120 Gallon Tank Leveling and Floor Construction 5/26/2009 Hello, <Hi John> Thank you for hosting such an informative website! I've ended up on your site quite a few times during my many Google searches. <Thank you, We're glad that you found it helpful.> Last year I moved into a townhouse, and was planning to combine my smaller tanks into a 6 foot 125 gallon tank. After being test filled with water, the tank rocked very easily when touching the top. It was pretty scary. <Yikes!> This particular townhouse happened to have water damage directly underneath where the washing machine hookup is located. I had no choice but to return that particular size tank. Everything was so chaotic during the move, and the big tank was supposed to simplify things. I needed another tank with more depth for stability, and decided on 120 gallons (24" x 24" x 48"). I moved it to the left of the floor damage, but it still wasn't perfect. For that, and many other reasons, I moved to another townhouse community a year later, which happens to have almost identical design, and 1978 construction. <Ok> I can't tell from the garage, because of the drywall in the ceiling, but if the HVAC/water heater room behind the garage is any indication, the floor support consists of 1 1/2" x 7" beams, topped in plywood. The tank is centered between 2 large perpendicular metal beams that are in the garage. It's 34 1/2" to the left and right, and 7" from the wall itself. If the 1 1/2" beams run the length of the house, 2 of these beams run underneath the middle of the tank, and they're closer to the front. The floor is more stable than the previous address, but I can see the water ripple when I walk by. I can only assume that the plywood between the beams causes this. <Yes,> There's nothing I can do. It's just strange that I've kept a 75 gallon tank in 4 different homes since the early '90s, and never had a single issue with leveling or what seems to be cheap construction. <Not so much cheap construction as I don't think they considered large aquariums back in 1978. Back then, 55 gallons was a big tank.> After I set the tank up without shims, remnants of water in the bottom of the tank settled in the back left corner. According to brand new 24" and 48" levels, the tank especially needed to be shimmed on the left side. I read some good things about plastic shims, and also like the fact that they're uniform, and stuck together in 12" wide sheets for more surface area that the stand can rest on. The base of the stand is 26", and I put down 2 of them on the left side. The tank is almost perfectly level measured in the front and back, using the 48" level, but the left and right side measurements show that it's slightly tipped toward the back, and a bit more on the left. The bubbles are still within the inner lines, though. I attached multiple labeled pictures. Would you mind taking a look at them? <Certainly I have the exact same stand in the 150 gallon. Do yourself a favor before you fill the tank and add a thin foam strip (thin weather-stripping works well) where the tank contacts the stand. This will help level out the irregularities in the stand itself.> Is this level enough? <For all intents and purposes, yes.> In order to make the left and right bubbles perfectly centered, I'd have to overlap some of the shims in the back left corner. Would you do this, or leave things as is? Your help and advice is really appreciated! <One thing I did notice is that you have the aquarium on carpet, which will not add stability and contribute to leveling problems. You may find it easier if you place the stand on a large piece of plywood rather than on the carpet. Also, it you put a piece of molding around the lip facing up, you can seal the seam and it will catch any drips or spills before it soaks into your carpet.> Thank you, <My pleasure> John <MikeV>

Re: 120 Gallon Tank Leveling and Floor Construction 5/27/2009 Hi Mike, <Hi John> Thank you for such a quick response! <No problem> You say "For all intents and purposes" the tank is level enough, but aside from your other suggestions, does this mean I should leave well enough alone, and not shim anymore? <Yes, the bubble is between the inner lines on your level, so that should be fine.> I do remember that PetSmart had your 150 gallon on sale a year ago for about half of what I ended up spending on the 120 gallon. They're Perfecto tanks, but they sell them as Top Fin. It was tempting, but would've been dangerous to have such a tall tank, and working on it would be difficult for anyone under 7 feet tall. It's a nice tank, though. Are you that tall, or do you hire little people to dive in? <Heheh. No, I'm 6' tall. I have a small step stool I use when I need to get to the bottom of the tank. In a pinch, my son is 6' 4" and I send him in after things. Aqua-Tongs are good things as well.> The tank and stand have been used for about a year, and before doing the shimming and leveling, I filled the tank with water to compress the carpeting. I guess it's tough to tell in the picture, but the tank is currently filled with water. <Ahh, yes, I thought it was empty.> You mentioned adding weather-stripping before I fill the tank, which is something I read about on your website, and I wish I read about this before moving the tank! <Hehehe> My friends are really sick of me burdening them with my constant moving, despite being paid in beer and pizza. Adding weather-stripping would be difficult for one person. Since you have the same stand, you know the lip makes it impossible to slide the tank, and I never lift the tank from the top. I'd have to crawl inside the stand, push the glass up, then quickly slip the weather-stripping in between. I'm wondering if this is worth the chiropractic adjustment costs, considering that the pine has probably been compressed by the weight over time? <If you are already filled, I would leave it at this point.> When I read previous comments about putting plywood underneath stands, I assumed this was for those with metal stands. Forgive my ignorance, but doesn't this stand have pretty thick pine around the perimeter, with a thin piece of plywood attached to the bottom? <Yes it does. Plywood works really well for metal stands, but I have found it also works well on wood stands, particularly on carpeting which can have its own ripples, bumps, etc. . It helps spread the weight out over a wider area (more stability) and water is more likely to end up there rather than soaking into your carpet.> After I moved from my previous address, there was a solid square indentation left in the carpeting. I suspect the carpeting in my new place is really cheap, considering that every new tenant here gets brand new carpeting, and the carpet memory is really poor.  Excellent idea to put a piece of molding around the lip! My fish always splash me when I feed them, and I need to be quick with a towel. If you have a picture of this, it would be extremely helpful. <Don't have a picture, as my tanks now sit on a tile floor. but if you visualize the top part of your stand (where the tank sits) you get the general idea.  One more question, since you have the same stand...I was told to push the tank forward on the stand, so that the front wooden edge touches the tank's plastic frame. It looks better this way, because the gap is hidden in the back. Is this how you set your tank up? <Exactly how I have it set up.> Thanks again, <My pleasure> John <Mike>

Re: New stand setup – 03/22/09
Hey crew I contacted you guys last week concerning a 75 gallon glass tank set up on a metal stand. All your help and great advice has gotten me to the point where I am now and would like your opinion again if it's not too much trouble. Since my last email to you guys I went out and purchased a new iron stand which I noticed supported the tank in all four corners but the center pieces were not touching the trim on the stand.
<Mmm, with the tank filled?>
So I brought that stand back and replaced it for another one to my surprise that one had the same problem but it was a little less rather than return it I decided to work with it being this is the 3rd iron stand I had problems with I didn't want the store to think I was some kind of nut. So again I placed 3/4in plywood on top of the stand (I feel more comfortable this way) and I put the tank on top of it then I noticed that there was a small gap about an 8th of an inch between the tanks trim and wood. I was able to shim up the plywood with stainless steel strips to close the gap evenly to the bottom of the tank trim. The plastic trim around the bottom of the tank was pretty sung to the plywood I was not able to get my driver's license under it without forcing it. One or two spots were not as tight but it was still snug and the tank no longer was wobbly on the wood.
After checking everything in all directions with a level, measuring with a ruler and driving myself nuts with this for the past few days I decided to see what would happen if I put some water in it so I filled the tank up
just above the trim (on the bottom) and the little bit of weight that the water added seemed to even it all out I could no longer get my license under it anywhere even if I attempted to force it under I even used a piece of paper that is a little bit thinner and that did not fit. Should I continue to fill it up and make sure it stays level or is the solution I have come up with not good?
Thanks again you guys are a big help.
<I would fill this tank and try not to worry. Bob Fenner>

Re: New stand setup, level, what to use...    3/23/09
Hey Bob thanks for your reply.
<Hello Thomas; welcome>
To answer your question Bob. No the tank was not filled when the center braces of the stand were not touching the trim on the bottom of the tank and it was a pretty decent sized gap and I didn't think it would be safe to put any water in it at this point because I was unsure it if the tank need to be supported in that area and I was concerned that it might flex to the stand and cause stress on the glass or silicone. So I decided to play it safe and try to minimize the gap before adding weight to the tank.
<Sounds good>
According to the manufacture the most important thing is that the corners are supported do you guys agree with that?
<Yes; though, all the outer edge needs be supported to only a slightly lesser degree>
They gave me some advice before (regarding the tank being able to flex a certain amount) and when I
checked with you guys I realized that is was not good advice.
I know this sounds like a stupid question but maybe you can help me understand how the iron stand are designed to work because I can't understand why if the center braces were important they did don't put a
brace for support to keep them from bending and sagging or are those center braces just not that important?
<Seems to me that this is largely an instance of "social/industrial inertia"... That such stands have been produced as the one you have presently for so long... there's not been perception that such change is
warranted. I do want to make a comment re these stands though... I am not a fan, and the stores that I had a hand in putting up, managing, owning did not offer them... in S. Cal. the ground shakes too much, too often to give me enough sense of security that the tanks/stands wouldn't "go over" should there be a big lateral push>
I will try to get around to filling it up today and keep an eye on it to make sure it stays level.
Thank again Bob.
<Welcome again Thomas. BobF>

Extreme system leveling, more here than just a torqued stand, Tank leveling woes 3/3/2009
Hello Crew,
<Hi Jeff>
I would first like to thank you for your service. I am relatively new to the hobby and setting up my first "big" tank. I recently acquired a very nice "All Glass" brand 72gal bow-front tank with a matching oak stand, for a great price on Craigslist. Before I go headlong into this hobby I've been doing as much research as I can. Much of this has been on your site and it has been an indispensable resource.
<Glad to hear you find it educational.>
I have read through much of your pages on leveling stands and believe I have the basic idea. My big concern is the amount of space I need to adjust. The oak stand is supported by 6 main vertical legs that sit on a plywood base all shelled in by finished oak trim.
<With you so far, my stand is similar>
I will try to include a small picture. My tank is off 1/4" back to front, and 1/2" side to side. There is no twist in the tank as it is the same increment on each of the parallel sides. At least this is my observation with the tank only filled 2".
<So that narrows it down to the stand or the floor; most likely the floor, as tank and stand that was this torqued would never have survived. How does the stand measure up on a known level surface?>
Now, to get the tank to perfect level the left rear corner would have to remain at 0, while the front right corner would have to be raised to 3/4". I would need to continue at an evenly decreasing angle across the front of the bow ending at 1/4", thus taking the 1/2" inch out of the long side and the 1/4" out of the short. I would continue shimming around all sides until even. My question being, is 3/4" a realistic depth for standard cedar shims?
<I've never seen one that thick commercially available in wood, anything over 1/4 inch steel shims are normally used, and those are used for shimming structural steel.>
I assume there are several size options but most often I have seen 1/4" (at thickest part of the wedge), which means I would need to stack/glue 3 of them together to begin with.
<Stacking\Gluing wouldn't be recommended, adding more potential points of failure - glue, cracking\crushing, etc>
Also, this seems like a strange question but, how do you slide a shim behind a tank that's sitting flat against the wall?
<Removing the plywood base and shimming from the inside-out, which can cause problems of its own....>
I am not worried about the weight of the tank at this point as it is sitting on a load bearing wall, across several floor joists that happen to be 100 year old rough-hewn oak. The main support beam only spans 10 feet between the outside foundation and inner brick column.
<Assuming your stand is level, you are getting a huge amount of sagging in the floor. The minimum acceptable sag to be unnoticeable is 1/360th of the span, so in this instance, 120 inches\360 = 1/3 of an inch over 10 linear feet, you have more than that within 18 linear inches of the wall. Adding 700+ pounds is only going to make it worse.>
I've had it suggested to try to jack up the house.....not really my idea of a good afternoon project.
<Heheh, I don't think it would be anyone's idea of a fun project at any time. That said Jeff, I really think that is your safest\best option at this point. I cannot foresee any way to do what you are proposing without the potential for more problems down the road. If you shim the tank now, and the floor deflects any more, you will be trying to re-level a 700+ lb object filled with water. That is not a risk I would be comfortable with.>
Hope I'm not asking the same question you've answered several times.
<Not at all.>
Hoping to have fish sometime in the next 2 months.....and by then some of my hair may grow back. I seem to be pulling out handfuls.
<I can sympathize. Is there any other location in the house you could put this tank?>
Thanks for all of your help.
<My pleasure Jeff, I'm sorry I can't give you an easier answer>
Jeff
<Mike>

Setup Problems with New 350g Tank – 01/20/09.
Someone with the crew.... HELP!!!
<<Yikes! What’s the problem?>>
I spoke with Eric Russell a while back
<<Tis I again>>
about my future 340Gallon tank and it is now well under way and has hit 400 Gallons.
<<Neat!>>
I have hit a HUGE issue with it though concerning it being .... level in a sort.
<<Uh-oh>>
The stand is a concrete block and I-beam setup. (3 - W6X20 I beams supported on each end by a concrete wall, (block with concrete poured in holes))
<<Okay, let’s see if I understand… You have 3ea. 6”x20” beams (laminated, I assume) spanning approximately 7-feet and supported by cement-filled concrete block end walls. Sounds like more than enough to me…but what did the structural engineer say? [grin]>>
The beams were level when they sat without the tank front to back and side to side. (Checked with a 4 ft level, tank dims are 84X36X30) Over the weekend I got some unpaid help to pick the tank up and put it on the stand. During this process we construction glued the beams to the concrete, construction glued a 3/4 inch piece of exterior grade 7 ply plywood, that was sealed with Rustoleum paint, to the I beam, and then a 3/4 inch piece of insulation to level out inconsistencies. All of the gluing and then the placing of the tank on the stand happened within 30 min to an hour.
<<I trust you checked to make sure all was level and planar after each stage of the operation…>>
I started to fill the tank with tap water today to check for leaks, when I left to go out to dinner I threw the water hose back inside the house (it was attached to an outside spigot.). When I did this the water left in the hose began a siphon and sucked all the water back out of the tank. (It was only about an 1/8th - 1/4 full) So while I was frantically searching for a leak (not paying attention to the trail of water that had poured from the end of the hose I threw through the window), I found a 1/4" gap between the Foam/plywood/Tank on the front left corner.
<<Not good>>
The gap dissipates over the distance of the tank. And the front left is the only place it exists. Someone told me that the insulation foam will not even compress under the weight of the tank,
<<…!>>
and this wouldn't be the reason for the gap???
<<The foam WILL compress…but is not the reason for the gap. I wish you had supplied a picture…. Oh wait, you sent a link in a follow up email: (http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1515150&perpage=25&pagenumber=4). Ah okay, I see now>>
(I was thinking that the weight of the water that was in the tank would have caused it to compress a bit...maybe not?) I'm at a loss. The tank itself as it sits is still level front to back AND side to side.
<<Since this is an acrylic tank, I’m now wondering if the defect is in the tank and not in the stand…hmm… Acrylic tanks will take a bit of flexing…and this tank may well be fine in the long run. But… I would consult with the manufacturer of the tank before going any further. And if it turns out, I would also get any recommendation from them to press ahead “as is,” in writing>>
Signed,
Confused Reefer... :(
<< Hang in there Adam… It may turn out you need do no more than fill the tank and let it set a bit…or you may have to remove the tank and re-check and re-level the stand. But talk to the manufacturer of the tank first, they are the best to advise you here. Especially if you don’t want to void the warranty on the tank. Cheers mate, EricR>>

Re: Setup Problems with New 350g Tank – 01/20/09.
As I'm sure you've noticed from looking at the thread the I-beams were steel 6in at 20lbs per foot (3/4" thick).
<<Ah! No, I didn’t get this from the photo…but then I didn’t look over the entire thread>>
And no I didn’t level after adding the plywood, it was slightly bowed from when I painted it and I figured the weight of the tank would flatten it back out.
<<Mmm, I see… Then maybe the corner of the plywood is turned down a bit as a result of the bowing…I can’t tell for sure, but it does look as if the plywood extends a bit to the front past the beam?>>
The tank manufacturer is actually a local fish store that made the 120 in my basement now.
<<Oh good…>>
He is coming out Thursday to get the tank back on the stand and work with me to get it right.
<<Excellent!>>
I did find that taking a four foot level on the bottom of the tank it wobbled back and forth about 1/8 of an inch,...
<<Ah, okay… Probably not a big issue (or all that uncommon even), but we’ll see what the guy who built the tank says, eh>>
On the side that had the gap...
<<Well there ya go…>>
Hopefully we will be able to get things straightened out Thursday.
<<Am sure you will>>
Thanks for your input. :)
<<Happy to share. EricR>>

Defective Stand? 1/11/09 Hello gentlemen, <Hi Dave> I have recently had to exchange a newly purchased tank and stand several times due to various problems/defects such as scratches, cracks(!) etc with Oceanics...and decided to go with a different brand...this time a custom made 120 gallon tank with the All Glass "Mission" stand. I know that glass tanks with trim rest only on their bottom periphery, but this stand takes it to the extreme as there is only a 1/2 inch wide strip to support the tank. Having seen these stands at the store, essentially the tank will be supported by the very edges of the trim, not even the whole trim strip...makes me a little nervous. Anyhow, after getting the stand home (tank will be ready in 2 weeks) I was checking it out and noticed that the bar running across the back of the stand is about 1-2 mm below the side support areas...meaning that the tank will be essentially unsupported across the entire rear. I thought maybe at least the center vertical beam is supposed to support the rear middle but even this is too low and out of contact with a long level I placed across the back. I dread going back to the store and exchanging yet another item...I suspect the manager there thinks I am cursed! This can't be right can it? Is my stand defective? Is there a remedy? Any experience with these stands? <From a safety standpoint, I don't think a difference of .039"-.078" is anything to worry about. We are looking at a lot of weight here when the tank is full of sand, rock, and water and I'll bet then, that you couldn't get a .001" feeler gauge between the tank and the stand. If it makes you feel more comfortable, you could get some wood veneer and cut strips to fill in the difference. I'm guessing this is a knockdown stand and the assembly of it by a store employee may not be up to your standards. You may want to loosen a few screws here and there and see if you can't true it up to your liking.> Thank You, <You're welcome. James (Salty Dog)> Dave

Should I Go DSB or No??   12/31/09 Hello All, I am in the process of setting up a 125 gallon aquarium that I will be moving from my established 80 gallon Bow Front aquarium. My question revolves around my sand bed. I have five bags of the Carib Sea Special Reef Grade Sand, <A good product in my estimation> so far I have added just 2 bags of the sand into the tank and that gives me around 1 1/2" of depth. Now, my question is this, should I leave it be or add the other three bags for a DSB. <Yes I would... unless you intend to place a refugium below this system... in which case, I'd build the DSB there> Additionally the aquarium will rest on a DIY stand <Very nice from your pix> (plans were found on GARF website). The stand is actually pretty planar with a tiny gap in the center so to err on the side of caution, <? for expansion? Settling?> I added 1/2" foam (interlocking tile type). I have added a few photos as well. Any info will be much appreciated. Thank you, R. Morton <Thank you for sharing. Bob Fenner>

Re: Should I Go DSB or No??   12/31/08 Thank you for the response. Regarding the small gap in the center, it is the settling that I am trying to keep under control. Since the stand has already been Poly-ed (sp.??) I really don't see any reason why the wood would expand, but I know if I don't expect it to happen it probably will lol. Do you think I am being too cautious? I just don't want the tank crack from stress or worse. When I eyeballed the gap it was very small (could probably just slip an envelope under it). I honestly believed that with the weight of the water and sand etc. that this gap would disappear, but I added the foam just to be on the safe side. What do you think? <Not likely useful nor a worry> Thanks Again, R. Morton <Certainly welcome. BobF.> Re: Should I Go DSB or No??   12/31/08 I must apologize for all the emails. I was just on the CaribSea site and it says not to use the Special Grade Reef Sand for DSB's. I have both of your books and they have helped me greatly in the few years I have had my aquarium, and you haven't led me astray yet. Call me just being curious, so I am throwing this little bit of info out there to see what you think. <Well... finer (even smaller than nominal 1 mm diam.) "sand" is better for DSB use alone, but... as you stated, you already had the Caribsea product in place, with more bags to possibly apply... Let me see if I can make this clear/er... You would be better off with the finer material (and placing it instead in a refugium)... but if it were me, mine and I had what you state... I'd go ahead and add the other bags... B>

Another Leveling Question 10/3/08
Hi Crew -
<Tom>
I have read through a lot of your articles on aquarium leveling. Thanks for this information and all the other great info you have on your site.
<Welcome, happy to help.>
I have another question for you and really am not sure if I should be worried or not. I just bought an all-glass pine stand and an all-glass 40 breeder tank. I have put gravel in the tank and filled it up with water. Everything is level as we speak. Water level is level side to side and front to back. The tank and stand are on a carpet, FYI. I do have a small concern though and was hoping to get your input. I tried sliding a piece of paper between the tank and the stand to make sure that is ok. I could not squeeze the paper through for the most part. Except for one side area (back front and other side ok). One of the sides I can slide 1 sheet of paper between the tank and the stand for about half of it 8" or so. When I try 2 sheets of paper, I can't. The driver's license test passes. Does this sound like it could be an issue to you? Please let me know if I should be worried. FYI - By looking at the article that starts with the title "Tank Level 8/11/05" I am not worried, but looking further down I saw the article "New 75 gal setup question, tank not lying flat on stand" makes me worry a little bit. Any info you could give me would be appreciated.
<This in all likelihood will be fine. The tank will settle into the stand just a little bit anyhow, closing this small of a gap. However, I do recommend that you do set this tank (or just about any tank) on a piece of Styrofoam. Even just a 1/16” piece will fill/support the gap and compress to the point that it will not really be visually noticeable between the tank and the stand. Using the foam is just good practice and worth the effort, wood stands are very rarely perfectly level or planar.>
Thanks again,
Tom
<Welcome, have fun, Scott V.>
Re: Hi - Another Leveling Question
Thanks for the info Scott V. I appreciate it.
<Welcome Tom, talk soon.>

Re: Another Leveling Question 10/3/08
Yes. I sent a note to Aqueon about this also. I will let you know what they
tell me.
<Ah, yes. Please do. Scott V.>
Thanks again,
Tom

Tank Level? 9/12/08
Hi Crew,
<Dave>
I'm in the process of exchanging my 120 gallon tank because the original developed a compression fracture in the lower front corner of the left side pane.
<Geez, that stinks.>
The tank was on an Oceanic Tech stand (flat board bottom), which was shimmed with many many composite shims around the entire perimeter to level the water level. The front left corner had the greatest thickness of shim because it was the low corner before the shimming. Given the location of the compression fracture, and that the stand's top seems perfectly flat, I think that the shimming is what resulted in the fracture! Maybe the shims stressed the stand a little bit?
<If the bottom of the stand is not sufficiently rigid with the shims creating too much of a pressure point, it could.>
Now, the new tank is on its way and I rechecked the level of the stand again without shims, and it's off 3.5 mm front to back, and 6.5 mm side to side over the 4 foot length. As before, the low corner is the front left, while the right rear is the high one. Now, l'm hesitating about shimming again. I have read everything on the site about shimming aquarium stands and feel I had done it "by the book" the first time. Given that the aquarium is 25 inches tall, it’s hard to believe that a little over 6 mm (1/4 inch) is significant.
<It is, the forces put on the glass are on a slightly different plane. Also do not assume that the floor, even if unlevel, is planar.>
Should I shim again, or let her be?
<Definitely shim, you need this tank to be level. The best technique is to place the whole stand on a piece of plywood (even with the flat bottom) and cut your own shims long, running as along as much of the perimeter you can, minimizing any gap. Also, do set a piece of Styrofoam between the stand and tank. This will accommodate a bit of unevenness in the stand. Do check the tank with water for level after all this is done, things can shift depending on the flooring.>
Looking for some guidance, especially given past experience.
Thanks very much,
Sincerely,
Dave
<Welcome, Scott V.>

Flooring is equally unlevel; is this OK? -09/03/08 Good evening and thank you for any help or suggestions you may have. I have read through your site and could not find anything on floor leveling as it pertains to my situation. I built my own stand and built it oversized it measures 49" x 27" x 30" with added supports at the rear, 18", 24" and front depths. My current tanks is an aga 90 gallon, so it sits at the 18" depth support. <...?> The stand is built to take the weight, my concern is the floor I put the tank and stand on slopes down toward the middle of the room. <... danger> So now the entire stand and tank are off level front to back equally on both left and right sides about 1/4". <Too much> So it is as if the tank and stand were both leaning forward at about 1/4". Is that ok? <No> since it is not top heavy, as with a stand of the exact same size as the tank, is it ok for a tank to lean forward a bit? <Not this much.> Well a bit more than a bit. Everything else is level and the tank is on 1" Styrofoam. Let me know what you think and thanks again for all the help and for such an informative web site. Kudos to all. John <Needs to be level AND planar... see WWM: http://wetwebmedia.com/aqstands.htm and the linked files above. The present situation is extremely dangerous... the uneven force could result in a catastrophic failure here, even possible death should the tank fail with someone near it. I would empty and fix... NOW. Bob Fenner>

Re: Flooring is equally unlevel; is this OK? 09/04/2008 Bob Thank you for responding so quickly. I attached pictures of the stand so you can see that the stand is one solid piece and not on legs. There is both inside support as well as outside support, the flutes on both sides are actually built like a box out of 4x4 and then attached to the side of the inside supports. When you say failure; are we talking about the tank glass failing or the stand or both? <The glass> I won't be able to drain the tank until the weekend so now I am, obviously, very concerned. Thank you again for your help and such an informative site. John <Glad to conspire with you John. Bob Fenner>

Tank level, making it so  08/04/2008
I recently built a stand for a 180 gallon tank. There is a slab of concrete directly on the floor then a 3/4" sheet of foam. The stand is on top of that with another 3/4" sheet of foam between the wood and tank. The tank is about 1/16"-1/8" out of level from left to right, and it is about 3/16" out of level from front to back. The tank is now full of water. Should I drain it and try to shim the back two corners?
Thanks-Alex
<<I would personally drain and get the tank on the correct level. Best off starting the right way, and saves any potential wet floors in the future. The use of good wooden shims/chocks will easily sort this out. Hope this helps. A Nixon>>

Tank Leveling Help 6/2/08
Hello!
<Hello Christine!>
I am in the process of setting up a 55 gallon tank, but after preparing the water, I noticed the tank was not level. I believe the difference is about 1/2 inch, which the front being lower than the back.
<Yikes, that’s quite a bit!>
The tank is sitting on carpet and I've read on your site that it may need a piece of wood underneath or shimming, but I am not really understanding the process.
<Ideally one continuous piece (such as a sheet of ¾” plywood) placed under the stand. You will then shim between the plywood and the floor. The longer the shims and the more of the plywood you support the better.>
At this point, would I be able to save the salt water I already mixed up that's already in the tank or do I have to start over and lose this money already invested?
<No, you will just need something to put the water into while you work on the tank. A big trash can or Rubbermaid bin will do fine and you will find it helpful to have anyhow.>
I am helping my 15 year old son and he is very excited about having this new hobby, so I really would appreciate your help in explaining how to fix this problem. Thank you so much!
Christine
<Welcome, good luck, Scott V.>
 

Leveling on an old warped floor, Reading, using WWM   5/4/08
Hi,
I just bought a 55gal tank (48 x 12.5 x 21 inches) with a stand of standard construction 1/2" particle board (pretty sure it is level). However, I am
moving into a 1930's house on the third floor on hardwood. I am not 100% sure of the construction, but am trying to place it near an outside wall (my best option). Should I be more concerned about the weight issue against this outside wall?
<Yes>
I would be happy to put foam btwn tank and stand.
<Not of use here>
The main problem is the floor is obviously and grossly unlevel throughout the house. With a small amount of water the difference is that the front right
corner (away from wall) is 3/4" lower than back left. So from left to right I drop a 1/4" and from back to front I drop 1/2" (over 12.5 inches!).
<!>
I cannot adequately shim this amount,
<Sure you can>
and may have difficulty finding someone who can actually cut anything like that to specs.
<Such shims are available pre-cut from Lowe's, Home Depot...>
Thinking of screwing plywood boards together for extra support for the flooring, but completely unsure of how to compensate for such a large difference in the level and keep everything stable and safe. Please help.
Sincerely and with great admiration of past articles,
Jayson
<I would cut, place a good piece of ply (3/4" or even 1") under all legs of the stand, shim up the ply... the pre-cut wood from the hardware store... fashioning all w/o the tank on... coating the level-device (with a urethane, varathane), perhaps staining ahead to match the floor, stand... You have read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/aqstands.htm
the linked files above? Bob Fenner>

How level does a tank have to be ?/ Acrylic Repair
Tank Leveling/Sump Repair 2/15/08
Dear Crew,
<Eric.>
You’ve helped me with my various setups in the past, including this one, and was hoping you can answer this. I am setting up a 65 gallon AGA RR tank. The tank sits on a heavy duty wood stand that was built by the original owner.
The setup sits on a concrete basement floor ( no carpet, etc. ). The tank is level lengthwise, but the front is about ¼” lower than the back.
<Not good.>
If I am correct in assuming that that is a problem, what is the best way of leveling the tank?
<Shimming, cutting long tapered pieces to give support over the entire weight bearing areas of the stand.>
Should I shim it or run a length of ¼” wood under the front.
<The latter, along with long shims down the side to distribute the load.>
If shimming, do I place shims the whole length, and along the sides where they are now raised?
<Yes, just combine this with the continuous piece in the front.>
The shims will probably protrude from under the tank. Can I trim them?
<Yes.>
The setup also came with a DIY acrylic sump which has a leak.
There are no visible cracks in the vicinity of the leak so I am assuming it is a bad seal. I’ve been told to use Weldon to repair it but can’t find it locally.
<This sounds like a leaky seam. WeldOn will fix this, do be sure to thoroughly clean the area of any salt or other residue first (just rinse with water).>
I have found a hobby shop that carries a product called Tenax 7R, which the owner says he used to repair his acrylic skimmer. Would this be ok to use?
<Yes, this will work fine.>
Thanks,
Eric
<Welcome, good luck, Scott V.>

How level is level enough?   1/3/08
Hey Guys, great site!
I am setting up a 55 gallon ( 4 x 1 base ) on a wood stand on a carpeted floor (sound familiar?). Naturally, when I set the tank on top of the stand, it was off slightly. So, I began using wood shims to level the tank. I'm wondering if being about 1/16th of an inch out is ok? I've asked the guys at the local pet store and they simply responded with "it should be perfect". I've spent the last week and a half tweaking the shims, filling it, letting it settle, and measuring.
I have a smaller 10 gallon tank on a solid wood dresser that I've leveled with a piece of Styrofoam. The Styrofoam is great, but I'm not sure if it's possible for me to do this with my new 55g setup.
Instead of the tank sitting "inside" the stand, there is about an inch wide lip that the tank sits on top of. The pet store guy was baffled by this and didn't have any advice for me. I would prefer not to shim because it seems like it places pressure points on the corners. What is my best option for this type of stand?
Chris
<Hello Chris. When setting up a big aquarium, you want to make the tank as level as possible. This is usually easier by adjust the floor or stand that the tank is going to sit on. That said, teeny-tiny errors shouldn't be a problem. The 180 litre tank next to mere is definitely not flat by a similar amount to yours, and is fine. Anyway, you can use Styrofoam under tanks of all sizes, but do be aware that some aquaria are specifically designed NOT to be used with Styrofoam (typically they have external plastic bracing or trim along the bottom edges of the tank, and the foam interferes with this somehow). On the other hand, Styrofoam is generally safe with tanks that have a plain glass base pane with no bracing or plastic trim at all. So you need to review the instructions that came with your aquarium beforehand. Cheers, Neale.>

Leveling a 90g 1/1/08
Hello! Happy New Year's Eve!
<Hello, happy New Year now.>
I've been struggling all week to level my Christmas present, a 90 gallon AGA (MegaFlow).
<Nice gift.>
My question is whether/if I can salvage my DIY stand constructed from 4x4's (six) and 2x4's. Despite the fun in building it, it's just not level/planar.
<Leveling can of course be fixed via shims on the bottom of the stand, but how non planar is it?>
The last ditch effort was to cut a 3/4" plywood piece (49"x20") to fit between the stand and the tank, hoping to distribute the weight. I know well enough never to shim between the tank and stand, but is it at all acceptable to shim between the top of the stand and the bottom of the plywood to close the gaps?
<Maybe tricky to do. If you can cut the wood to make more of a wedge than just a shim, keeping even support around the perimeter where the tank will sit (leaving no gaps between plywood and stand).>
Again, nothing would come between the plywood and the tank- just the stand and the plywood.
Otherwise, I'm thinking I may have made a reasonably nice workbench.
<Wow, have I built a few of those. Do also consider the possible use of a self leveling epoxy on the top to give you a planar surface. If all you have built so far is the frame and it is very far off it may be less work to redo the stand. Whichever route you go be sure to place a piece of foam board between the stand and tank.>
Thanks very much!
<Welcome, good luck, Scott V.>

Acrylic tank leveling 12/17/07
First off I would like to thank you for all the great info on your site, and thanks for your time answering my question.
<My pleasure.>
I have a 29 gallon acrylic tank on a hardwood stand with 6 feet.... Tank was level when I set it up 9 months ago and now is not.
From left to right it is a 3/16ths off and from front to back it is 1/16th.
<Not ideal. When it was level nine months ago, was that empty or full? That could explain the difference.>
I have read in other places that acrylic is far more forgiving to these leveling issues.... is this true or should I be worried/tear everything down
and re-level.
<The current situation would not worry me too much. What grabs my attention is the fact that it is changing. Something is giving out/compressing.>
I think the floor under the stand is my issue so I am thinking if it gets any worse I will move it to another location in my living room.
<Sounds like the culprit.>
Would it be safe to leave as is or should I just bit the bullet?
<I would move it, perhaps check the floor if you have access to it underneath. It is likely possible to reinforce under the tank.>
Thanks again for all your help and advice
Alex
<Welcome, good luck, Scott V.>

Leveling a 75g AGA Stand – 03/07/07
Hi,
<<Hello>>
Apologies if this been answered but I am new and perhaps not understanding clearly.
<<Ok>>  
I set up a 75-gallon AGA aquarium on a pine AGA stand.  The aquarium sits flat on the stand- can’t get a piece of paper through anywhere.
<<Good>>  
The stand sits on a hardwood (2 ¼” oak) floor, perpendicular to the floor joists, so it’s sitting across 3 or 4 joists.
<<Also good>>
This type of stand is in contact with the floor all the way around.  It is level front to back.  Side to side it is not level (I’m using a 4’ carpenter level).  The right end is a smidge over 1/8” lower than the left end.
<<Mmm...as long as the tank and stand both sit flat and flush this is of little consequence in my estimation, unless you plan to fill this tank to the rim>>
I cut a strip of pine and slid it under the right end of the stand.
<<Not good enough I’m afraid.  If you shim the stand you will need to cut angled shims long enough to support the entire bottom edge (fill the gaps)>>
The bubble is now between the lines but favoring the right line – I raised it a smidge to high.  Probably this is close enough right?
<<If you support the “entire” bottom edge, yes>>  
But now the stand does not sit flush on the floor.
<<Indeed>>
I’ve seen comments about putting plywood down and then shimming between the plywood and stand, but that would seem to create the same problem unless I shim the gradation all along the front and back.
<<Agreed>>
Is that what I need to do?
<<If you shim at all...yes>>
Or is the 1/8+” variation not worth worrying about at all?
<<I would think this could be easily concealed by the tank trim.  As previously indicated, if the tank and stand are fully supported without any twisting/binding and the only issue is the slight “slope” to the floor then...tis up to you!>>
Not getting it…Thanks.
Kevin
<<Nah...you are “getting it” better than you think.  EricR>>

Re: Leveling a 75g AGA Stand - 03/07/07
Thanks - you made my day!  I'll live with the 1/8" slope (ok, after more precise measurement it's 3/16" slope) and avoid the shimming nightmare...
Kevin
<<Quite welcome, EricR>>

Leveling An Oceanic 75gal Reef Tank - 02/19/07
First off I would like to thank you for the great source of information on your website.
<<We hope you find it useful>>
You guys have answered a lot of my questions by answering other people's questions.
<<Ahh...excellent>>
Thanks.
<<Quite welcome>>
I was able to successfully level my tank by putting a 1-inch thick piece of aspen under the stand. (The stand is built by
Oceanic and is fit to the tank.) I then put shims between the floor and the piece of aspen, not between the stand and the piece of aspen.
<<I see>>
(I read on your site that something stronger than plywood is better so I got the aspen.)
<<Mmm, yes...though I find a couple sheets of 3/4" ply that have been "glued and screwed" together are "quite" rigid>>
I found that shimming between the floor and the aspen put less pressure on the stand.
<<This will work fine as long as the piece of Aspen is strong/rigid enough not to flex under the weight of the filled tank and stand>>
So... here is my question.  The tank is level, I can't fit even a playing card between the bottom of the tank and the top of the stand, but the tank and stand sway a little bit.
<<Mmm...>>
Not much, but when I push of the top of it, it will rock from side to side slightly.
<<I would need to "see" this movement to be sure.  A "very small" amount of movement might be expected considering the weight involved and the high center of gravity, but if the tank moves easily then I suspect you don't have the stand adequately supported or the stand is not strong enough for this tank...or maybe even, the floor itself requires shoring-up from below>>
Should I add shims all the way around the bottom of the aspen, or is this okay.
<<If the movement is due to gaps between the board and the floor, then use the shims to firm it up>>
OR... do I need to fix this problem immediately.
<<...?  If this is indeed a problem with the construction of the stand or gaps in the support as mentioned then yes, it needs to be addressed now>>
Thanks in advance for your advice.
Patrick C.
<<Hope it helps, EricR>>

Re: Leveling An Oceanic 75gal Reef Tank - 02/20/07
Eric,
<<Patrick>>
Thanks for your quick reply.
<<Quite welcome>>
I was able to fix the problem by bracing the tank against the wall. <A very good thing. RMF>
<<Excellent...I take it then that it was not a structural issue with the stand>>
There was such a minimal amount of movement that it wasn't hard to fix.  Now the tank and stand are as sturdy as they could get.
<<Good to know>>
Thanks again for your advice.
Patrick C.
<<Thank you for the follow-up.  Eric Russell>>

Question about leveling....    2/16/07
So i
<I...>
moved to a new house about a month ago, and this past weekend i brought my 75 gallon fish tank.  After setting it up, and introducing fish, i noticed it wasn't level!!!... I'm just wondering what the best thing to do is.
<Read on WWM re...>
It is only uneven in one direction, from the back to the front, with the back water level being about 1/4" lower than the front water level (looking at the tank from either side)  is it safe to keep it like this?
<No, not IMO... too likely to fail catastrophically.>
  i don't believe there is any "twist" involved, just the floor is uneven.  I can move the tank to another area, or shim it.  I have a Sedona series stand, which is on the ground all the way around except for the most  of the front (see this link:
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=11425&Ntt=perfecto
+sedona&Ntk=All&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Np=1&N=0&Nty=1)
If i was to shim it, what kind of material should i use and how big?
<I would cut, seal and place a piece of 1/4" plywood (of harder wood if possible) underneath the entire back (long) edge of the stand... twixt it and the floor>
  also when 'shimming', where exactly does the shim go?  along the whole base? or can it just go in the front?   Thank you.
<Please read here: http://wetwebmedia.com/aqstands.htm
and the linked files above. Bob Fenner>

Re: question about leveling....    2/16/07
Hi again,
I just read your reply, but what you said doesn't make sense.  If I put a piece of plywood along the whole BACK edge of the stand, that would make the problem worse.  As I said the water level is lower in the back than the front (measuring down from the top trim)....
<Oh... sorry re... I mis-read... The front needs to be raised?... Sheesh!>
so the tank is angled down from the back to the front......
<Very common... the middle of floors being lower (sagging) than the walls>
what i need to do is shim the front of the stand!   I actually tried this last night, after reading through your archives, and other websites.... I basically put two side-by-side wood shims under the left and right side of the front (total of 4 shims).  I then put a stack of shims (alternating, so they form an even size piece) underneath the middle-front of the tank where the stand doesn't touch the ground for extra support.  
<Again... I would support the entire stand edge...>
the tank appears to be leveled after using a carpenters level.
The bubble is in the same place on all parts of the tank.
<Good>
It's not exactly centered within the two lines, but the entire bubble does rest within the lines....
Do you think what I did will be good enough to hold?  Thanks
Dave
<Yes I do. Thank you for the clarification... I've got to drink my coffee before reading, responding! Bob Fenner>

Leveling a Flat Bottom Oceanic 75 stand..... 7/22/05
Hello WWM crew,
First, Thank you for taking the time to read my question.  I assume you read TONS of questions and it is difficult to keep up with the answers.  I have read through your site and Googled but can't find the exact answer to my question.  I really need your help on this one before I set up further.
<Okay>
I am replacing a 55 gal tank, which is 20 years old, with a 75 gal Oceanic Tank and Oceanic stand (49 X 19).  The Oceanic stand has a solid, thick, flat bottom which is great for dispersing the weight of the tank (across the surface area).   My question .... err hmm... problem is that the 55 gal stand did not have a solid bottom and it was shored/shimmed to make it level (3/8 inch front to back).   If I want to level (and planer) the 75 gal also... which I do... Do I just shim the bottom of the Oceanic stand but defeating the purpose of the flat stand bottom OR Can I put a piece of plywood between the floor and the stand and shim between the plywood and the stand.
<This latter route is correct>
  My focus is to level the aquarium and still effectively disperse the weight across a large surface area.
Thanks again for taking the time to answer my question,
Steve
<Thank you for writing. Bob Fenner>  

Tank not level 8/9/05
Hi,
<Hello Tom>
I have a 38 gallon glass tank sitting on a commercially purchased oak stand.  The stand is on a carpeted floor.  The house was built in 1992.
The tank has been in use for maybe 7 years now. Today, for some reason, I noticed that the tank is not level. It is 36 inches wide, and the water level appears to be 1/4 to 3/8 inches higher at on end than at the other.
<Yikes... too much>
I can't say whether it has been out of level like this for 7 years and I never noticed, or whether it just went out of level in the last 2 weeks while I was on vacation.  If it just went out of level, the house must be settling or something.
My question: is this bad enough that I have to fix it, or can I just watch it carefully to be sure it doesn't get worse?
Thanks,
Tom
<If this were my glass tank I would drain it down. shim the base of the stand... Bob Fenner>

55 gallon leveling  11/24/05
Hey there,
I was wondering about how I should go about leveling my 55 gallon aquarium, the stand is already leveled, but the center of the tank sits about 1/8th of an inch high,
<Mmm, too much...>
leaving a gap my drivers license can slide into, I was wondering if I could use carpet padding to put under the tank to support it?
Would this be a good idea?
Thanks,
Jerome
<Is a good idea. Please read here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/aqstands.htm
and the Related FAQs linked above. Bob Fenner>

55 gallon leveling - II - 11/25/2005
Hi Bob,
<Actually, Sabrina here, in his stead, as he's out for a while.>
So do you think the carpet padding would be enough to stick between the tank and the tank stand, or do you think I should go with Styrofoam?
<I would go with the Styrofoam.>
If I am to go with Styrofoam, what thickness would you recommend me getting? Thinnest I can seem to find at a reasonable price is 1/2".  
<This would be fine.>
Thanks,  Jerome
<Wishing you well,  -Sabrina>

Set Up/Level Tank   3/15/06
I just checked how level my tank is since I first set it up almost three months ago. The bubble (on my level) is slightly outside the line. The measurement from the base of the glass tank (Not the stand) to the wall is 3 5/16" at the top it is a little more than 3". So in other words the top of the tank is a little more than a quarter of an inch closer to the wall than the base.
The tank has been there since the last week in December. It is on carpet which is on a first floor concrete slab. Given the task of re-leveling an established 1000 pound (90 gal rectangle. + rock + sand) tank what would be considered excessive and require the breakdown and re-leveling?  <Not bad enough to mess with.  Now if 1/4 of the bubble were outside the line I'd re-level the tank.  More important that there is no twisting of the tank.>
As always thanks for the help.  <James (Salty Dog)>
Diver

Tank on the level? 03-21-06
Hi. I have owned a fish tank for over 7 years now, and about a year ago I moved it to my room. I was looking at the tank and realized I never checked to see if it was level. Now that I look at it the left side of the tank, [I can see] the water is a little bit higher. Is this a problem? It's been in my room like this for a year.
<Hello. Short answer: It depends on the size of the tank you're talking about, and the size of the differential. I haven't seen a longer tank yet that was perfectly level (the floors were not level. As long as it is on a planar surface, I would not be inclined to worry about it too much.
By the way, just a friendly reminder to please take the time to check your English before sending off the e-mail so we don't have to. Best regards, John.>
Please help

PLS Help! Please Take Your First Answer From A Crew Member! Please Capitalize! Please Fix Your Grammar/Punctuation! Please! - 03/22/2006
I have a tank in my bedroom. It's been in my room for a year, and I just noticed that it is unlevel.
<Are you sure? You wrote in about this same situation just the other day. It was on the Daily's also.>
On the left side of my tank the water level is about a half of a centimeter higher than the right side.
<As you've explained already.>
I was told that it is ok if your tank isn't perfect.
<Ah, yes! I remember the crew member explaining why he stated so as well.>
Is that true and will the water put to much pressure on the left side of my tank?
<Yes! 'Tis true to a certain extent. Depends much on, as you were told, how "off" it is, being set on a planar surface, Etc. You are fine. Please except the answers you get from our Crew. You've written in at least six times this week, with only three questions (possibly two). Every response you've gotten has confirmed the previous response. The only other thing that hasn't changed? You still don't correct your grammar, spelling, capitalization! We don't have the time for this. We HAVE TO correct these as we answer them for posting/archiving so others can read/understand the discussion. If you wish to send me yet another "hate mail" over this response (yes I saw your last) then so be it. What ever it takes, please stop abusing the valuable resource that is Wet Web Media and it's Crew.>
Oh yeah, it is on a stand made for aquariums.
<Well...at least it's not made for potato chips.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/QueryCorrsRefPg.htm - Josh>

Re: PLS Help! Please Take Your First Answer From A Crew Member! Please Capitalize! Please Fix Your Grammar/Punctuation! Please! - 03/23/2006
Ok, I <I> am sorry. What is a planar surface?
<Simply a surface with zero curvature. You don't want to place your tank on a wavy surface.>
And im <I'm> not trying to be mean but where do you guys get your facts from?
<Facts about? Do you mean, are we making this stuff up or did we actually learn it somewhere? - Josh>   <<What a day! RMF>>

Re: PLS Help! Please Take Your First Answer From A Crew Member! Please Capitalize! Please Fix Your Grammar/Punctuation! Please! - 03/24/2006
Yeah, did you guys learn this somewhere?
<?>
Oh, My stand is flat, but at the very ends of the stand it curves instead of being straight down.
<You mean like rounded edges? You don't want any gaps between the bottom edge of your tank and the top surface of your stand.>
Should I <ARRGH!! That's it, I've just ripped all of my hair out!>worry?
<No.>
I mean this stand is meant for a fish tank.
<Good plan. - Josh>

Best support for 60 gal window tank... as "in" place of the window!    4/16/06
My name is Don I recently built a 55-60 gal tank with 1/2" glass. The dimensions are 9 1/2  deep  X  37 wide X 38 height.
<Wow... hope you have long arms Don>
It will be placed on a 1 x 10 x 37 pine board that sits on top of a  masonry wall.
<I'd put a thin piece of foam twixt this tank and the pine...>
This opening used to be a window  that was removed  to provide an opening between two rooms. For the most part,  the board is level ....but one corner is not.....without the tank in it I can see about 1/8 inch drop.
<... I'd level this out for sure... with masonry>
I guess my question is,    besides Styrofoam, which I do not think will solve my leveling problem what other  type of compressible material could I use for this application??  
<Yes... perhaps an epoxy-based repair... this is too much gap>
I'm not sure yet how much it's going to weigh with everything in it. ( Gravel and other things. )
<Count on about ten pounds per gallon total>
The other question is should I build a flat steel plate frame and shim it with something like automotive  Bondo that's not compressible and then use 1/2 inch or thicker Styrofoam to separate the glass from the metal ?
<This is one approach, yes>
The top edges on both sides of the wall will have supports so no one can accidentally push the tank out of the opening, once it is level...
         thank you for your input
                   Don
<Mmm, what else to mention... This tank is going to be a proverbial "bear" to keep clean... and thermally stable... with exposure to the elements, sun... It may well be that you'll want to make this container into something other than an aquarium here. Bob Fenner>

New  125 not  level  - 4/11/2006
Ok ive
done a search but Im
still unsure what to do here. I just finished putting up my new 125 gallon transferring corals fish rock from my old 55. Got it full and realized I am a little over 1/4 inch off level from left to right.
front to back is ok. I did shim a little on the front right but still not good. So how serious of a problem is this?
<Could be real trouble>
should I address immediately or am I ok for a while to see if it settles some? Should I completely drain or am I ok. Not sure what to do and how soon?
<If it were me/mine, I'd empty, re-level and use a bit of support material as detailed on WWM. Fix your English before mailing us please. Bob Fenner>

180 AGA with twin overflows question  - 05/19/2006
Hello WWM Crew,
Love your site.  Your FAQs are always the first place I look when I have aquarium questions, and I couldn't seem to find the answer to the issue I am facing with my brand new 180gal (6'x2'x2') AGA with twin Mega-Flow overflows and an AGA Model 4 Sump.  
The tank is built into the wall in my basement, on a DIY stand made from 4x4s, 2x4s, plywood, and carriage bolts.  The concrete basement floor is not level, but I purchased a 4' carpenter's level to help me with properly leveling the aquarium.  I spent the better part of an afternoon leveling, filling, draining, shimming, and re-leveling the aquarium until I've reached the point where I am satisfied that the tank is level.  The bubble is inside the lines no matter where I place the carpenter's level on top of the aquarium.    
Here comes my problem, I fill the tank up and the water spills over the overflow boxes, but the left overflow box seems to fill up faster than the right overflow box.  Does this mean that my tank is still not level?  It took the right overflow box almost another full minute to fill to the point where the water drained down the Durso standpipe into the sump.  
Could this be an issue with the way my tank was manufactured, as in maybe one overflow box was off by a few MMs when it was assembled/siliconed? Or is it more likely that my tank is still not "perfectly" level?  Is this something that I should be concerned about?  Will this reduce my flow significantly out of the right overflow box into the sump?
Any thoughts you may have are greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Dave
<<Dave:  I have the same tank on a stand.  While I don't have stand pipes, my overflows seem to drain about the same.  It could also be the height of the teeth at the top is different or the number of teeth on one side versus the other.  If you are convinced that your tank is level (you might want a second opinion from someone else to make sure), then everything will probably be OK.  Another test of whether it is level or not might be performed by measuring the height of the water to the top of the tank with a ruler around various points.  If it's the same, you're probably level.  Best of luck,  Roy>>

180 Starfire Oceanic with 1/4" higher corner  - 05/13/2006
Dear Crew:
<Tim>
Wow! What an impressive collection of knowledge you provide! Thank you. I have been reading for weeks, and although I have searched and read, and read further, I have some specific questions I am not 100% sure of. I may be re-iterating that which has been answered often before. If so, your kindness once more, please!
<Hotay!>
My major concerns are about leveling the tank (see below), but here are the data of what we have running:
We are 1/2-year freshwater enthusiasts, progressing from 20g to 55g to now 180g freshwater. Your website has helped us so much! Thanks. The latest (and perhaps last for a while) tank has cycled and we are nearing adding a dozen angelfish.  We have 6 Bolivian rams, a Kribensis female, a Venezuelan (German) ram, 9 head/tail-light tetras (nobody eats them!), and 9 red wag platys. They love their tank, and are displaying great colors. For lighting we have 2x 24" Aqualights (temporary), 3x 450W MHs (was intended as a saltwater by prior owner, look beautiful when we are home in the evening, great shimmer effect, we run 1 or 2 at night for 2-3 hours), 1x 160W VHO AquaLight 10k and 160W actinic (not yet wired).
<I'd switch this lamp out for more "white">
Water temp rests at 80-81 degrees. Water acidified to 6.8pH (local is 7.6), nitrate 10ppm, nitrite 0.25ppm, ammonia 0.125ppm,
<Mmm, these last two... should be zip>
hardness 80. Below tank is 30 gallon sump with bio-balls, 1200gph (soon to be 3600gph) pump; substrate is slate, various types of washed gravel, small area of sand, numerous sword plants, some others. Fish generally very excited about life, eat tropical crisps, live blackworms, mini cichlid granules for the rams, and occasional veggies. Canopy is 14" tall (yes, a beauty, we love it). Tank stand is standard 32" tall. Not totally Amazon biotype, but general idea is there.
The tank seller is a LFS-store owner, who never set up his dream marine tank, and sold it to us. Starfire 3 sides, high-grade ballast for MHs, all appears in a great shape. Never had water before. It has been water-filled for 3 weeks now. He came and plumbed it, and set it up. He is still helping, but I have concerns about some of the advice. The tank (72"x24"x24") sits on an Oceanic 180g oak stand, on 18" size tile floor which is generally planar and level, however the front left corner of the tank is 1/4" lower water level than the other three corners (so, its 1/4" higher on the tile, correct? yikes?).
<Yes, yikes>
He made little deal of this and suggested shims from HD.
<Needs to be done... stat! Drain this tank down...>
After reading your wonderful resources, I see that shimming while full is foolish, and we need to empty.  The Oceanic stand has continuous contact with the floor. The tank appears to have fabulous contact with the stand (I don't see where I could place a drivers license or pieces of paper between tank and stand). For that matter, cannot place paper between stand and floor, yet the water level is clearly off by 1/4" at front left corner.
It seems this is not a good place to leave it. Placing a spirit-level on canopy, tank side, stand and floor yield similar results, about 1/8 of the bubble is out of the square. The rise from left-back to left-front side is 1/4" over 24" from right front to left front rise is also 1/4" (of course). Silicone appears okay, minimal bubbling anywhere, definitely no bowing (of course glass is extra thick because of starfire grade).
<... yes... this laminate, like all glass is a super-cooled liquid, not really a "solid"... can/is "giving" a bit here, along with the Silastic sealant... but not a good gamble>
Here is my plan (please critique and correct):
1. remove canopy, drain 140-150 gallons into temporary Rubbermaid containers nearby, lights off to save the plants, 30gallons remain in tank with gravel
2. perhaps move rams into temporary 10g (new) tank with the same water, Neons into another 10g and platys into another 10g (we can get new ones for $8 each, seems cheap investment)
<I'd remove some of the rock perhaps, but not the fishes... too stressful, unnecessary>
3. remove some of the slate and larger rock (we could clean the algae bloom off at the same time by boiling the rock)
<I wouldn't boil...>
4. shim right front corner approx 1/8", check level and planar (if it is, fill in every 4-6 inches with shims that do not change level or planar status)
5. shim left rear and right rear corners the same, reinforce every 6 inches, check level and planar all around
6. this leaves the rear ground-contact of the stand unsupported, but may be hard to shim because close to wall. Struggle on and shim it, ignore it, or should we rather be thinking of moving the entire stand and tank, placing foam or plywood on the tile (please say no to this), then stand on top of that, then tank on top of that, then refill to 20-40 gallons, and recheck level and planar (possibly shim again)
<Not necessary to add the padding>
7. add more water back, check level and planar
8. add fish
9. top off to allow water circulation to resume, plug in pumps etc
From what I have read the 1/4" higher at front corner is potentially very bad, but may be reasonably remedied with the shims.
<Yes>
I wish 1 corner was 1/4" lower, then only a few shims. The way it is, we will have to shim 3 sides (really should be 4).  Going back to the LFS guy, he was not too worried because it is a solid bottom stand.
I want to correct the problem soon, but am hesitant to rush in and make it worse, and really regret.  We have adequate Rubbermaid containers to safely store 150gallons water temporarily, and I have external PVC inventions to both drain and restore the water level.
We also have established 3x10g, 1x20g and 1x55g tanks, but the pH is nearer to 7.0 in each.
Sorry if this is overbearing detail, but wanted to provide enough for you to answer. We love this tank, I want to make sure we do a very good job. My significant other thinks I am way too engrossed in the whole thing, and just wants to get the angels in there (now that the tank is cycled).
Thanks so much! Eagerly awaiting your thoughts.
Best,
Tim in Florida.
<Thank you for writing so thoroughly, clearly. Good luck, life with this project. Bob Fenner>

Set-Up/Tank Leveling    4/25/06
Jon from NB Canada  <James from Michigan>
Hi, I would like to say your site is great.  <We thank you.>
I have a 55 gal tank with a homemade stand, it has 2x4's on all 4 sides top and bottom. My question is first on water level. Right know I have a difference of 1/16 of an inch at one corner. Is this acceptable? <Yes.> Second you suggest foam for between the tank and stand to take up imperfections. I don't have foam but was wondering if a thick blanket would work. probably about 1/2 inch thick. <Styrofoam works well and is cheap.  Don't like the blanket idea.>
Thanks for the help
<You're welcome.  James (Salty Dog)>
Jon

Big Tank Not Level On Stand - 08/26/2006
Hi there, I realize there are quite a few questions very similar to mine, but my problem is slightly different. I have a 180 gallon tank that measures 6x2x2, I believe it is the standard size. My tank sits on a metal stand, both were purchased special order from a very reputable independent store in my city. The tank however does not sit perfect on the stand. The front right corner, and the rear left corner, do not rest on the tank stand, and I can see about a 1mm gap. So it's like the bottom plate of glass is slightly twisted.
The tank is completely empty at the moment. Some places I have read suggest filling it, and the tank will "settle" and be fine. Others say to shim, some say to put Styrofoam, and some say a wooden board underneath the tank. Some places even say don't do one of the other things. What would be the best thing to do? The tank itself, stand, and floor are all level entirely within the lines at all ends. Thanks in advance!
< Notify the store owner or manager where you bought the tank and let them know what is happening. Get recommendations from him and ask him about the guarantee against breakage and leaks. If he says it is OK then place the stand and tank up in your driveway, outdoor patio etc, just on a competent flat surface and fill it up. I an guessing than the weight of the water on the tank will settle on the stand and things will flatten out. If no problems are observed and the tank has flattened out the stand then you should be Allright. If anything does break or leak then it will happen outdoors and not in your living room. Check the floor in you house and make sure it can handle the additional weight. A 180 gallon tank will weight close to 1800 lbs after it is set up.-Chuck>

Aquarium Leveling   8/16/06
Dear WWM Crew,
    Hello and thank you for taking the time to read this message.  I have a problem and would greatly appreciate your advice on the matter.  
    I recently finished the construction of a DIY aquarium stand for a 30 gallon aquarium. I was overall pleased with the stand's stability and looks.  The design has (4) 2x4s as legs and are secured perpendicularly by 2x4 frames at the top and bottom of the legs.  The top and the bottom both have 3/4 inch plywood panels that cover the frames.   I brought it into the house and placed it in the intended spot.  I leveled it using a carpenter's level and a few shims.  (My basement floor is not exactly even.)  After that I placed the aquarium on top of the stand and noticed that the aquarium could "rock".  The best way to explain it is that when you press down on the rear right corner of the aquarium the front left corner lifts off the stand a rough 4 mm and vice versa.
<Yikes... yes, the floor is "strong enough" to show it level w/o the added weight on it...>
If you hold down one corner of the aquarium and measure the gap on the other side it comes out at about a 4 mm gap that spans 29" along the aquarium.  I  think that the top plywood panel is bowed upwards in the middle and is causing the problem.
<Mmm, not likely... if attached (nailed or screwed) about "right", every six inches or so along the top of the two by's... would be planar, flat...>
I have read in related questions that others having a seemingly similar problem have utilized a Styrofoam pad between the aquarium and the stand.  Is my problem too severe for this solution?  
<Not really... best to put an equivalent weight on the stand, level it then...>
Obviously shimming one edge of the aquarium wouldn't work.  I haven't attempted to fill the aquarium or plan on doing so until I have solved the problem.
<Thank goodness>
If you think the foam would work please also suggest a thickness.  Or if you have any other ideas please do not hesitate to voice them.  
    Thank you for your time,
    Andrew             
<Weights... perhaps thick books... and shimming the stand. Bob Fenner>

New Setup Out of Level - 12/06/06
Hello,
<<Howdy>>
I'm new to your site and I'm glad I found it.
<<Me too!>>
It's a fantastic site.
<<Thank you...a collective effort>>
But I couldn't find an answer to my specific problem.
<<Ok>>
I just got a new 55 gallon aquarium and of course it was out of level, but left to right.
<<Mmm...have you determined if it is the tank or the stand?  Or maybe your floor?>>
I got it level using a 1x2 under the right side of the stand.
<<That is a "lot" of adjustment...if the problem is not your floor being out of level (often the case); I would seriously consider returning this setup>>
I'm assuming I should put support in the gap between the stand and the floor.
<<If you go further with this setup yes, you will need to provide support under the entire length of the stand>>
If this is right, what do I need to use?  Would shims be okay?
<<If you have the means (or know someone with a table saw/woodworking skills), a piece of wood as long as the gap and "ripped" to the proper angle would be best...otherwise...bridging the gap with shims could work.  You will need to place the shims in pairs facing one another and "push them together" until the gap is filled.  But I must state, with as much deflection as you describe I would rather see you try to get the setup replaced rather than trying to "shim" such a large gap>>
And front to back, it's about a 1/16th out.  According to your FAQs, this should be okay, correct?
<<I would make the stand as level as possible in both directions>>
Also, the stand is higher in the middle, about a playing card or two.
<<This amount of deflection should be of small consequence...an acrylic tank will flex slightly to adjust...a glass tank will likely not even touch depending on the thickness of the bottom "surround">>
(My wallet is upstairs and my wife is asleep and I don't want to wake her to get my drivers lic.).
<<...?>>
Will this settle when the tank is filled?  Or should I use the Styrofoam?
<<I always prefer to use foam under my tanks>>
If I do need to use the foam, how do I do it?
<<For glass tanks, I use a piece sized to and just thick enough to fill the air space under the tank when it sits on the stand...for acrylic tanks I use a piece of 1/4" foam sized to the outside bottom dimension of the tank>>
Thank you so much for your time and your dedication to helping us novices.
Thanks,
Jeff Gerhart
Houston, PA
<<A pleasure to share.  Eric Russell...Columbia, SC>>>>

Re: New Setup Out of Level - 12/06/06
I forgot to mention I bought the stand when I bought the aquarium. I don't know if this matters to you or not.
<<All the more reason to "take it back" for replacement>>
Thanks again,
Jeff Gerhart
Houston, PA
<<Regards, EricR>>

R2: New Setup Out of Level - 12/06/06
It's not the stand or the tank, it's the floor.  Mickey Mouse and Goofy built the house and there isn't a level spot in it....it's fun to try and drywall.
<<Ayeyiyi...3/4" drop in a four-foot span!...must feel like you're rolling down hill *grin*.  Good luck leveling the tank...do make sure whatever you use is stable and supports the entire base of the stand.  EricR>>

Leveling tank    12/26/06
<Greetings!  Mich here.>
I recently purchased a 240 gallon tank with stand I notice the tank is ¼ in off to one side the tank sits on carpet so do I level the tank before adding water?
<I think this would be wise.>
This tank is very difficult to move and I know the tank will settle but how much?
<Depending on your setup, you may want to consider putting a sheet of solid insulation between the tank and the stand.  This will assist with leveling your setup.  Hope this helps.  -Mich>

Re: leveling tank   12/27/06
<Hello Lee, Mich with you again.>
Thank you very much for your reply the only problem I have is that the type stand I have (wood) has a lip that goes around the tank making it difficult to put insulation in between could I put something between the stand and carpet to make sure I have no weak spots when I adjust the 1/4 inch on the one side ?
<Is a viable option.  Still may want to consider a very thin piece of rigid insulation in between the tank and the stand.  It is very easy to cut this type of insulation to the correct size, (usually has aluminum foil on both sides) but you may want to get the thinnest you can find.  Whatever you decide works best for you, it is important that everything is as level as possible and the weight is evenly distributed.>  
Thank you very much for your advice
<You are very welcome.  Good luck!  -Mich>
Lee

Tank Stand
Help Me Crew!
I built my own stand for a 120g tank (60x18x24) some months ago.  I was not ready for the tank at that time, so I had a 46 gallon bowfront on it up until last week when I bought the 120g for my pair of Oscars.  
Well I have the tank on the stand, added the substrate, and excitedly am ready to fill when I notice that in the front only a foot on each end of the tank is solidly making contact with the top of the stand.  I can slip a piece of paper easily underneath everywhere else.  The back, however, seems to be touching except in a few spots.  All four corners are solid.   
<Oh oh>
The top of the stand was pieced together with leftover plywood (all cut from the same sheet) and I have done this several times on other stands without issue.  Is this really dangerous to fill the tank as is?  What are your best recommendations?
<My only recommendation is to carefully empty the tank and insert something that will make all edges of the tank touch the stand equally. If the gap is small, perhaps inserting some closed cell Styrofoam sheet will do (available at Lowe's, Home Depot...). Leaving it as is, particularly if a glass tank, is asking for trouble... it may split a seam. Bob Fenner>
Thanks as usual, Ryan Achenbach

Tank and stand
I have a 29 gallon wide tank that has been set up for about 2 years, and right after I first set the tank up I noticed a gap in between the center of the lengthwise section where the tank and stand meet. It's been in the back of my mind for a while and was wondering if I should do something about it.
<I would... take the tank down (as in empty it as if you were moving... please see here: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/movingaq.htm) and repair the stand (straighten it), and/or place material (like a cut sheet of plywood) under the entire bottom (edge) such that it is all coming in contact in the same way. Please read here re stands: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/tksstds.htm
It's not uncommon for tanks in your situation to "crack" w/o any (further) apparent cause. Bob Fenner>

Aquarium unstable - please advise Hello All <Hi Barry> Thank you for taking the time to assist this newbie. I have read all your articles, but still cant find the answer to my problem. Been running tank(91x32x34) for 3 weeks, haven't started adding fish to my tropical tank yet. I've got a problem with vibrations from the traffic of people walking in the room causing water level movement. I have been told that it wont be too much of a problem for the fish (except that they may start hiding in the rockwork) but I am concerned about the stress to the glass from the weight of the shifting water. The floor consists of wooden floorboards. I include pictures. <Yikes... very VERY dangerous situation!> I tried putting a piece of wood under the stand and tried putting in another position in the same room, but that never helped. The current spot is great for viewing. I am considering getting a metal shelf manufactured or alternatively anchoring the stand to the wall, but don't know where to start. <I do. Drain this tank down... NOW, and nail or better screw a set of boards (likely one by's will do) around the base (outside) the tank stand (yes, into the floor)... AND shim up the legs/base of the stand to make sure it is level and planar. Please see here on WWM: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/tksstds.htm> What would you recommend to stabilize the tank and how do I go about doing it? I want a community tank, but I'm not sure which fish to get. Can you suggest non aggressive, active & a colorful mix of fish? thought of getting cardinal tetra. neon tetra. clown loach. platy. swordtail. clownfish does it make a difference if I get them all at once or should I get any specific hardy ones first to get the cycle started. already added Nutrafin cycle + aqua plus tap conditioner. Ph level is +- 6.5 at the moment. Any other advise would be greatly appreciated. Thank you soo much, I appreciate the help. Barry <No worries, concerns about what you want to place in this system, BUT real trouble with the tank as it is now... it could BURST and cause real damage, injury. Please do drain it down NOW and effect the repairs listed. Bob Fenner>

Tank out of level, again
Howdy,
<Hi there>
I've got a 38-gallon All-Glass marine tank that was purchased about 4 months ago to replace a 30-gallon that had a seam let go (luckily I arrived home apparently seconds after it happened and didn't lose a single critter).  Inspection revealed that the tank, although level when it had been set up, had slowly gone out of level (it's on a carpeted floor with a thick pad underneath the carpet).  I suspect this, combined with the fact that the tank was about 20 years old, was it's downfall.
When I set up my 38 I was really super-paranoid about getting it level, and it was right on the dot.  Recently I've noticed that it no longer is.
<Oh oh>
It's not way way off yet, but I'm concerned after what happened before.  Anyone have any ideas (or experience) on how to level afully-stocked tank?  I don't want to have to break it all down again!  I can drop the water level maybe by half for the process, it's actually holding about 26 - 27 gallons of water after the live rock and such is figured in.  Thanks for any advice you can give!
-Mike Gorman
<Please do take the time to empty the tank... this is the ONLY safe way to go about re-leveling it. Also, am curious as to what caused it to "go out of level"... If the cause is floor settling of some sort, I encourage you to place a thick enough (3/4" or more likely) piece of plywood under all feet of the stand/support to spread out the force/mass and shim this support in turn. Bob Fenner>

- Leveling the Tank -
Hi,
this is Mohammed again, and I am having a small problem with the tank not sitting level right now. I tried asking the question on the forum and took advice from many people and heard all sides of the story but I am still not convinced on which way to go!
My stand is an "E" shape, i.e.. it has 3 parallel legs with the front of the tank sitting perpendicular to the three legs. My 80gal tank sits on the stand and there is a twist in the tank! the water level is 1/2" off on the back right side and 1/4" off on the front right side.
I was given the advise of shimming the stand, and I did go and buy the shims, but they look very weak to me and I don't think they will hold ~1000lbs. So I would rather not do this if there is an easier and safer way to go. <In my opinion, this is the easiest and safest way to go... I've done this myself with a 180g tank and it works just fine. The weight is not such an issue.>
I was also given the advice of using Styrofoam between the tank and the stand by many people, however the physics behind that does not make sense to me (even though it is the way I want to go because it is the cleanest and safest). Is it true that this works? <I've never tried this as a self-leveler, and I'm not convinced it would work. If the stand is not level, then the Styrofoam won't be level either... leaving us with a tank that's not level.> If there is a heavier side, and I put Styrofoam, wouldn't that same side sink/dip even more? <Is in line with what I'm thinking.>
Please help me because I am a bit confused. <Use the shims, it will work and be plenty safe.>
thanks
Mohammed.
<Cheers, J -- >

Fun With Foam...
Hello WWM crew and Happy Friday!
<Hey there! Scott F. with you on Saturday (better late than never, I guess)!>
I am about to setup and fill with water my new 75 gallon AGA black
plastic framed tank.  I wanted to add Styrofoam under the tank to help buffer any inconsistencies, while the stand appears to be plane and level, I am worried that even a slight inconsistency would eventually spell disaster.  Is this presumption correct?
<It's a good premise to operate on. On the other hand, I think that you need not be overly concerned, if you are using a very thin layer of foam. Being soft material, it should conform to the weight of the tank and contents. However, do check with the tank manufacturer, just to be sure!>
I bought pink construction Styrofoam sheets at my local HD, and my
question is where does the Styrofoam go?  Clearly between the tank and the stand, but do I cut the foam so that it is flush with the black plastic frame?  Or do I cut so that the black plastic frame hangs over the foam, and the foam rests directly on the bottom glass?
<That's what I would do, then you can trim the excess foam>
I have cut it so that it is flush with the frame (so that the foam is exactly the same footprint of the tank, not a mm more), but I am not quite sure if this is right I appreciate your help here, as I am about to set this up and do not want a flood. James
<Agreed. If I were to do this, I'd certainly do it the way that you did it. Again, just to be sure- check with the manufacturer>
Well, James- I think that about covers this! (No pun intended)

How to level my tank.
Hey all!
<Hello>
Just set up a 55 gallon freshwater tank. was keen to get going and I have realized that the tank is not level.  WAY not level.  I've been sitting with it for a while but it has to be fixed pronto.  The tank is sitting on a 1" piece of Styrofoam, but should I level the tank stand or can I level the tank with shims between the Styrofoam and the tank stand.
Either way I have to drain the beast.
<Mmm, first need to know the origin of the lack of level... is it the floor? The stand? Start from the bottom up... and level and make planar the entire floor and possibly (if it is not the root cause) the stand itself... don't rely on a piece of foam to even any unleveled surface. Bob Fenner>
Thanks for your input.
George Meldrum
<Drain the tank... and level "all the floor" with one piece of wood under all legs... this can be shimmed between it and the floor.>

- Leveling An Aquarium Stand and More! -
Hello,
<Hello to you, JasonC here...>
4 questions (for the price of 1.  Thanks for the patience from someone returning to the hobby.)
Question 1:
First, let me say I am very impressed with the web site.  The amount of information is staggering.  But, I can't find any info explaining how to level a tank and stand. <There will be after today!> I have a 125 gallon glass tank (72lx18wx23h) that will be setting on an oak stand. The stand will set on ceramic tile.  I am pretty certain the stand will not set completely flat on the tile, as most tile floors are not completely flat. The stand will be custom made by a local stand maker (I want a 31" opening for sump access.)  It's not an open stand with 4 corner posts.  The support will come from the walls of the stand which will be made from oak plywood.  Therefore, there are long edges that need to be supported by the floor. <Yeah... do this, obtain some shim-wood from the hardware store - this stuff is typically used for shims in doorways and windows during construction and remodeling. Then, put the tank on the stand in the intended location [don't forget to space away from the wall] and then put enough water in to cover the bottom, and raise the level just above the bottom frame of the tank - this will be your level. Then, find the low point and begin sliding in the shims, tapping into place lightly with a hammer. Work your way around the tank making sure to fill any spaces between the stand and the floor. Also make certain that you don't put the shims in so tight that you end up making the low corner into the high corner. Chances are good that you won't get it the first time, but be patient and you will be rewarded with a level tank - once your work is complete, use a utility knife with a sharp blade to trim the shims flush with the cabinet.>
Question 2:
My setup will be the 125 gallon FOWLR tank with a 1/2" to 1" fine sand bed and a 65 gallon refugium.  The refugium will have a DSB with critters, LR and macro-algae.  My question is:  In what order to I introduce the following items:
a) Live rock into fish and refugium tanks
b) Macro-algae into the refugium
c) critters into the refugium
d) Fish into the fish tank
e) bottom-cleaners into the fish tank (stars, etc.) <In this order: A - B - C - E - D >
Question 3:
This may seem to be a simple question, but again I have not seen an answer. <No worries.> If the refugium contains macroalgae and sand-dwelling critters (amphipods, copepods, worms, etc.) does this tank need to be fed? <It won't hurt at the onset, especially if you're not feeding fish at the time.> If I add shrimp I know they would need to be fed, but what about the sand dwellers? <They all need some food - be very stingy with the food.>
Question 4:
My son would like a 29 gallon FW tank in his room (30lx12w), but the carpet in his room is plush. I'm trying to determine how to place the tank in the room without it falling over and having it remain level. One idea is to purchase leveling furniture legs and attach them to the stand.  This would let the 4 corners sink into the carpet to the concrete?  Does this sound like a good idea? <Well - the smaller the area of contact with the floor, the higher the pounds-per-square-inch in the contact area. I would think that once the tank is full, there will be enough weight to keep the whole thing steady - I've kept a 75 gallon tank on plush carpet before for years, no problem. Just no Tarzan games on the tank...>
Thanks for a great site!
Eric
***
<Cheers, J -- >

"Tanks, Stands & Covers for Marine Aquarium Systems" - 4/21/2003
To the crew:
I just read the above titled page:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/tksstds.htm, and I have a question.  Under "Stands" you wrote of the terms "level" and "planar".  In the "Level" paragraph, you wrote "adjust with shimming legs/base of the stand".
In the "Planar" paragraph, you seem to refer to the area between the stand and the aquarium being flat to each other.  No problem there.  My problem is this:  I had to shim the base of my stand, which now makes the tank water "level", but the area between the stand and the floor no longer "planar".
<Mmm, not the space here (betwixt floor and stand) that needs to be planar, but tween the tank and stand>
Am I missing something (related to the subject, please :)?  Isn't the shim causing a problem as well as solving one?  Are there special shims and I only have regular shims?  Thanks, Rich
<Shims are shims to my understanding. But better that they be long/er and wide/r and non-compressible than not. Bob Fenner>

Iron stand and leveling
Hello,
     I have a 55 gal tank on an iron stand. I just moved and it now sits on a concrete floor that is of course not level. I see so much online (including your wonderful site) about shimming. Though there are never any pictures of this process I imagine this entails using wedge-shaped wood under the stand--wood stands.
<Yes... but the shims may be other material... sometimes metal shims are better>
My iron stand's two front legs contact the floor with U-shaped iron bars. They are relatively thin. How would I go about shimming and/or leveling these?  
<Mmm, sometimes... it's better to actually have a piece of plywood under all four feet and shim up this material... You can use the tank itself as a level... with just a bit of water to coat/make an even bit of water on the bottom... or a carpenter's level (again, on the tank itself, on the stand...)>
Currently one side is 5/8 of an inch higher than the other.
<Yeeikes!>
It is completely level front to back....
Thanks.
Lance
<This is quite a bit of difference... glad you didn't try filling it yet. Bob Fenner>

Nearly Flat Tank Stand - 07/09/05
Hello Crew!
<<Howdy>>
I love your site; it has helped me numerous times!  
<<Glad we could be here <G>.>>
I just purchased a 180G glass tank and built a stand for it.
<<I love DIY.>>
I purchased the straightest wood I could find, and surprisingly, the top surface of the finished product is near perfect in flatness.  Note the word NEAR.
<<I did.>>
If I put my straightedge along the surface I can see some light come through; I'm guessing there is a gap of a millimeter or less.
<<Hmm...ok.>>
Based on information I have found on your site, the consensus is that I should put some foam under the tank to ensure uniform contact with the stand.
<<A popular solution, yes.>>
So my questions are as follows: I bought some half-inch, pink insulating foam from my local HD, is this too thick?
<<Possibly>>
Secondly, there is a quarter-inch gap between the base of the tank and the bottom of the glass. Do I need to worry about any pressure on the bottom piece of glass as the foam squishes down?
<<Excess pressure on the bottom as the edges settle is certainly a concern, but if the foam is "soft" there's probably little worry as it should compress nicely.  As your gap is so small... To allay your fears you might consider using the blue fan-fold foam insulation (also at HD) which is about 1/4" thick.>>
Thanks again!
Dave
<<Regards, Eric R.>>

Leveling my tank
Hi crew. I have a 135G glass tank and I checked to see how level the stand is by running my driver's license between the tank bottom and the top of the stand.
<Good technique>
There are a few spot where the license will fit through so I wanted to put Styrofoam underneath like the site suggests. My question is what size Styrofoam? Lowe's carries 1/2", 3/4", and 1". Which one would be best?
<For this size tank, gapping, the half inch will do>
Further more, will that solve the problem? 
<Yes, very likely so>
Thank you. Mike
P.S. I have sent a diagram of my proposed setup twice now and haven't gotten a reply, but I think it could possibly be on my end. 
<Mmm, we do have trouble (more rather than less as time goes by) with some emails, attachments... have asked our service provider re...>
The file size is 1.67 MB. Is that too big for you to receive?
<Maybe. Alternatively, please try sending to my personal address: fennerrobert@hotmail.com>
I sent it with AOL first, then I used Picassa, a picture program.
<A really neat program>
Is there anything else I can do so you will get the diagram? Tanks!
<Be chatting, Bob Fenner>

Leveling my tank, cont'd
Hello again.  You recommended that I use 1/2" Styrofoam sheet to put between my 135G tank and stand due to the stand not being flat.  I have gotten it back onto the stand and it closed up most of the gaps, however there is still one corner that has a gap, probably 1-2 mm.  I am wondering if I should get a thicker piece of Styrofoam, or try to fill with tap water and see if it settles down and closes the gap.  What do you think would be the best way to go?  Thanks again.  Mike
<Am feeling uncomfortable recommending a thicker piece here... I would shore up the stand (a wedge or two under the closer leg/s... and see if this brings the surface to level, planar. Bob Fenner>

Re: Leveling my tank, cont'd
Bob, thank you for the reply.  I sent another message last night because I thought you had not gotten this one.  Sorry for that.
<No worries. Did see this. We're running a bit behind... as usual>
Also, my stand does not have legs, the bottom and top is 2X4's that are laying flat.
<Mmm, well, there's got to be "some bottom" to the whole structure... this is what needs leveling, shimming>
So the only way shims would work is if I put them directly under the tank which would mean that the tank would not be supported by the entire stand but rather just the shims.
<No! As you know>
Further more, then I don't understand how the Styrofoam would be effective.  Please help me, I am at a loss on how to remedy this.  Thanks.
<The foam/base is good for a small amount of uneven-ness of the stand base... but not a good idea to rely on it for more than a few millimeters over a few feet run... The sealant, glass can "give" a bit, but not too much. Bob Fenner>

New 75 gal setup question, tank not lying flat on stand
I have a recently set up top fin 75 gal tank and stand. One thing I noticed in the back is that the tank is not sitting exactly flush in the middle of the stand.
<Yikes....>
You could slide a paper between them barely, but this just highlights that it is not exactly flush at this point the exact center out about 10 in each direction. All the corners and front are flush. Is this ok?
<No>
Is it better to have foam between the tank and stand?
<Ah, yes!>
I have heard both sides and some manufacturers will tell you not to do this. Please advise.
Thanks
Will
<All edges of the tank must lie flat/planar and level... All manufacturers I know of will NOT warranty their tanks if this is not provided on their stands. Bob Fenner> 

Stand Leveling Problems -
Hi guys,
I am just about to set up my 120 gallon tank in my basement. My LFS owner is a friend of mine and he is helping me build a nice solid oak stand for it. The problem is my basement is horribly unlevel, and something is going to have to go under the stand to level the tank. I don't want to cut the stand nor do I think it would work for the way it's built. The only thing I can think of is to make a box out of a strong wood that would level out a 5 foot by 2 ft section of my basement. That way I could set up my tank rite on top of it and whenever the tank came down (I'm going to college in a year) the stand would still be level.
Would this work. Any other ideas? <It would work... I suppose it depends just how uneven your basement floor is. I've kept a tank in my basement before, and it's safe to say that very few concrete slabs are perfectly level. What I did was fill the tank just one inch - enough to see the water above the trim, and then used shims [available at Home Depot] added around the outer edges to level the tank. If you've got large changes in grade - over half an inch, then you probably do need to consider other options to level this out.>
Thanks, Jake
<Cheers, J -- >

Taking His Tank To A Whole New (Even) Level!
Scott,
<Hello again!>
Thank you for you reply.
<You're quite welcome!>
If you don't mind, I would like to ask you a few more questions. I got the regular pine stand sold by AGA and I'm planning to set it up in a room with hard wood floor. I already reinforced the bottom of the stand so that my sump does not crash through the thin ply that AGA puts in.
<You're not the first person who has mentioned that to me!>
Yesterday, I was about to start shimming the stand to make the tank level (the front needs to go up only about 1/8") and then thought that the individual shims could put more pressure on some of the floor planks than the others. But perhaps this is not an issue since the planks are nailed to the plywood under it, the tank will be standing right next to a load baring wall and will be supported by a number of 2x8's. 
So when you shim a stand like mine, do you put a few shims under the stand to get it level, or do you try to distribute the pressure on as many shims as possible (note that the bottom of the sand is constructed as a frame, it does not have 4 legs)?
<Even distribution of weight is essential! You certainly don't want to create any uneven pressure on one of the tank walls.>
On your web site I saw a few recommendations to put 3/4" piece of plywood under the stand. Is this needed with this type of floor/stand? 
<Purely subjective...No right or wrong on this one. If it keeps things nice and level, and helps distribute the weight of the tank evenly, it's not a bad idea.>
If so, do you put the shim between the ply and the stand, or between the ply and the floor?
<I'd place it between the ply and the stand, myself>
Thanks, Petr
<My pleasure, Petr. Good luck! Regards, Scott F>

Teetering Tank - Very Scary (3/7/04)
  First of all, I would like to say that you guys are wonderful. <Thanks> I am having a problem with my 90 gallon Oceanic bow front aquarium. I installed shims under the stand to level the aquarium. After filling the aquarium, it remained level, and I thought I was home free. The problem I am having is that the aquarium is sitting on such thick carpet, you can rock the tank if you make sudden movements by it (i.e. jump a little/run by). Oceanic stands are flat on the bottom, so it really doesn't "dig" into the carpet like my old stand did. The stand is very narrow, and tall, so I think this only adds to the problem. What are your recommendations? The best way to describe it is that the stand is merely floating on the top of the carpet. While I don't think anybody is going to rock the stand enough to send it crashing to the floor, I am concerned about the minor movements due to the carpeting. The last thing I want is to create extra stress by these possible movements. Please advise. Thanks, Matt
<Matt: This is an EXTREMELY dangerous situation, especially if you have small children. Any degree ability to rock can lead to toppling in the right circumstance. Toppling the tank could easily kill a child. And actually, a large shard of glass in the right spot could kill an adult. I recommend you drain the tank right away. Then: Choice #1: find another place for it where there's a hard floor. Another option: Have a carpet person come and cut a hole in the carpet big enough to accommodate the stand. You could put down vinyl flooring in that space and put a proper edge/border between it and the carpet. Steve Allen.>