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FAQs About Red Ear Slider (RES) Turtle Disease/Health 4 Related Articles:
Turtle eye
diseases; Recognising and treating eye diseases in pet turtles
by Neale Monks,
So your turtle
has the Flu? Recognising and treating respiratory infections in pet
turtles by Neale Monks,
The Care and Keeping of the
Red Eared Slider,
Trachemys scripta elegans by
Darrel Barton,
Red Ear
Sliders, Turtles, Amphibians, Red
Eared Slider Care, Shell Rot in
Turtles,
Related FAQs: RES
Disease/Health 1, RES
Disease/Health 2, RES Disease 3, &
Shell Rot,
Turtle
Disease 1, Turtle Disease 3, Shell Rot,
Turtle Respiratory Disease,
Turtle Eye Disease, &
Sliders 1,
Sliders 2,
Red Eared Slider Identification,
RES Behavior, RES
Compatibility, RES Selection,
RES Systems, RES
Feeding, RES Reproduction, Turtles in
General:
Turtles, Turtle Identification,
Turtle Behavior,
Turtle Compatibility,
Turtle Selection,
Turtle Systems,
Turtle Feeding,
Turtle Disease,
Turtle Disease 2,
Turtle Reproduction,
Amphibians, Other
Reptiles,
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My Red Eared Sliders!!!! Shell
concerns, nutrition 8/11/08
Hey!!
<HIYA!!!!!!!>
I'm Priscilla from NY and I have some concerns about my Red Eared
Sliders. I have 2 and they were bought at the same time. They were
pretty much the same size. However, after I started taking care of
them, I found out that one of my turtles, grew a LOT bigger in a
short period of time, while the other, grew slowly. I realize that
on the website, the bigger turtle may be a female, but I'm not sure
yet.
<Probably not that reason, Pricilla. Some people claim that females
grow a tiny bit faster than males while juveniles, females mainly
get bigger because they keep growing. It's too early to tell their
sexes.>
One of the concerns is that I think my turtles are fighting to get
food, and usually, the bigger one gets all the food.
<that's more likely. In any group, even a group of only two, there
is some competition for food and other resources and one animal will
become more successful. Even in situations where there is plenty of
basking areas, food and other resources, the dominant animal will
simply thrive better than the other, if only by a little bit.
Slightly brighter, slightly bigger ... just .... better.>
<Sometimes it's tricky to solve the feeding problem. If you simply
add so much food that the big one gets full and swims off, there's
usually so much food that the water fouls. After you start feeding
and the big one is eating, use a net handle or a pencil and nudge
the little guy over to a different corner where you have just
dropped a few pellets of food. Sometimes I've even removed a smaller
animal to a shallow bowl of water for a private feeding once every
week or so. If you see that he gets a really good meal every once in
a while he's usually equipped to compete well enough on his own the
rest of the time.>
The bigger turtle has a more vibrant-colored shell than the smaller
turtle. It has a dull shell. My biggest concern is that I find that
my turtles' shells look like they're shedding, but they're not
they're basically bits of the shell that look clearish-whitish. It
doesn't smell any way it shouldn't smell. I understand that the
bigger turtle's shell looks like that because its growing, and
shedding a lot of skin, so it's only natural. But the little
turtle... I don't understand. Is it shell rot?
<From here it looks like normal shedding. The SKIN comes off as very
small gray bits and usually the pieces are too small to notice. When
shreds of skin are visibly hanging off of a turtle it's usually a
sign of water quality and fungal problems. The shell scutes
(pronounced skoots) come off as thin, transparent to translucent
chips -- sometimes the full size of each scute and sometimes
smaller. This is normal growth. Just before the scute comes off, it
turns dull and starts to wrinkle, which is exactly what your picture
shows.>
Or is it not getting enough food? Does it need vitamins?
<If they're getting good basking temperatures (about 90f+),
unfiltered UV A & B lighting, clean water and high quality Koi
Pellets or Repto-Min food sticks then no, you don't need to
supplement their diet. As far as getting enough food, with just a
little extra effort on your part you can see to it that the little
guy is doing well enough to hold his own. I'll toss in a link below>
Thank you so much!!!
<You are so welcome>
Priscilla
<Darrel>
< http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm >
<******************************************************************>
<************** SOAP BOX ALERT **********************************>
<**** This is America where everyone is entitled to my opinion!!!
************>
<I get asked my opinion on food supplements all the time and my
answer is always NO!. And then yes. Let me explain.>
<When a diet is deficient in vitamins the first thought and often
the choice -- is to supplement with vitamins. The problem with that
is ... that the diet is STILL deficient in vitamins! If the animal
is not getting enough natural sunlight or concentrated enough UVA &
UVB to synthesize Vitamin D, you can certainly give the D ... but
after giving all the D in the world ... the environment is STILL
DEFICIENT in UVA and UVB. You end up compensating for a problem
instead of CORRECTING the problem. So what's the difference you ask?
Easy to answer: If your diet is deficient in vitamins or nutrients
then I guarantee you that it's too high in fat (or too low in fat)
or too high in protein or too low in whatever else ... to be good
for them in the first place. PLUS ... you're spending money on a
diet that's improper and then spending MORE on supplements. >
<On the other hand ... when you solve the problems .. when you're
giving a balanced diet in an environment with high water quality of
the correct parameters, light & temperatures of the right types,
degrees and variances .... then the supplements are no longer
necessary!!!!>
<But then .. every once in a while, I add a few drops of supplements
anyway> <<Extremely valuable input/reminders for humans and
their own nutrition as well. RMF>> |
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Red Ear Slider, defecation
7/29/08
I have a red eared slider turtle at my house I had just feed him/her when I
noticed that a black sack cam out of his bottom Im not sure what that is
<Likely just faeces. Aquatic reptiles produce very loose faeces compared with
the sticky, uric acid-laden faeces you may be familiar with if you've kept
terrestrial reptiles such as tortoises. Cheers, Neale>
Re: Red Ear Slider; health
– 7/30/08
thank u for your response but I have a few more questions
<You are welcome. But the way to be nice to us is follow our rules for
proper English: capital letters where they are normally put, "you" instead
of "u", "I" instead of "I", and so on. We ask this from everyone, so others
can read the site easily. It isn't because we're trying to be awkward.>
1.about the black sack I was talking about in came out of his/or her bottom
and went back in I don't think it's feces.
<Indeed. Well, it could be a prolapse if something is hanging out for long
periods. This would be extremely serious and will require immediate
veterinarian attention. Sometimes male turtles will expose and retract their
penis for no obvious reason. Males can be sexed by looking at their claws
(which are very long) and the underside of the tail (the cloaca (or opening)
on the male is closer to the tip of the tail than the base of the tail).
Obviously if your turtle is a female, then this isn't a possibility.>
2. what are the signs of your turtle having eggs?
<How big is this animal? Females need to be fairly large before they start
laying eggs. Moreover, you should see the female attempting to find a site
on land to lay her eggs. She will need a bed of sand into which eggs can be
placed. Egg binding in females is a not-uncommon problem. Untreated, it will
lead to an agonising death. Please see here:
http://www.redearslider.com/reproduction.html
Cheers, Neale.>
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Res Shell – 07/16/08
hi can u please check the picture and tell me what is the
problem with my res? thanks
<Looks normal enough to me. Do bear in mind that old scutes (the
"scales" that make up the shell) flake off as the animal grows. The
shell also turns from bright green/yellow to more olive/brown. Shell
problems come down to three things, so check you have them all
fixed: First, the water needs to be clean. Dirty water promotes
Shell Rot. Secondly, you need to provide a source of ultraviolet
light (specifically UV-B). A standard "reptile basking lamp" will
take care of this. Finally, you need to give your pet enough calcium
in its diet. Dried turtle food on its own is NOT sufficient; you
need to provide green foods (e.g., Elodea) plus calcium-rich
unshelled invertebrates such as krill.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/turtshellrot.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/RESCareBarton.htm
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/resfdgfaqs.htm
If you're doing all these things, then your turtle will continue to
remain in good health. If you're not... well, fix it!
Cheers, Neale.>
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