What kind of Cichlid is this? – 10/02/08 Cichlid ID Greetings (pass my hello on to Neale if he's around) I was wondering what kind of cichlid I have. Attached is a photo. If this picture is not good enough, I will try to take another. Thank you! Skye < The cichlid in the photo you provided is definitely from Lake Malawi. It is called an Mbuna by the locals for all rock dwelling cichlids from that lake. It looks like it could be in the genus Pseudotropheus/Metriaclima. But looking at the large mouth makes me think it could be Petrotilapia. The later gets pretty big and gets very aggressive. With a better picture I might be able to further define the species.-Chuck>

Re: What kind of Cichlid is this? 10/2/08 Cichlid ID II, With Much Better Picture Thanks. Attached is another picture of him (I'm assuming it's a him - I have no idea how to tell gender on this type of fish yet). He is about 5" long and around two years old. I rescued him from a friends tank, as a more dominant fish was picking on this beautiful one. His color has become more vibrant in the two weeks I've had him. Not much else is know about him. My friend thinks this fish is a "mutt/Heinz 57" variety. Your thoughts with this new picture? < The new picture is much better. You have what is commonly called a Cobalt Blue, Metraclima callainos. Probably the original founder stock came from Nkhata Bay.-Chuck>

Hello, I was wondering if you could identify this fish... This fish was sold to me at PetSmart as a "yellow lab". – 7/30/08 <It isn't.> When these fish were small, I thought I was getting two female yellow Labidochromis caeruleus, but the two have spawned. <Oh dear.> I thought yellow labs only came with black stripes on the top fin, and this fish appears to be yellow-orange. I have not seen these fish on any other website, so I was wondering if you could help me identify it. <These are some sort of Maylandia, perhaps Maylandia estherae or an orange form of Maylandia zebra... or for that matter some sort of hybrid. One should never, ever by Mbuna that aren't clearly identified.> Thank you so much for your help. They also have produced a few offspring with black stripes along the top fin. <Mbuna hybridise very readily unless you take care to keep species that won't hybridise (e.g., by choosing species from different genera, i.e., one species of Labidochromis, one species of Iodotropheus, and so on). Please please please do not give away or sell fry you suspect may be hybrids -- this is a blight on the hobby and one of the most irresponsible things any aquarist can do. The problem is hybrid fish are by their nature unpredictable in terms of behaviour, size and colouration, making it impossible to create a tank with sensible, carefully considered choices of species. If you have excess fish, please destroy them painlessly (see the Euthanasia FAQ here at WWM for tips). Cheers, Neale.>

Hello, I was wondering if you could identify this fish... 7/30/08 Cichlid ID This fish was sold to me at PetSmart as a "yellow lab". When these fish were small, I thought I was getting two female yellow Labidochromis caeruleus, but the two have spawned. I thought yellow labs only came with black stripes on the top fin, and this fish appears to be yellow-orange. I have not seen these fish on any other website, so I was wondering if you could help me identify it. Thank you so much for your help. They also have produced a few offspring with black stripes along the top fin. <The is a Pseudotropheus species of some sort. It could be a cross between a couple different species. Because of the color I believe it is some sort of cross developed in Asia and is not a true species found in the wild. These cichlids are capable of crossing with almost any other mbuna type from Lake Malawi. This makes them excellent candidates for making "designer cichlids".-Chuck> About that Maylandia...I do believe Neale is correct!   8/1/08 Hello there! I just thought I would add this little note. <Hello again Nicole!> I was up reading the FAQs early this morn after having missed a few days, and I saw Neale's answer to the query about the fish that was sold to someone, mistakenly, as a yellow lab. <Yep, I think we're agreed on this!> I found this article: http://www.gcca.net/fom/Maylandia_estherae.htm And do believe that the picture on it shows a fish that looks spot on like the picture provided. <Certainly my gut feeling. But the problem is that there are so many hybrids that unless you buy from a reputable retailer, you don't always know what you're getting.> I just thought I would add that I have a brood of African cichlids that crossed (a yellow Labidochromis caeruleus and a blue Pseudotropheus socolofi) and, except for the deep orange, this fish looks very similar to mine. <Not encountered this hybrid. Thanks for the heads-up.> So it could possibly be a mix of a yellow lab and a blue Pseudotropheus, but the Maylandia seems much more likely. <I would tend to agree.> I had never heard of this fish before...thanks for introducing this species to me, Neale! <It's a nice fish.> Rest assured my fish are never being given away or traded in, I am embarrassed enough that I allowed this to happen when I was less experienced. <We all make mistakes like this. The problem is that so many people don't care anymore, and the market is flooded with hybrids. That's undermined the Malawi cichlid hobby. When you think about Malawi cichlids, they include some of the most amazing fish with the brightest colours -- even compared with marine fish! That's why I get sad when I see hybrids -- I know that lots of aquarists are going to end up with muddy-coloured, unpredictable fish and wonder why people like me enthuse about Mbuna.> Take care, and have a lovely weekend. Nicole <Likewise Nicole and thanks for writing. Cheers, Neale.>

Red Zebra and a Kenyi I think... Af. cichlid ID... 5/17/08
Hello all at WWM... I hope all is well for you today...
<Thank you>
I once wrote in about Jewel cichlids and for a quick update on them, all is well... I have a bunch of babies swimming around eating flake food and seeming happy and the momma just laid a bunch of eggs again. I don't guess I lowered the water temp. enough :) but oh well I will take care of it lol...
Since I spoke to u last, I had 2 unknown cichlids die in my 55 gallon tank. I set up my little 10 gallon tank for a hospital tank and tried to survive the 2 with no luck... I suspected aggression since the other fish seemed fine. That left my 55 almost empty, it had and still has a large Electric Yellow, and a Nimbochromis ( the giraffe looking one) I don't think the 2 are really supposed to be good tank mates, but all seem well with them right now. Here's the problem... I purchased 2 new "African Cichlids" at Wal-Mart, well that's all that they list them as here and I get to play detective to see what I have when I get them home... I think I have correctly identified the first as a Red Zebra and the other as the Kenyi.
<Or, too likely, crosses...>
The Kenyi is really pretty golden yellow with a hint of pinkish purple on its back area with its black stripes. I love this fish and he's extremely active...The Red Zebra fish is fairly active but I since I got him I have noticed him beginning to bounce off the
tank decor. Water chemistry is set up as hard/alkaline water and the nitrates, nitrite and ammonia are all good... 10, 0,and 0 ... I may have that backwards since I am not looking at my cards... The Zebra is also showing signs of red gills... I moved him to hospital tank and gave him a parasite treatment. Gills still red. He eats well and seems active still but he kinda swims a bit funny at times, kinda like he's gonna turn and go back the other way and then whips back around and stays on same path he was traveling... Don't know much about this...any advice? Fish has no spots or visual anything to help with diagnosis, but I definitely don't think all is well with him for some reason.
Also when I purchase new fish (if I ever do again, since I have so many Jewel babies) how long do u suggest that I keep new fish from old fish before risking infecting my whole tank.
<Posted... a good two-three weeks is about right>
And if you recommend I treat this Red Zebra again should I go ahead and treat the whole 55 gallon tank even though they seem fine at this point? Any thing u can tell me is greatly appreciated about this and any pointers on the Kenyi will also be welcomed!
<Read on WWM... African Cichlids, Disease...>
OH and one last question, how long until my Jewel babies begin to get any color?
<A few weeks to a couple of months>
Just curious about that, not drastically important. I would really like to know what color they are gonna be, so I can pick which ones will become feeder fish... I know sounds terrible but I am over flowing in babies and running outta homes for them...Have a great day and many thanks for such a great site!
~ JerrieSue ~
<Keep reading JS... you'll do fine. Bob Fenner>

Cichlid ID  01/14/2008 Hi Crew, I have a person selling some Cichlids and does not know what type they are and me either. Can you help me please? He needs to get rid of all 9 fish ASAP and will give them all up for US$24, what do you think about the price? I want to also add around 10-20 small (around 1 inch) Pseudotropheus saulosi in a few weeks when I get my shipment, do you think its safe to add them after these other unidentified cichlids are added first? My tank is 200 Gallons. Thanks in advance Ghulam <Hello Ghulam. The fish with the orange/brown patches and yellow spots on the anal fin is some sort of Pseudotropheus, likely Pseudotropheus zebra. But do bear in mind standard stock is often hopeless messed up in terms of genetics, and this fish may well be a hybrid. So fine as a pet, but unless you can 100% guarantee it is one particular species, not recommended for a breeding project, and DEFINITELY do not pass on any fry produced by this fish to other hobbyists. There's too many hybrid Pseudotropheus in the hobby already. The big orange fish with the huge mouth is some sort of "Tilapia", possibly Oreochromis mossambicus but equally likely one of the hybrids such as "Golden Tilapia" widely used in the aquaculture business. A nice enough fish, but big, messy, and fairly aggressive. Also potentially huge (20-30 cm) and very, very messy. No-one in their right mind PAYS for a tilapia for a fish tank -- that's a fish you take off someone's hands as a favour! As for your other question: NO, you NEVER, EVER mix two different Pseudotropheus species. Only a lunatic would do that. The problem is you'll end up with masses of hybrid fry that SHOULD NOT be passed on into the hobby. Furthermore, the levels of aggression in the genus are high but variable, and punchy species like Pseudotropheus zebra will often kill males from less aggressive species. When stocking Pseudotropheus, you choose a SINGLE species appropriate for your community, and then choose species from other genera that it WILL NOT hybridise with, such as Labidochromis, Labeotropheus, Cyrtocara, etc. Obviously do not mix Pseudotropheus with fish from closely related (possibly identical) genera such as Maylandia or Metriaclima; taxonomists may argue about the differences here, but Pseudotropheus, Maylandia, and Metriaclima all think they're the same thing and will freely fight/breed with one another. Cheers, Neale.>

Distinguishing between blue-colored Mbunas  9/20/07
Hi Crew,
I have been doing research on the internet regarding keeping Malawi cichlids, especially their temperament & compatibility. I purchased several Labidochromis caeruleus & peacocks, a couple of unknown blue hap-type fish and a single Placidochromis Milomo. Non-cichlids include 3 Synodontis, 1 common Pleco & an Asian climbing perch. They are doing well together & aggression is kept at a minimum. Now I am looking for some blue-colored Mbuna cichlids to add more color to the aquarium.
The problem is that I can't distinguish between the various blue-colored cichlids available. I thought that the Metriaclima callainos would be ideal as it isn't too aggressive. However, the problem is that I don't know how to distinguish it from the Metriaclima estherae, which is said to be extremely aggressive. On the other hand, another candidate I was considering was the Metriaclima saulosi, which is also said to be not too aggressive, but looks very similar to the much more aggressive Metriaclima lombardoi.
The problem is compounded by the fact that the LFS near my house usually sell mixed African cichlids in the same tank instead of single species, so I would really have a hard distinguishing which is which. Any recommendations on less-aggressive blue-colored Mbunas or other cichlids that are easy to identify?
If I were to end up buying aggressive cichlids by mistake, would they end up either tearing up the other fishes to shreds or stressing them to death?
Regards,
Visoth
<Greetings. In all honesty, the prevalence of hybrid Pseudotropheus-type cichlids in the hobby is so widespread that you cannot guarantee getting a "true" species from any store that doesn't specialise in African cichlids. The only safe approaches are to either find a store with a good reputation for African cichlids or else contact your local cichlid club and get in touch with breeders through them. Wild-caught stock are usually the best fish in terms of purity, because even within a species there are lots of regional types and these often get mixed after a few generations in captivity. I'd also mention that mixing Pseudotropheus-type cichlids with, say, Labidochromis or Aulonocara isn't a brilliant idea because of differences in aggression levels. Pseudotropheus-type things are better with Labeotropheus, Cynotilapia and so on. With Labidochromis and Aulonocara, you want the more placid Mbuna, like Iodotropheus and of course the beautifully blue Cyrtocara. Mixing Mbuna of the wrong aggression level can indeed result in death! So take great care when selecting species. Cheers, Neale>

Less-aggressive blue-colored haps, sel.   7/21/07
Hi crew,
Thanks for the earlier reply on blue-colored Mbunas. Both the recommended species are hard to find in the LFS around my area.
Are there any less-aggressive blue-colored haps to recommend for a tank that currently houses electric yellow labs and peacocks? From my knowledge, the electric blue ahli isn't too aggressive, but is there any way to distinguish it from blue species of peacocks? I find that the color and body shape quite similar, although the peacocks have greater likelihood of coming in more than 1 color. Is it possible or common for electric blue ahlis to come in more than one color, or for peacocks to be pure blue?
Thank you.
<Greetings. I find it hard to imagine you *can't* find Cyrtocara moori -- it is known as the Malawi Blue Dolphin and among the most widely traded Malawian Haplochromines in the trade. If all else fails, ask your retailer to get some in for you. Although big (around 20 cm) it is a gentle giant, provided you only have a single male specimen. The problem for you is that Aulonocara and Labidochromis are both at the low end of Malawian cichlid aggression. If you add significantly more aggressive species to the tank, they stand a very good chance of being killed. It's as simple as that. Pseudotropheus zebra for example will usually dominate any Labidochromis caeruleus in the tank. Pseudotropheus demasoni is *sometimes* kept in communities with more placid cichlids because, while highly aggressive, it is [a] small (~8 cm) and [b] tends to be only aggressive towards fish that are blue. Pseudotropheus demasoni is light blue with dark blue vertical bands, so very pretty. So that's one species you might want to take a gamble with, assuming your tank was sufficiently large (not less than 150 litres). Sciaenochromis ahli is another fish that *tends* to be violent towards other blue fish while largely ignoring other types of fish, but again, this depends on the aquarium. Given the large adult size of this species (~20 cm) and its piscivorous habits, it isn't a fish for every tank. Allow at least 200 litres for this species. Both Sciaenochromis ahli and Aulonocara spp. do have a somewhat similar shape and both come in a wide variety of colours. But as a rule Aulonocara have a smaller, more dainty mouth reflecting their niche as micropredators, whereas Sciaenochromis have much bigger mouths better suited to their niche as piscivores. But any halfway decent aquarium store will keep them apart and properly identified anyway, so this shouldn't really be an issue. Hope this helps, Neale>

African Cichlid Questions... ID, gen. care   7/13/07
Hey, I love your site; it has gotten me through many rough spots. I have three African Cichlids (at least that is what Wal-Mart said) in a 10 gallon tank. I have had them between 5 and 8 months (depending on the fish). While I was at school they were with other cichlids in a 20 gallon tank, but with the summer I bought them a tank of my own. They are three different species of fish, but I don't know what they are (remember Wal-mart fish). I promise I will not send any future babies to a pet store because of cross-breeding, but I have a few questions.
1) What kind of cichlids are they?
< The usual African cichlids sold at Wal-Mart are usually cichlids from Lake Malawi in Africa. They are usually the rock dwelling cichlids called Mbuna..
> Where are they from?
< Initially from Lake Malawi but they are very easy to breed and currently are probably from a fish farm in Florida.>
How large will they get?
< Usually around 4 inches depending on the species.>
One is a bright yellow, about 2 1/2 inches at the moment, with a stripe on its dorsal fin that was black when I got him but is grey right now. He is the smallest of the fish, but I think he is the oldest.
< Probably a Labidochromis caeruleus or "yellow lab" from Lion's Cove.>
The second is light blue and about three inches long. She or he can get as light as almost white with a very light blue color to a darker sky blue color and for spots on the anal fin. This fish likes to dig tunnels in the rocks under the hiding spot.
< Probably a Ps. zebra or "cobalt blue".>
The third is the largest at 4 inches the last time I measured him, maybe a month ago. When I bought him he was a yellow gold with large black spots. Sometimes his spots are so large and dark that you almost can't see that they have any color around them. Right now the spots are so faded that he looks gold. The spots are almost not visible. I will try to attach pictures, but I don't know if it will work.
< Sounds like a Nimbochromis venustus. A large predatory cichlid.>
2) Is my tank large enough or do I need to invest in a larger one?
<A ten gallon tank is too small for this group of fish. The yellow lab with get a little over four inches. The cobalt blue will get up to 4 to 5 inches. The venustus will be the biggest one at about eight inches but could get up to a foot if it is a male. Think about a 40 to 55 gallon if you intend to grow these fish to adult size.>
I went for ten gallon because of finances and space in a dorm room. I do have space for a larger one if I need it.
3) Moving back and forth from college frequently is difficult. What is the best way to transport my fish?
Thanks a ton! Melissa
< Get large plastic bags from the fish store for each of the fish. Don't feed the fish at least a day before the move. Place just enough water in the bag to make up about 1/3 of the bag. Leave the rest for air. Place one fish in each bag. Twist the end of the bag and secure with a rubber band. Place the second bag over the first bag in the opposite direction to pinch off the corners of the bag. Rubber band the second bag. Place the bags in an insolated ice chest. Should be good for 24 hours. If the move is going to be longer then you need to use oxygen from a fish store. Then the bags will be good for up to 48-72 hours or longer.-Chuck>

African Cichlid  6/6/07
Maybe you can help me.
<Greetings.>
I have a female African Cichlid, not sure of her species, but just released about 30 fry 5 days ago (she was in a separate tank).
<Very good. One thing though. Please, try and ensure any fry you produce are a single species. The African Cichlid side of the hobby is plagued with hybrids, and these have little to no real value, being unpredictable in behaviour and indifferent in colouration. Many of the Pseudotropheus-type fishes (of which the African Zebra, Pseudotropheus zebra, is the best known) are notorious for hybridising. The reason I mention this is that a lot of the African cichlids people buy but cannot identify by looking in books are these hybrids. You can't name the species because they *aren't* a species!>
She has been doing great, a little thin but last night when we came in she was swimming erratically up and down the tank.
<They do lose weight after mouthbrooding. A month on her own to "fatten up" will do her plenty of good. Don't forget to give her greens as well as meaty foods, because the essential vitamins she needs will be in algae-based foods.>
Now she fights to swim to the top but her tail sinks her to the bottom of the tank. She isn't bloated, no skin irritations, nothing too strange.
<Very odd. Usually, when cichlids suddenly lose poise or swimming ability the problem is a sudden change in conditions. Adding, for example, too-cold water to a cichlid tank will send them into apparent convulsions. They recover as they warm up. Cichlids are among the most highly strung fishes, so anything like changes in temperature, pH, hardness, and salinity have to be observed carefully.>
She seems as if she's gasping for air so we put her into a tank by herself and added salt to see if that would help. Do you have any clue what her problem might be?
<Tonic salt (NaCl) won't help. Quite the reverse. There's fairly solid agreement among aquarists and vets that salt is one factor that leads to Malawi Bloat, a situation a bit like dropsy caused by organ failure. So without exception, salt should never be added to a tank with Malawi or Tanganyikan cichlids. (By contrast, Central American and Asian cichlids often have phenomenally high salt tolerance, to the point where some species will breed in seawater!) So, remove the salt by performing water changes through the week. Check the pH and hardness are appropriate. For Rift Valley cichlids something around 20 degrees GH ("hard" to "very hard" on your test kit) and a pH between 7.5 and 8.0 will do nicely. Ensure the water quality os optimal, of course. Tanganyikan cichlids are especially intolerant of nitrites and ammonia, but given yours is a mouthbrooder it is probably a Malawi cichlid of some type.>
Thank you,
Allison
<Hope this helps. Neale>

Re: African Cichlid – 06/07/07
Thank you, our cichlid is orange and I can identify her and the others in the tank from a book but I can never remember the technical name. I believe she bred with an electric blue cichlid that has an orange stripe on its fin.
<Ah, that's the problem. Almost certainly at least a cross-breeding between varieties of one species or else a hybrid between species. Please, unless you are sure the species has blue males and orange females, and so the breeding was between a single variety and a single species, destroy the fry at once using a humane method. Passing on hybrid cichlids to retailers and other hobbyists is one of the least ethical things any hobbyist can do. Besides ruining the hobby by dumping no-name hybrids on the market, it also causes conservation issues. Many of the African cichlids are under intense pressure from collectors in the wild. In some cases, they are commercially extinct, i.e., so rare, collectors can't find them any more. I learned about this a few days ago speaking with a fish scientist out in Tanganyika. By dumping tank-bred hybrids on the market, serious aquarists are forced to buy wild-caught fish if they want quality stock. It is this demand that causes the pressure on wild populations. So please, if you are not 100% sure the fry are a true species and a single variety, destroy them.>
It's odd to hear problems with salt. We treated our tank in the past for disease by way of salt and all our fish were cured and still well.
<It isn't a 1:1 thing, i.e., every time you use salt, the fish get Malawi Bloat. But when Malawi Bloat does occur, one of the factors common to many cases is the use of tonic salt. Conversely, salt doesn't deliver any tangible benefits that cannot be acquired using safer methods.>
Thank you,
Allison
<Cheers, Neale>
 

Quick IDs, Af. cichlids   3/18/07 Hi,     Do you mind ID-ing a cichlid for me? I sort of  inherited it (it's a long story) and want to be sure I am caring for it properly  and I wanted to see about breeding it (why I want to know what it is) Here is  the 1st one: (javascript:void(0);) Sorry that it is blurry- new camera phone :D <Looks like a female Melanochromis auratus to me: http://fishbase.sinica.edu.tw/Summary/speciesSummary.php?ID=2343&genusname=Melanochromis&speciesname=auratus> And the other one that I inherited, which is isolated by itself by egg  crate: <Maybe a Maylandia zebra male... http://fishbase.sinica.edu.tw/Summary/speciesSummary.php?ID=8345&genusname=Maylandia&speciesname=zebra> Thanks, I appreciate your help! Anthony P. S. I wouldn't have this awesome discus if it weren't for your excellent advice! She lives with another female discus of the same size in a 125 gallon tank, and I wish to add 2-3 more in a few months and get them breeding  again! (I had a major die out- from 8 discus to 2)   <A very nice specimen. Bob Fenner>

Cichlid ID  3/6/07
Just out of curiosity, if any of you have the April TFH magazine on hand, what is the general and scientific name of the fish (I believe it is a cichlid) to the left of the guppies in the right hand corner of the advertisement for Southland Aquatics Inc. on page 99. Any info would be nice too. Thanks again!
< This is an aquarium strain of peacock cichlid. They are not found in the wild. They have various trade names like German Red Peacock or Ruben Red Peacock. They can be kept like any other Lake Malawi cichlid , but they tend to less aggressive and get bullied by the other cichlids.-Chuck>