They all seem to be functioning normal, I just don't know what this weird brown stuff is that is formed around the turtles face. I am enclosing a few photos. One photo in particular has all four turtles at once on the rock and the turtle on the left is the one in question. If you would like me to take more let me know. If you have any ideas or suggestions about what I should do please let me know as well. Thank you very much Jeremy <you're most welcome, Jeremy. Follow the treatment and write back and keep us posted! here is the care sheet link> < http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm >

Red Ear Slider -bottom heavy 9/21/08
We have 3 turtles. The one in ? is seven months old, 5"x3.5 (approx). The king/queen of the tank. This evening at feeding (pellets) the turtle was lagging. As though bottom heavy, have difficulty getting up on the larger out of water level rocks. We have had pea size gravel in tank - now removed. The turtle is still interested in food. Back legs seem to work labored, signs of difficulty holding stance to put face above water. The smaller turtles seem to be helping - boost up - (if you will) their mate. What can be causing this??? The shell looks fine, and all looks good as far as I can see - But TurTy is still running bottom heavy??? What can I do??? Will this pass if he ate stones???
Thanks for your time and attention.
<Greetings. Swallowing stones is not normally a problem. But if she has done this, and can't pass them, then you will need to see a vet. A simple x-ray will confirm the problem. However, I do wonder if this particular terrapin is a female, which is easily checked. Males have much longer FRONT claws than the females. If the claws are smaller than the flipper, it's a girl; if the claws are longer than the flipper, it's a boy. Furthermore, females have smaller tails than males, and the cloaca (the combined anal-genital opening) is much closer to the shell than the tip of the tail. There are some nice pictures here:
http://www.redearslider.com/determining_sex.html
Now, the reason I'm concentrating on sex is because females are prone to becoming egg-bound if they have the wrong diet and/or no place to lay their eggs. That would account of her heaviness and clumsiness. This is a fatal condition, and MUST be fixed quickly. If you suspect this to be the case, your terrapin is in much pain and distress, and needs help. Egg-bound females begin by frantically trying to get out of the tank: they're looking for somewhere sandy to put the eggs. A shallow dish of sand will do the trick, but if you miss the window of opportunity, the eggs can get stuck, and a vet will need to fix the problem, either surgically or by administering a hormone. Either way, YOU CAN'T FIX THIS YOURSELF.
http://www.redearslider.com/reproduction.html
It's a very common problem with terrapins kept indoors, and likely accounts for much (gruesome) mortality. In any case, a trip to the vet is in order, sooner rather than later. Cheers, Neale.>

Turtle in trouble 6/22/07
Wish I had a picture of my little guy, but when I caught him on my fishing trip (too curious for his own good...I think he'd have been bird food) He has 2 big black spots on his belly, and from what I've read that could have been healed shell rot?
<It could be, or just physical damage>
...but since I've had him he hasn't eaten very much that I can see, but he adapted pretty well to captivity....
<Well, eating well is more or less the first sign OF adapting to captivity>
I've had a Red Eared Slider before and he was a great guy with lotsa spunk and I never had any issues with him - he was killed by a hit and run driver when my friends little girl was playing with him in the front yard.
<As always, a hard lesson learned -- reptiles are not the kind of pets to let children (or adults) "play with)
I've used salt to clean strays that were brought to me to rid them of leeches, and w/this guy I soaked him in a warm vinegar water to rid the white algae/fungus thing that he had going on with his little feet.
<Inventive and resourceful>
But recently I noticed his belly was looking a bit sunken in and now the carapace (trying to sound like I know turtle talk) part of his belly that separates his front and back legs on the right side has developed light brown striation (lines) and they are only on these 2 sections on one side...but there might be gaps developing in the belly side of his shell, or I can just have an overactive imagination....but I do know that the center of his belly is very soft and I feel that if I scraped at it I could dig right through. So, if there is anything other than sunlight (which I was able to start this weekend) like home remedy style - something to help him out...he seems OK but I do hope to find a way to feed him better and get him more interested in food...
<Sunlight, vitamins and food are needed here, and quickly. You've started on the sunlight, which is good. Now let's add warm baths (not HOT) to perhaps stimulate his appetite. If you can, visit a local pet store and get some night crawlers (a kind of worm) and a Calcium supplement such as Repti-Cal. Put a small sprinkle of the calcium on a newspaper and then roll a worm in it -- then offer it to him after a few minutes in the warm water. This may take a few attempts to get him started. It's possible that he's too emaciated to eat and a trip to the vet may be in order.>
and also I had my first turtle death and it was a shocker... My friends nephews and nieces "rescued" a very healthy seeming fellow, ate all my plants, very active. Well - I went outta town and yesterday for no reason I could find he was a stiff little fellow, no sign of foul play or disease, though my original fellow seems relieved that he is no longer a lounge chair for his tank mate.
<It could be that the "intimidation" of a tank mate could be part of he feeding problem, but turtles are fairly durable and resilient animals -- a "Sudden Death" of a seemingly active and healthy animal could be an indication of something very serious in the husbandry... or a disease/infection.>
So, please just let me know what you can
<If it's at all within your means, I'd suggest a trip to the vet. We have too many different things going on here to be sure of anything. But failing that, the most important thing to try to do is stimulate his appetite. He needs Calcium and Vitamin D, both of which we can supply more easily once he starts to eat.>
...I understand the temp./light but don't know the reasons for this problem.
<Here's a link for a few quick turtle keeping hints
http://www.xupstart.com/WWM/quickturtleguide/index.html>
Thanks for your time
<I hope it helps, Yolanda>
whew I'm long winded, huh?
<Not at all, we here at WWM like to have details because they help us to help you. Regards, Darrel>

Red Eared Slider with possible fungus – 06/14/07
I have gotten a 5 inch Red Eared Slider, and recently I've noticed some white spots on his skin and shell. I looked it up and found out about Fungus infections, but I've also read that he could be shedding, which is activated by Overheating or Overeating and is mistaken by a fungal infection. But I'm not sure this refers to the shell.
<White spots on the skin are typical of fungus as are small white spots under the scutes and tiny white lines around the edges of the scutes.>
Also, a lighter portion of his shell has appeared, which makes me think that he is indeed shedding.
<As the scute gets ready to shed, it takes on a milky white appearance, so this could indeed be a shedding of the scute.>
But I still suspect a fungal infection because of the white spots.
White or gray spots or patches on the skin would support that. In normal growth, Red Eared Sliders usually shed their skin in small sections that are barely noticeable. If you begin to see larger patches of dead, gray skin, that's a typical sign of fungus.>
Any suggestions?
<Sure. Air, sun and treatment. First, take him out of the water and allow him to stay dry except for a short bath and feeding (about 5 minutes every third day). Second, try to see that he gets as much natural, unfiltered sunlight as you can. Third, treat the skin condition. Start with athlete's foot remedies such as Tinactin, Lotrimin, etc. or the generic equivalent -- look for the ingredient Tolnaftate or Clotrimazole (or any antifungal ending in "azole"). Apply it once a day to the effected areas and as always, keep them clean and dry and you should see a change for the better after about 5 days and the fungus gone after 14 days. Keep treating for a minimum of 7 days after everything looks fine. For the shell spots, I would wait until the rest of the treatment is started -- if it is the normal shedding of as scute, then no treatment is needed. After everything looks better, please pay close attention to his water quality. Clean water helps prevent infections>
Thank You very much,
<You're welcome, Jay.>
Jay Smith
<Darrel>

Red Eared Slider with Sloughing Skin  6/12/07
Hello,
<Hiya Kevin, Darrel here>
I have a hatchling slider that has just gotten over a respiratory infection. This was treated by subQ injections by a local vet every other day for about three weeks. The slider developed a slight redness on one of it's front elbows/shoulders where some of the injections were administered. This turned into what looks like a smooth round blister.
<There are two possibilities that come to mind, Kevin. The most obvious is a skin infection at the injection site, in which case the turtle should be treated by the veterinarian. The second is simply that some antibiotics such as Baytril have a burning effect at the injection site that can lead to some blisters and scars.>
The vet gave me some creme to rub on it each day. But this does not seem to have helped. In fact the area where the normal skin appears to be missing has doubled in size. Is there anything that can be done to halt the normal skin loss and help the slider to regrow her skin?
<The only thing I would add to the home treatment is to keep him dry except for a short bath & feeding each day. Wet skin promotes the growth of fungus and bacteria and slows healing. Try that and see if it helps. But if it doesn't help, or if the turtle appears in any other way to be SICK, I suggest you have him seen by the veterinarian as soon as possible>
Thank you for your assistance,
<You're welcome!>
Kevin

Re: Red Eared Slider with Skin Problem – 6/12/07
Thank you Darrel.
<You're welcome Kevin>
Baytril was what the vet used. I couldn't think of the name. Do you expect that the skin will grow back over the blistered or scarred area? Do you think Repti Wound would be of any use in this case?
<Kevin, if the turtle is otherwise healthy and active and we're not looking at things getting worse ... just keep him dry (except for a short daily bath & feeding) for a week or so. You can swab the sore with Betadine (or any other similar disinfectant from the local drug store) and let's see how he does. If the wound doesn't look better or begins to look like an abscess, it's time to see the vet again.>
Thanks again,
Kevin
 

Red-Eared Slider shells  6/4/07 Hello, <Hi!> I have searched your forum but have not quite found the information I am looking for. <I'll give you some search tips later> I have inherited a couple of Red Eared Sliders and it has been about 2 months that I have cared for them. I have provided the appropriate environment for them and have changed their diet to include Reptomin and ReptiCal, plus occasional krill and shrimp. <Excellent work!> Their shells have gradually developed a white area between scutes, around the edges and white spots in places. The color change is gradually doing away with the green color of the shell. Their shell appears to be hard and I clean them with Q-tips periodically. There is no problem with feeding or swimming. Any help would be appreciated. <Sounds like what we call "Shell Rot." It could be a bacteria or a fungus and there are many different treatments we can try. First, keep them out of the water temporarily except to eat and then dry off the shells after they eat -- whatever is growing there grows better in a moist environment so we want them to be basically dry. Don't worry about the turtles, at their small size they can go for a week without even being in water and they'll do just fine. Put them IN to bathe and eat ... then take them OUT & dry them off and treat them.> <Now, we're fighting two different issues (1) What is it? (Bacteria or fungus) and (2) Where is it? (Topical and easy to get to or under the scutes and hard to reach)> <Topical Bacteria is the easiest - You can try cleaning their shells with Iodine (Betadine, Povodine or other brand or type) and letting the iodine soak in and dry. You can paint their entire shell with it if that's more convenient. Just try not to get it in their nose, mouth or eyes but even THEN if you do it's not lethal to them. You should see improvement in 3 to 4 days and gone within 10 to 14 days.> <Fungus is next. If the Iodine doesn't improve things then we'll move to an antifungal agent. Start with the athlete's foot creams at your local drug store. Tinactin, Lotrimin, etc. or the generic equivalent -- look for the ingredient Toflanate or Clotrimazole (or any antifungal ending in "azole"). Apply it once a day to the effected areas and as always, keep them clean and dry and you should see a change for the better after about 5 days and the creeping crud completely gone after about 20 days. Keep treating for a minimum of 7 days after everything looks fine.> <If either condition is underneath the shell enough that our treatments don't reach them, we have to fewer options. Some people claim that Fluconazole, a generic antifungal tablet available in aquarium stores, puts enough concentrated medication into the water to get into a n animal's system and kill the fungus from within. I've never experienced that, but other people say it has worked. My main complaint is that after buying ENOUGH of the tablets for the concentration and length of treatment, you may have paid for a trip to a veterinarian which is always our best, but sadly most expensive, option.> Thank you, <You're most welcome, Nathan!> Nathan P. <OK -- now some stuff about searching our site: Go to our HOME page and scroll all the way down and you'll see a Google Search Box on the left. Click the box labeled www.wetwebmedia.com -- that SHOULD be the default position for that button, I'll have to speak to someone about that. BOB?????) <Unfortunately not Darrel... not of our doing, but Google for their Adsense software... Please refer folks to here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/WWMAdminSubWebIndex/question_page.htm for this option. RMF> after clicking that box, type the word "turtle" and "shell rot" (including the quotes) and you'll get a good solid page of references on our site about turtles, shell rot and suggestions on how to deal with it.

Care For New Baby Turtles
Good Afternoon, I wonder if some one can help me, I have recently brought 4 slider baby turtles.  And 2 of them have now got white spots on their shells.  There is nothing growing from these white spots but I am worried I am doing something wrong.
< Spots on the shells could be a the start of shell rot. If they are soft and cheese-like they need to cleaned out by a vet and treated with antibiotics. If they are hard and solid it could be something growing on their shell or just dirty water that has left a scum on them.>
We also have one that don't seem to want to eat and has been doing nothing but "sunbathing" but his shells has become dry. Can you please help me? Regards Lisa
< Check the temperature of the basking spot. It should be at least 85 F. if it is too cool you need to move the heat source closer or get a bigger basking lamp.-Chuck.

Little Turtle Will Not Eat  - 05/02/07
My little RES is not eating. He sits in the basking light all day and rarely goes in the water. He has been like this for two weeks now and we were getting worried about him so I found this food called Repta-Aid. We have been force feeding him for about 4 or 5 days now and he won't open his mouth for the food. Also when he basks his head will bob and his eyes will close. We have another baby RES turtle in the tank with him and the other turtle is doing fine. We have a filter for the aquarium too but it's not doing much. If you can please help us we don't want him to die! Thank you! Bree
<Your turtle is sick and is trying to warm himself up under the light. The basking site needs to be at least 85 F. Get a bigger light or move it closer to warm him up. Do not force feed him. If he is not warm enough the food will sit in his stomach and rot. This will cause more harm than good. Hard to say what exactly is wrong with him. may have eaten too much or got cold and now has a respiratory infection.-Chuck>

Turtles Sick, Few Details, Some Photos  – 4/15/07
Dear Sir, I have 2 nice Red slider baby turtles , but since last few days I have suspected some sickness.
I am attaching the photos both the turtles.
Turtle 1:
Problem:  5 months old turtle , since few days I can see some white cotton skin removing from his body , not from the Shell only from the skin part, little weak and not eating properly, as I have seen some white spots on the shell and the back side.
History : Since beginning not eating proper Turtle stick food, only Tubifex blood worms only.
Turtle 2:
Problem :  2 months old turtle , since few days I can see some white cotton skin removing from his body , not from the Shell only from the skin part, little weak and not eating properly, as I have seen some white spots on the shell and the back side.
History: This turtle is eating Turtle stick and other food.
I request you to provide me the help and guidance to cure my turtles.
Thanks & Regards Sushil Paschal.
<Turtle 1 looks like it is overfed and in need of proper vitamins.  I would recommend ZooMed Aquatic Hatchling Tuttle Pellets. Feed three times a week and only when the turtle is hungry and actively seeking food. Check for proper lighting. Turtle #2 has trauma to the highest part of the shell. Looks like he may have tried to bury under a rock or something. Proper lighting and diet will keep the shell hard and healthy. If the areas are soft then it may be shell rot but it doesn't look like it from the pattern in the photos.-Chuck>

Turtle Getting Ready To Shed  – 4/15/07
I have a really important question, one of my red ear turtle has grayish looking stuff on its shell in the middle of the lines is it OK?
< If it is in an area where the scutes come together then your turtle may be getting ready to shed the scutes off its shell.-Chuck>

Turtle's Shell Is Bitten And Damaged – 4/13/07
Hi. I bought two red eared sliders about 2 years ago and for about the past 8 months I've had them in a pretty large tank with two fish that I got from my brother. The turtles and the fish get along fine and I've never had a problem with them so when I realized that my sister's baby turtles were not happy in their small place I volunteered to bring them to my tank for a while. Well, it was a big mistake. I left for work one day and when I returned both baby turtles had pieces of their shells bitten off. I separated them immediately, but I'm wondering what I should do to care for the turtles. I later found out that the area that was bitten off is called the bridge (between the carapace and the bottom portion of the shell). Does it hurt them? Or is it like nails, that cause no pain when they are cut off? Will it grow back? I will keep them separated from now on, but when they get bigger, can I  put them back in the tank with the other turtles?  Thank you very much for your time.
<The bigger turtles took the smaller turtles for pieces of food. Depending how deep the bites went there could be blood flow to the damaged areas. Keep the areas clean and watch for fungus. Keep the tank clean until they shed a couple of times and then the area should be healed over. It is best to keep one turtle per container. They don't get lonely and in fact view each other as competition. When the turtles get older and close to being the same size you can try to put them together but I think there will be problems.-Chuck.>

Second Hand Smoke With Turtles  4/10/07
Hey, Crew! I recently purchased two baby RES. I keep them in a tank in my room, with a sufficient environment. My only concern is that I smoke a pack a day, and smoke most of those cigarettes in my room. Will this give my precious RES any problems? Also, how long does it normally take for these turtles to grow?
Sincerely, Black Lungs in New Jersey.
< Second hand smoke is not great for any animal. Turtles are not real heavy breathers but they do live a long time. Over many years they may accumulate some of the toxins in the smoke, but I have not heard or seen of any studies that indicate the effects. The water in the tank would be a bigger problem. Water will pick up everything in the air so I would recommend regular water changes and a filter with carbon in it.-Chuck>

Turtle Ate Human hair  - 04/05/07
Hi there, I stumbled across your "FAQs about Turtle Behaviour" page, while searching for a solution to my problem. You see, yesterday, as I was cleaning my RES's tank, I must have shed a strand of hair into it, and that night, I noticed the strand (it's black) sticking out of his butt! Today, I noticed that the piece that was sticking out was shorter than the day before, so I'm not sure if the hair has broken off or if it's just receding back into his body. I'm extremely concerned about what to do with it because if I pull it out, I'm afraid that I'll hurt him, but if I don't, then I'm afraid that bacteria will grow on the hair and infect him. First of all, is this normal - I've never heard of this happening to anyone before, and quite frankly, I would think it was funny, but that's also because I never imagined it would happen to my turtle! Please help! Thanks, Jemima
< No big deal. Human hair is pretty much indigestible. Just give him some time and it will come out with no harm done.-Chuck>

Turtle With Respiratory Infection   3/31/07
I have two red ear sliders, I got them for Christmas a few month ago. Both of them are about the same size-5 to 6cm in shell length. One (a darker one) has always eaten a bit more than the other, but now the one that usually eats less has stopped eating entirely. I think it's a male.  I've checked on the internet for his conditions, the one that matches the most is respiratory infections. However, a lot of the information on the web disagree with each other. Some thinks that this could be solved just by raising the water temperature, while other say this is a life threatening illness and should be treated by the vet with shots. I'd like to know if this IS a respiratory infection:
-the turtle has stopped eating completely the day before yesterday (March 28th)
-he sneezed a few times when I was watching (I'm not sure if he sneezes constantly, but I saw him sneeze a few times already)
-he basks on the rock more often than usual
-he stretches out his hind legs out constantly (even when sleeping)
-he sometimes lays his head on a rock, kind of like what people do when they're tired
-he doesn't move a lot
-slow response
Thank you for your time, Leanne W.
<When humans get sick we get a fever. This raises our body temperature and helps fight infections. Check the temperature of the basking site with a thermometer. It should be at least 85 F and hopefully closer to 90 F. I think the water temp should be in the upper 60's to lower 70's F. While the turtle can handle the extreme temperature changes the parasites cannot. Antibiotics are usually needed to get a complete recovery. Untreated, fluid builds up in the lungs and the turtle is unable to breath or swim. For now check the temps while you search for a vet that can treat this infection. The sneezing is a sure sign of trouble. Go to Kingsnake.com and try to find a qualified vet in your area.-Chuck>

Older Turtle With Shell/Feeding Issues  3/30/07
Hello -I have a 9-year old red-eared slider that I've had since she was hatched.
She is constantly shedding her scutes and recently I've noticed small white spots on the top of her shell.  At first I would take her out and clean off her shell and use some shell-conditioner (moisturizer?).  But the spots keep coming back.  I can flick off these spots - there is a barely-noticeable dent left behind when I do so - and it doesn't seem to be soft.  The spots do not seem to return in the same place, rather another point on her shell.
She seems to be fine otherwise - she basks regularly and eats turtle pellets.  Her eyes are clear and don't seem to have any problems.  I have tried adding other items to her diet (mealy worms, crickets, veggies, etc.) but she doesn't seem interested.  She used to eat feeder fish regularly, but I haven't put any in the tank since she was moved into a 125 gallon tank.
There are currently 4 small fish in the tank with her - originally there were 6 fish but she only ate 2 over the course of about 2 years, so I haven't tried them again.  Previously when there were fish in her tank she would eat them almost immediately.  Should I try them again?
< No, not needed.>
She has two big rocks on which she can bask - both have lights over them.  I have the water temperature around 80 degrees.
<Too warm. Drop it down to the lower 70's to the upper 60's.>
I would take her to a vet but I'm having a hard time finding one in my area that deals regularly with turtles.
There seems to be a lot of algae that grows on the rocks - could this be an indication of a water issue?
< Water is high in nitrates.>
Can I put algaecide in the tank (I have some that I use for my fish tank)?
<Better to change more water and clean the filters more frequently.>
I have 2 filters for the tank - I know each brand of filter is different, but is there a general rule of thumb for how often the filters should be cleaned?
<I would get in the habit of clean each filter every two weeks. But don't change them both at the same time. Clean one on even weeks and then change the other one on odd weeks.>
Does she need vitamins?  If so, how do I get her to eat them?
< At this age your turtle should be eating more vegetable matter. Try not feeding your turtle for a week, then add some spinach and kale to the diet. The pellets should be for adult turtles and not for hatchlings.>
She's not handled very much and seems to be pretty shy when I get close to her/handle her, so hand-feeding is probably going to be an issue.  Thanks so much for your help!  Kasie
< If you have not done so in awhile, I would recommend that you change the light bulbs. Even though they are still lighting and heating the tank, the wavelengths get weak over a couple of years and need to be replaced to make sure that your turtle gets the proper lighting.-Chuck

Older Turtle Questions II  3/30/07
I wanted to mention that if it's a lighting issues, I live in the Northeast so taking the turtle outside right now isn't an option b/c it's too cold.
<Once again check the date on the lighting. new lighting may be needed.>
On that note, how warm should it be if I do want to take the turtle outside for some sunlight?  Also, I can send a picture of my turtle's shell if that would be helpful. Thanks again, Kasie
< The outside highs should be at least 65 F. Less than that and turtles usually just go dormant. Check on the items I have discussed and see if things get better.-Chuck>

Re: Slider Shell question part 2. Turtle Getting The Help It Needs - 04/04/2007
Thanks for your help.  I finally found a reputable vet in the area and he's treating her now.  The lighting is definitely something that could be contributing to her problem, and I have already made the appropriate changes.  Thank you so much! Kasie
< Glad to hear that you followed up and your turtle is getting the proper attention.-Chuck>

Worms In A Turtle Tank  3/30/07
We have 2 small sliders in a large tank. Just today have seen many tiny small 'worms' in the water. We have no local specialist shop or vet and will have to treat them ourselves, please have you any advice, we've had them for a year and wouldn't want to lose them, thank you.
<To accurately diagnose the problem you need to send a fecal sample to a qualified vet for analysis. The worms is the solution could be treated with Fluke-Tabs but his will not effect any intestinal worms. Keep the tank clean tank the basking spot at least 85 to 90 F. I don't think the worms you are see are parasitic to your turtles but I would still try to find a vet at Kingsnake.com that may be able to help you.-Chuck>

Turtles Not Acting Normal   3/18/07
I recently purchased two hatchling female RES.
<At a hatchling size they are really impossible to test.>
Both were quite active upon arrival, however, one seems to be more lethargic lately.  (It recently had problem with eating rocks, but I nipped that habit in the bud by removing all of the gravel from the tank.)  The turtle basks on the floating dock for very long periods of time with its eyes shut.  It eyes appear to be larger than normal, so I bought zoo med eye drops and applied two drops to each eye.  When I went back to check on the turtle, I put it in the water to see how it swam.  It swam normally but just slower.  Then it climbed back onto the dock and closed its eyes, and kept opening its mouth.  The water heater is set to 80 degrees and the water is very clean.  I feed it ReptoMin once daily.  It has a heat lamp, UVA/UVB lamp and filter and the water seems to be very clean.  I think that this "illness" may be due to its extended time in a small container filled with an inch of water that became cold in between water changes to the tank.
<You have few things that could be going on here. First check the temperature of the basking site. It should be 85 to 90 F. Second, puffy swollen eyes are caused by a vitamin A deficiency. ZooMed Eye Drops have vitamin A. Other brands of eye drops have antibiotics but no vitamin A. ZooMed Aquatic Turtle Hatchling Food is set up so these deficiencies don't happen. Hatchling turtles have different food requirements than adult turtles. I would lower the water temp to upper 60's to the lower 70's. This big different temperature gradient helps control parasites as the basking turtles dive into the colder water.-Chuck>

Re: Bigger Turtle Still Slow To Respond   3/21/07
Thank you for your quick response. The smaller turtle is doing very well. But the larger turtle is not eating and is not basking, he also has minimum activity. I have purchased a heater and the water temp is @ 74 degrees. I also have a good filter system. We have had the turtles for 3 days now and the tank is already mucky with an odor.
< Filter system isn't looking good now.>
I have added the water clarifier recommended when filling the tank. Is their anything else I can do for the larger turtle?
< The clarifier is a waste of money. Bacteria is feeding on uneaten food and turtle waste creating this ammonia smell. Change some of the smelly water with clean fresh water and clean the filter. The temperature of the basking site needs to be at least 85F. Check it with a thermometer.-Chuck.>

Turtle's Metabolism Is Very Slow   3/18/07
Hi, I own a small (almost quarter sized) red eared slider. I believe it was a hatchling when I bought it. I've been feeding it baby turtle food once a day, but it's been over two weeks and I have yet to see any feces anywhere. She eats, but she also seems very inactive the rest of the time. I wonder if it's constipation.
I owned a turtle before this one, and to remedy it's digestive problems I dabbed some sesame seed oil in it's food. I think this did something, because very soon after it went to the bathroom and went regularly afterwards.
Should I do this again, or is it not safe? If so, what should I do for my slider besides placing it in warm water to help it go? Is it even constipation? (she seems healthy otherwise, no sores or anything).
< Check the temperature of the basking site. It should be 85 to 90 F. Only feed you turtle a couple times a week when it is active and looking for food. Watch it each. At first it will have a big appetite and then slow down. As your turtle fills up it will slow down and should not be fed anymore. Never leave food in the tank. Always watch your turtle eat.-Chuck.

Jen, will you... Are there other practical Cheloniologists amongst us? – 03/17/07
I'm happy to answer the red-ear terrapin one. Used to keep these and others, know a little bit about reptiles. Given the terrapin in  question is
inactive when not feeding, one likely problem is too-low  a temperature. So we need to eliminate that problem before going  further. In a tank with a
proper filter, the faeces should get sucked  up pretty quickly, so they may be "out of sight", so to speak.
Cheers, Neale
<Ahh, good. Thank you. BobF>

Red eared slider constipated? – 03/17/07
Hi, I own a small (almost quarter sized) red eared slider. I believe it was a hatchling when I bought it. I've been feeding it baby turtle food once a day, but it's been over two weeks and I have yet to see any feces anywhere. She eats, but she also seems very inactive the rest of the time. I wonder if it's constipation.
<Greetings. Before going further with this, I must admit to being worried about its lack of activity. Reptile activity levels, both in terms of moving about and the processes inside the body, depend on warmth. Is your turtle being kept in a heated vivarium? What is the temperature? Red-ears do best around 24C(75F) to 30C(86F). Tanks kept at room temperature generally aren't acceptable.>
I owned a turtle before this one, and to remedy it's digestive problems I dabbed some sesame seed oil in it's food. I think this did something, because very soon after it went to the bathroom and went regularly afterwards.
<Oil will certainly speed up the flow of faeces through the gut. It is also important that red-ears have a balanced diet -- not just meat, but vegetables too. Dried food is nicely balanced but the lack of moisture and roughage may be causing problems. Check out the live food counter at your aquarium shop and picky up some bloodworms: small turtles like these. Surprisingly, plant matter is important, and this will provide plenty of moisture and roughage. Try greens, spinach, shredded carrot, squashed peas, etc. Peas are especially good for relieving constipation -- in humans, fish, and reptiles! Ideally, your turtle should be eating 50/50 animal and plant foods.>
Should I do this again, or is it not safe? If so, what should I do for my slider besides placing it in warm water to help it go? Is it even constipation? (she seems healthy otherwise, no sores or anything)
<First check the water/air temperature in the vivarium, then check your balance of meaty/green foods is right, and then worry about putting the turtle in a warm bath. (The water in the vivarium should be warm anyway.) Do also check that the cloaca (the "vent" where the faeces emerge) isn't blocked. Also, bear in mind a strong filter (you do have a filter, right?) will wash away the faeces if it working properly. You should be rinsing off the filter in a bucket of water taken from the tank at least once a week, and if it is full of icky, slimy stuff -- that's turtle poop! Cheers, Neale>

Turtle With Respiratory Infection  2/28/07
I need help ASAP.  I have a baby red eared slider who has not eaten in almost 2 weeks. The pet store told us it was not hot enough for him.  So we made the water in the 80's & got him a basking light.  He tried to eat today but something seems to be stuck in his throat.  He is mouth breathing.  Earlier in the week white stuff would come out of his mouth & he was also coughing.  What can we do?  Can we give him a little of our human antibiotics?  There was some kind of medicine at the pet store for sick turtles but I think you have to force feed them. He will not open his mouth on command.  We do not want to loose him.  Can you please get back to me ASAP? Thank you Elena
< His lungs are filled with fluid from a bacterial infection. Heat will help but at this late stage I would recommend a vet to inject antibiotics to save his life.-Chuck>

Female Turtle Biting Off Male Turtle's Nails  – 2/25/07
Hi! I have 2 RES who are 3.5 yrs old and have always lived together happily.  One is a male with .5 inch long nails and considerably smaller then the other one.  Recently I noticed that the little guys was missing a nail and his hand looked a little pink.  Tonight I noticed another missing from the other hand so I decided to take a good look at him.  During his mating dance the female took a snap at him and took off another nail!  My little guy doesn't seem to be in any pain and there is no blood etc.  My questions are:
1.  Is this normal?
2.  Is there anything I should be doing to treat the missing nail.
Your help is much appreciated!
< These are just a few of the problems people have when they keep more than one turtle together. The male wants to mate and his showing off to the female. In nature she would just swim away. Unfortunately in an enclosed space like an aquarium she has nowhere to go so she tries to discourage him by biting at him. The nails may grow back. Keep the water clean so they don't get infected. Add a Dr. Turtle Sulpha Block by ZooMed to inhibit any bacterial grow.-Chuck>

RES With Wound On Foot  – 2/26/07
Thank you so much Chuck.  Is there anything in particular I should do  with the wound on the foot of the male turtle?  Obviously , I  can't keep it dry...lol. Thanks-Trish
< Keep the water clean. Add a Dr. Turtle Block to the water and give him a Repti Turtle Sulpha Dip.-Chuck>

Sick Red Ear Slider. Turtle Having An Attack  2/18/07
I have a red ear slider that I bought about 10 days ago.  The folks that sold it to me don't have a clue.  Today the turtle is in it's enclosure and it is kicking it's legs frantically and opening and closing it's mouth a lot - not really gasping for air but making a popping sound with his mouth.  Now the turtle isn't moving one of it's front legs.  It still is kicking around like crazy - it won't be still at all.  I have had it in the light, in the water, out of the water - nothing seems to help.  Called the vet and we can't be seen until Monday.  Any advice you can give?  I've read everything on the site so I've increased the temp in the cage trying to give the turtle a "fever" but not sure what else to do at this point.
< Your turtle may have a respiratory infection and having trouble breathing or actually be choking on something. Pick him up and try to look down his throat with a flashlight to see if there is any obstruction.  Use tweezers to remove anything you may see. A respiratory infection will respond to antibiotics and heat. For future reference I would recommend that you only buy animals from knowledgeable dealers.-Chuck>

Sick Turtle With Shell Rot    2/16/07
I have had a RES for 13 years and I recently purchased a  new female that is about 4 years old, she is sick.  The place that I got her from obviously did not keep their tank clean and now she has shell rot ( I didn't realize this when I got her)  I took her to the vet and spent a total of $700.00 on medical bills and an entire new set up for her to be in alone.  She has been on antibiotics for 2 1/2 months and her eating habits have gotten better and she is more active. However, she never gets out to bask and I have read past articles on your site and tried to lower the water temp but still no basking.  He shell now has pink spots underneath almost like blood below her shell and I can't afford any more doctor bills, what do you think this could be and what can I do to help her? Please help me, thanks!  From-Kirsten
< First of all keep the tank water clean. Add a ZooMed Dr. Turtle Sulpha Block to the water. This will acidify the water and inhibit any bacteria growth. You may want to consider adding a ZooMed Repti Turtle Sulpha Dip too. This will  treat any current bacterial infections. As the turtle starts to eat it will need to come out and bask to increase its metabolism. Check the basking site with a thermometer to make sure it is at least 85 F.-Chuck>

Turtle  With Scale Missing    2/16/07
I've had my turtle (its a red-eared slider) for about 5 or 6 years and I just recently upgraded it to a 50 gal tank. One of his scales has fallen off and there's a brownish layer over it. I'm not sure what it is but I don't think its shell rot because it doesn't look white nor chalky. Also, he hasn't been eating much lately. Is this serious? I might take it to a vet but I thought you might help. -Wes
< As turtles get older their shell can change color from a bright green to a dull brown. It could just be genetics. Check the temp. of the basking spot, it should be at least 85 F. As the turtle warms up its metabolism will increase as well as its appetite.-Chuck>

Turtles With Shell Problems   2/12/07
Hi, I have 2 RES. One of them is 3 inches and the older one is about 5 inches. Their shell isn't growing at the pace it should be. I have all the proper items that they need but none of the foods I have a good amount of calcium. The smaller one is very energetic and always wants food but I only feed it three times a day. The older one I feed two times a day. I need help concerning their shell. Please help me.
< Older turtles need the vitamins and minerals found in green leafy vegetables like kale and spinach. Reduce the about of animal matter and increase the vegetable matter in their diet to get them back on track.-Chuck>

Turtles With Shell Problems    2/16/07
Ok thank you Chuck. I tried leafy greens all the time but they just smell it, taste it, and ignore the rest. The older one has ate a couple of plants but not any more, and I give them fruits like apples (sometimes) carrots (once in awhile) and various others, I went to your site a lot and I got a tremendous amount of info, and it was very helpful, but I think it has little detail on the turtles shell. Is there any other option if they don't eat leafy greens?
< Don't feed your turtle for a few days until they are good and hungry. Then add a piece of green vegetable. Pull it out after an hour. Offer it every day and when they get hungry enough they will eat it. Cuttlebone that is used in bird cages can also be tried. If is almost all calcium and it will wear their beak down too.-Chuck.>

Turtle Not Acting Normal - 02/11/2007
Hello all, I've been reading your site for a few hours now and I still can't find what I'm looking for.
< Thanks for trying.>
My Red Eared Slider, Manny, was 'rescued' from Chinatown, NY on Christmas about a month and a half ago.  Everything was going fine, he was eating well (not too much, a few pellets and some freeze dried shrimp once a day), and basking a good deal.  Things changed, however.  Manny stopped eating about a week ago.  He stopped basking about 4 days ago.  I have a 5 gallon tank for now (I plan to get another temporary 30 gallon tank when he grows a little more and becomes a stronger swimmer).  I keep his water at between 80 and 85 degrees and his basking site between 85 and 90 degrees.  I clean his tank once every 1 or two weeks.  I forced him to bask (placed him in a container with no water under the basking light) for a few hours yesterday.  Today I took him to the vet today and he gave him a shot of vitamins but he's still not eating or basking.  I read somewhere on your site when they are sick to turn the water temp down to 70, which I did, but now he's still staying in that 70 degree water and not coming out to bask and I feel bad chilling the poor guy.  I only noticed yesterday that he was breathing with his mouth opened when I went to feed him (I feed in a separate tank). He's mouth breathing today too.  There is no discharge or anything seeming wrong with his nose.  The vet said he looked healthy-a good color and there was no chipping cracking or peeling on his shell.  I was just wondering if there's anything you could add to clarify poor Manny's situation.  Thanks so much for your time and help, -Jill
<This is a difficult situation. None of the symptoms you have mentioned really stand out as anything in particular but lets cover the basics. The tank set up sounds good. I recommend that the tanks water temp always be set at 70 F. The temp change between the basking site and the cooler water make it difficult for pathogens to survive. The open mouth breathing could be a respiratory infection but that usually is seen with a nasal discharge and the turtle's inability to sink while swimming. Many times these rescue turtle are starved nearly to death. The rescuer tries to put weight back on the poor turtle and they get over fed. The food rots in their gut and the gas and bloat expand the digestive system and starts to displace the other vital organs like the lungs. Turtles are trapped in a shell and cannot expand their waistband when they eat too much. Turtles die from being overfed. I think you have done all you can for now. Keep the water clean and don't try to feed him again until he gets more active and acts like he is hungry.-Chuck>