Re9: 120 Reef Sump/Refugium 3/29/08 Thank you Scott for your time. <Welcome John, I have combined your three emails into one for simplicity.> Of coarse I have some other questions. <OK> What steps should I take when I am going to start to fill the tank? Should I start to fill main tank till the water gets to the return pump. <Yes, above the return pump.> Then what? <Start the pump if all the plumbing is done!> Or what do you recommend? What are the chances of the main tank overflowing, <Very little (there is always a chance) if your return is sized appropriately.> what’s the best way to prevent this? <Appropriate flow for the drains.> The sump I’m not to worried about because it will be located in the garage. <You still don’t want to lose water!> I was thinking of maybe using one of the 3/4"in the MegaFlows, maybe putting a 1"1/2 PVC pipe just below the tank rim, through wall to outside just incase the water rose it would just drain out of main tank. But then I’m loosing a drain. What do you think? <This would amount to very little. If you outrun the other drains one ¾” emergency drain will amount to very little safety margin.> Can I wait a couple of months until I get a skimmer to start running tank ? <To start it at all? Yes. You can stock the tank without a skimmer, but I always advocate for the use of a skimmer, from the start.> Thanks again for your time with my set-up, if it wasn’t for you I wouldn’t even attempt this. <Welcome John, it sounds like it is all coming together.> Hey Scott, it’s John again. I am working on the plumbing under tank just wanted to know what you think. I’m using 4 "tees" 1"1/2" to 2", both the 1" and 3/4" drains are coming down from tank into the tees. <OK> My question is I have to go into wall to the immediate left of the outlet in the picture. I might have to put an elbow then out the wall. All the water will come down to left through wall into sump. Or should I divert the water from both over flows to middle then through wall, or is it ok the other way? <Whatever works to get the plumbing done. You will not lose much flow either way, you are well below the capacity of a 2” pipe.> The immediate right I put a clean out, and the valves are mostly for emergency shut down. <No reason for valves on a gravity fed line. Shutting off the return pump will shut down the lines.> I added some pictures for you to see. Of course they will be higher up, the main is a 2" as you recommended. The inlets to the "tees" are an 1"1/2. <Sounds fine.> Hey Scott, I just wanted to see what you think about the plumbing under my tank so far. This is the only possible way I can see doing it. I have both sides spilling into center, to go into wall. <This will work fine.> The center is about were its going to come out to drop into sump in garage. The black valve behind is the return, it’s 1" up to tank, then reduced to 3/4"along top. Then I have 3 outlets at top, left, center, right of tank. Each will have a 6" 1/2"flex pipe, with valves. I attached pictures, almost there, thanks. Hope it looks ok, John. <All looks fine, welcome, Scott V.> Thanks buddy, you are a great help. John <Welcome, enjoy finishing the setup, it is my favorite part! Scott V.>

Re10: 120 Reef Sump/Refugium 3/29/08 Hey Scott, I just had a question re to the bulk heads, the 1" under tank is a slip fitting, I put the 1" PVC into with PVC cement, it just seamed a little loose to me. Is this supposed to be the 1" PVC slips into this bulk head and that's it? <Cementing it in is fine and advisable.> Also the 3/4"under tank is a threaded fitting. The bulkhead I used 100%silicone on both sides of gasket, I used plumbers putty below tank , hand tightened nut .Is this ok? <Hand tight is fine. What did you use plumber’s putty on, the threads into the bulkhead? I would remove this and use silicone hear, much less likely to leak.> Or should I use a wrench. My next question is the stand I’m using is an AGA cherry wood cabinet. This was the cabinet for the 210 tank I had. I took the right side off the cabinet, was able to cut the floor of it and reattach the right panel, making it a 48" cabinet. I used corner brackets added vertical wood and horizontal pieces for further support. I then added more pieces along top inner rim. I put 1/2"ply-wood on top with middle support. I know its hard to say but does this sound all right? <It sounds like it will be fine.> I will take pictures to try to capture what I am saying. <Ok, sounds good. From you description it sounds as though you made the stand strong enough. Scott V.> Re10: 120 Reef Sump/Refugium 3/29/08 Hey Scott, I just came down from putting kids to sleep. Anyway, I just removed the plumbers putty from the bulkheads, I won't be able to sleep knowing this may be a problem. <You will be better off for doing this.> You don't know how much I must thank you for all your help, with my tank set up and even my writing and grammar. I know its not perfect, but I've learned to take my time (ha ha). <Thank you John, it is always a pleasure to help where and when I can.> Well good night. Time to work on plumbing the sump/refugium. I'm waiting for my 3/8" glass to be cut. Then I could start on that. So I wont bother you for a while. Thanks a million Scott, talk to you soon.. John. <Very welcome, do let us know how it all comes out, Scott V.> Re: 120 Reef Sump/Refugium 4/4/08 Hey guys, I just had a question or two. I was wondering if it was ok to use clear 1"flex pipe to plumb my return pump? <Hmmm, yes vinyl tubing? It can kink and restrict flow if you are not careful. Flexible PVC or nylon reinforced vinyl are a better choice.> I’m probably going to use rigid PVC 1"right at pump with 1"valve, then the 1" clear pipe approx 5' to rigid PVC were it enters the back wall. I wanted to use flex (white) PVC, but Home Depot, pool suppliers don’t carry it. <Most do under the SpaFlex label.> Don’t want to order on line because I don’t need 50'.My next question is regarding the Durso pipes, the 1" is a slip and the 3/4" is threaded in overflow boxes. I feel it’s going to be difficult to get exactly the same heights due to one being a slip and the other being threaded. When I build them out of tank they might be exact but when one is put into slip fitting then one being threaded might throw off there heights. It’s also very difficult to measure them in the overflow boxes due to avail room. What do you recommend? <Build both and “dry fit” before cementing anything this will make it easy for you to adjust the heights to match. You may have to install and remove the standpipes a time or two, but this is about the long run, a little extra effort is worth it.> While I have you here I just wanted to sum up what I have set up so far to see what you think. 2-1" AND 2-3/4" over flows being used as drainage coming down under tank to all 1" approx 10", then to 1" 1/2" "tee" to a 2" manifold. This is drained from middle approx 1"right into wall. When it comes out the other side it extends approx 1' then a 45 degree then down into sump. The sump area is approx 2' x 22",spills over 3/8 glass approx 16"high then under and over the third baffle which is 15". The refugium is in the middle, approx 33" x 2' then hits the second set of baffles 14" then 13" to the return pump. <This all sounds fine.> Returning water back to tank through 1" flex or PVC into wall. The 1" runs up the back of tank were it splits in middle I used a 3/4" PVC, then three 1/2" return nozzles along back, left, center, right of the tank. I will be using 1/2" flex pipe to direct flow to different areas in tank which will have little valves to control flow in tank. <I assume you are referring to Loc-Line, a good configuration.> I know this is a little lengthy but I just want it to all be right. Thanks John, PS, what size return pump did you recommend for this application, and what make of pump? <I would choose something in the 700-800 gph at your head height for this, a Eheim 1262 if it were me.> I was thinking mag. <You can go this route, a Mag 9.5 will do the trick. Good luck, Scott V.> Re: 120 Reef Sump/Refugium Re: Sump/Refugium, Tubing found 4/5/08 Hey Scott, thanks for the response. <Welcome.> I found the tubing I needed. Yes the SpaFlex tubing. 6' for $11. <Great!> Also regarding the Durso pipes I found the "Durso" web site and ordered the 1" and 3/4" pipes pre made. I am using the LocLine in the tank for returns. I ordered (3) 6" flex line tubes with a valve on each so I have control of flow in tank. I also ordered flared ends. Should I drill a small hole in the flex pipe to break the siphon just below the water line, and if yes what size hole? <You certainly can, a few 1/8-3/16” holes in each line will do the trick.> I’m going to send you pics in my next e-mail of the sump/refugium. <Sounds good, Scott V.> Re: 120 Reef Sump/Refugium 4/5/08 Hey Scott, here’s the pics of the sump/refugium. I hope they came out, John. Thanks for all the help. Hey Scott, I didn’t know if you got my pics last night, ,here they are again. John <Yes, they came through this time. Although a little blurry, the design looks good, this will work fine. Welcome, Scott V.> Re: 120 Reef Sump/Refugium 4/7/08 Hey Scott, I just had a question. <Hello again John.> I was wondering if I should "tee" off the spa flex that’s running over the refugium with a valve. <I would not.> Would this lesson the flow in the main tank returns? <Yes, this approach wastes power in my opinion.> Or should I put in a power head for more flow. <If you need more flow in the refugium this is the way to go.> I would like to put in some Chaetomorpha algae. Could I use a plant grow light from home depot for this? <Certainly.> If yes what type do you recommend? <I use, recommend and even sell a patio light from Costco for refugium use. It is a 6500 Kelvin 65 watt quad compact bulb for around $8. It does need a cord attached to it and has a photo sensor that needs to be removed. Any 6500K or so fluorescent bulb will serve you well here.> Should I wait to put in the Chaetomorpha algae when cycling or put it in immediately? <I like to wait until the tank is cycled and stable to add the macroalgae. Best regards, Scott V.> Re: 120 reef sump/refugium MegaFlow Modification 4/17/08 Hey guys. <Hello John.> I have a couple of questions. First, I got my pump hooked up and tested, filled tank and sump. Seemed to work no leaks in plumbing. <Great!> I’m using the Mag pump 9.5 I know you suggested Eheim, but got it for a good price. <We all use different pumps, the Mags are a fine choice.> I drained all because I’m waiting for the Durso pipes to get here. Still need to get skimmer, light and rock. So my question is I was reading on the Durso web sight under mega flow modification. They cut out the teeth and put in a mesh face. They cut a piece of gutter guard and hot glued in place. This was done for more flow. What do you think about this? <I have seen this many places and find it totally unnecessary. The thinking is to increase the flow through the overflow, but the teeth are not the issue, it is bulkhead size. Fact of the matter is the bulkhead(s) limit the flow to just a bit more than 300 gph if you use the 1” and around 450 per overflow if you also use the ¾” as a drain. The teeth (I have actually tested this) are good for a little more than 900 gph.> It just seems good to me due to the teeth clogging up. <Yes, if you wind up with serious algae issues.> Would this be ok in my application? <It does not hurt, it is just not needed in my opinion.> My last question was I have an FX-5 canister filter from my previous set up. Could I use this at my sump just for carbon or other things. NOT <mechanical> filtration. Or would this also cause high nitrates? Just wanted your input on this or should I just scrap it and put directly in sump? Thanks again, John. <You could use the canister for this purpose. Although it is an inconvenient way to run carbon compared to making yourself a tray of some sort in your sump to hold it. You will still need to clean the canister and the carbon is just far easier to change out in the sump. Welcome, Scott V.> Re: 120 Reef Sump/Refugium 5/2/08 Hey Scott, I received the Euro Reef RS 180 today. <Christmas!> It seems to be working well. So I’m probably going to go for the light 2x 250watt HQI 4x54watt actinics not the 2x150HQI. My main question is I’m shopping around and reading up on your sight regarding a top off system and R/O system. Thank god for the 210 gallon sump/refugium!!!!. <A very nice, worthwhile addition.> Can you recommend a good system that will work well as for a R/O unit that will work with a auto top off. <Just about any R/O with an auto shut off assembly will work. I personally have an Aqua FX unit.> Does the R/o unit plumb into a float valve in storage container then into the sump via the top off unit sending R/O water back into sump? <This is one way, generally the least complicated to set up. So much to say here, this is one of my future product ideas (of many, developed slowly with much R&D). By far my favorite ATO unit on the market is the Tunze, for many reasons; reliability and safeguards being the main two. Price and stock mounting options being the drawbacks with this unit. By swapping a 12V normally closed solenoid out for the included pump you can hook it up directly to your RO without worry. No more hauling top off water!> Do you think I should go with the 2x250 HQI'S or 2x150's. I probably would like to add clams. <If you have any desire to go the clam or SPS route the 250’s will serve you well in a 24” deep tank.> Thanks again for your time, you've been a great help in this entire set-up. John. <A pleasure to help out/share. Thank you, Scott V.>

Refugium/Sump design   3/12/08
Hello,
<Kevin.>
I am almost finished setting up a 210 with the following equipment:
-Two 1200 MagDrive return pumps
-Two Koralia 4 powerheads
-150g RODI Reefkeeper Unit with ATO
-Three 400w MH lights
-100 lbs live sand in the main tank
-200 lbs of live rock
-Refugium
-Protein Skimmer
My goal is to have fish, live rock, crustaceans, and coral. I expect that initially I will have more fish than coral.
<OK>
I have ½ inch glass available and somebody that can assemble it into a tank 48 long, 16 high, and 17 wide. The plan so far is to have the pumps be internal.
1) Will this be of adequate size?
<If your skimmer fits, yes.>
2) How wide should each chamber be?
<Large enough to fit the skimmer in one chamber, large enough to house the two Mag Drives in the return and make the balance the refugium.>
3) What protein skimmer would you suggest?
<An appropriately sized (see manufacturers recommendations) EuroReef, ASM or AquaC would be my three choices.>
4) What substrate would you suggest and how deep?
<A fine aragonite sand 1” deep or less for aesthetics or 4”+ if you want to run a deep sand bed for NNR.>
5) Can you point me to a link or picture with a specific design for the refugium and any components associated with the refugium that I have not
considered?
< http://www.melevsreef.com/allmysumps.html has many sump/refugium configurations to choose from.>
6) Along with the design what would plumbing include between the tank and refugium and within the refugium.
<First is your overflow drain lines, this is a whole discussion within itself. Do research the subject to be sure you have sufficient draining capacity for your pumps. Next, you can run plumb your return pumps directly to the tank. No plumbing within the refugium should be necessary, depending on the design you pick.>
7) Do you have any other suggestions that would help automate the system and provide me with an ideal setup given my plan.
<My suggestion is to continue researching each aspect of your design. There is much useful information on WWM and other sites regarding the pros and cons of each.>
Your advice would be greatly appreciated. Once I visited your website I changed from wanting to purchase a wet/dry system to knowing that I need a
refugium.
<This is a much better choice/way to go.>
At this point I would rather make any suggested changes and do things right the first time.
Thanks again for sharing your knowledge with all of us who want to pursue this hobby.
Thank You,
Kevin Herman
<You are welcome. You do have the basic concepts, just continue reading regarding applying different designs to your particular system. Each system is different, so you will have to decide! Have fun, Scott V.>

Adding Baffles to Sump/Refugium 2/23/08
Hello to all.
<Hello, Scott V. with you.>
Mike here I want to modify a DIY sump/refugium out of a 40 long glass aquarium. I had the sump/refug running for about 6 months now and have been fighting micro bubbles the whole time.
<Frustrating, isn’t it?>
So I finally decided to modify it a touch, adding in some baffles. My Question is this how much would the number of baffles affect the flow rate?
<It shouldn’t have a bearing on your flow rate at all.>
I have tried different things with my down lines I have tried filter sponges you name it I have tried it. The return pump is hard plumbed and I even went around and put some silicon around all fittings. I thought maybe the fittings were water tight but not air tight I know it sounds dumb but I like I said I tried everything.
<This doesn’t sound dumb, all are valid issues.>
I have three chambers now down lines, skimmer, and refug. I was going to add three 1 inch chambers at the end where my return pump is. My pump is external and does about 1200 gph. I have read and read on your site but didn't truly find the answer I was looking for. Any info. would be helpful. Hopefully this is enough info. for you guys to help me. Thank you and hope to hear back from you soon.
<Your plan will work out fine, it will not be a problem with your flow. Check out the included link below, this is a nice way of installing bubble trap baffles. It will allow you to do so without tearing down your sump and you can easily adjust it to suit your needs. Welcome, have fun, Scott V.>
http://wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_3/cav3i1/Baffles/baffles.htm

Refugium Questions... des.  2/11/08
I'm setting up a 40 gallon refugium on my 180 gallon tank. My sandbed is about 4-5 inches. (Thoughts on this would be appreciated, but not the focus of my questions)
<Sounds like a good plan.>
What kind of flow should I have? My flow right now is pretty low. ~100 gallons per hour and this is just because it was the easiest way to set it up.
<I would up this to perhaps as high as 400-500 gph in this size system and refugium.>
I also thought it might be better to start slow to prevent my tank from cycling with the addition of all that sand.
(Not sure if that would actually happen though).
<Not unless it was true live sand that needed to be cured.>
And do I need circulation in addition to the flow coming in from the sump?
<You can, in this case I would opt to increase the rate of flow through the refugium a few hundred gph.>
My other question has to do with lighting. Is a 65w PC enough?
<Yes, preferably in the 6500K spectrum.>
More than needed?
<No, just keep the light as close to the macroalgae as possible.>
Just right? Would I be OK with a 44W T5? I might be wrong on the exact wattage of the T5, but somewhere around there.
<I would go for the PC in this case, more wattage while still using one bulb.>
Thanks!
<Welcome, Scott V.>

Refugium Set Up…Matching To The Size Of The Display – 02/07/08
Hello,
<<Howdy>>
Your site will be my undoing, but thank you all.
<<Ha! Is indeed addictive>>
So my plans have changed yet again, I found a good deal on an Oceanic RR 150g and I already have my 150 at home.
<<So, two 150s? Neat!>>
I was planning on building an acrylic tank underneath the 150 but now I think I am going to build a stand to house both 150's one on top of the other with maybe a foot of space in between.
<<And utilize one or the other for the refugium? ...Excellent. Many commercial/public facilities actually employ refugia as large as or larger than the displays they support. Many benefits to doing so>>
The Oceanic has 2 overflows in both back corners so I think that will be the top display.
<<Okay…and do be aware these throughputs will likely NOT handle the “rated” flow. If these are 1” bulkheads/drains figure 600gph en toto. Plenty for draining to the sump/refugium…but you will need to contrive more flow/circulation overall for the display itself>>
Then the 150 below it only has a single overflow, I was going to plumb one of the top tanks overflows into the bottom and then plumb the other overflow to a sump set up behind the stand.
<<Okay…and the refugium would also drain to the pump chamber of the sump (recommended)? I would also consider either enlarging or adding a second drain from the refugium to the sump for a margin of safety from accidental overflow>>
I have a couple of questions.
1. If I set it up like this and have the overflow on the bottom tank going straight to a pump back into the top, in the event of a power outage (I live in south Florida it is fairly regular) how would I set up so I would not get any leakage.
<<This is accomplished by setting drain/skimmer box and “running” water heights so that when power is cut to the pump, all transient water volume will be contained. This often requires a bit of “trial and error”>>
2. For the sump all I plan on having in there is a rather large skimmer
<<Do consider adding a media reactor or two for chemical filtration>>
I guess I really don't understand how much transient water volume I would have coming from the top tank so I don't overflow to the floor.
<<Again, this depends on the height of the overflow box and the running height of the water in the display. Position yourself where you can easily start/stop the return pump and play with the height of the overflow to fine tune. If the overflow heights are “fixed”…then it becomes a matter of adjusting the running height of the water in the sump and refugium to allow enough “empty space” to hold the transient water volume>>
3. Do you see anything wrong with this setup?
<<Other than needing another drain from the refugium to the sump…and some testing to determine working water heights…I think you have a good plan>>
With the 1 to 1 ratio on the refuge (Chaetomorpha, LR, and DSB) and display do you think I will need any other filtration other than a massive protein skimmer?
<<Possibly not, but will depend much on stocking density, maintenance/husbandry…do still consider the chemical reactors just the same…at least as an option as the tank “fills up”>>
Any ideas/suggestions you have would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
Keith Fontes
<<Happy to assist. Eric Russell>>

10 Gallon DIY Refugium 1/30/08
What is a simple design of 10 gallon refugium for a 50 gallon tank? I don't want to put a skimmer since its fine in my display. Please help a confused aquarist out. Thank you
mike,
<If you want just a refugium, this can be as simple as overflowing your tank into the 10 gal and then pumping from the 10 back into the tank via a small pump or powerhead. Or you can do an upstream refugium that has the refugium above the tank. There is no law set in stone that says you need baffles, but they will help eliminate any bubble in the return though. Either way you will want to leave the water level low enough for the transit volume, the amount of water the lower tank will gain from water in the line and siphoning when the power is off. You will also need an overflow, drilled or siphon type on one of the tanks. I hope this help out, this is a project worth the effort, Scott V.>

Re: 10 Gallon DIY Refugium 1/30/08
Could you please draw me something? please
<Hi Mike, designing something requires knowing exactly what you wish to accomplish and what will/is be(ing) included in the set up. If you simply want a refugium, an open tank will serve just fine with a small powerhead and overflow. If you are looking to design and build a sump you will need you account for your equipment and orientation of on an individual (your) basis. Even a sump can simply be an open tank; it is just something that holds water and equipment. I will include some links below that will show some sump designs, overflow type and how to put baffles in your tank if you wish. Best of luck, Scott V.>
http://wetwebmedia.com/ca/volume_3/cav3i1/Baffles/baffles.htm
http://www.momsfishsupply.com/overflowinstallation.html
www.cpraquatic.com/pdf/CS150.pdf
http://www.melevsreef.com/allmysumps.html

Re: 10 Gallon DIY Refugium 1/30/08
Do I need to divide the refuge area and pump area?
<It certainly doesn’t hurt, it will help to keep the contents of the refugium out of the pump and minimizes the introduction of microbubbles into the tank. That being said, it is not a necessity, you can simply run a powerhead as a return and have it in the upper third of the refugium, off the sandbed. Scott V.>

Refugium Question 1/17/08
Crew,
<Joe>
I have a 210 gallon tank I am currently setting up and wish to add a refugium.
<A worthwhile addition to any tank.>
I have a 30 gallon tank I am going to use for this purpose. If I feed the tank with a line teed off from one of my tank drain lines (will have a ball valve and will end in a elbow fitting half submerged in the refugium to cut down on noise and bubbles) and then have it gravity drain into the sump through a 1 1/2 inch bulkhead with a strainer will it work correctly?
<Yes, do be aware that the strainer will reduce flow quite substantially (in the neighborhood of 15%). But, I assume you are splitting off from another drain line of equal or lesser size and have a ball valve to control flow, you should be fine. Just be diligent about keeping the strainer clean.>
Or does it have to have baffles and such?
<No, not for just a refugium.>
I feel it should work correctly the way I have described, if not please let me know how I should set the refugium up.
<Sounds good.>
As always thanks for all the help.
Joe
<Very welcome Joe, have fun setting this up, Scott V.>

Refugium Design 1/12/08
Dear Wet Web,
I am a long time reader and first time writer.
<Welcome to WWM.>
I have been prowling the 100's of pages of valuable information you guys have and not found a solid answer to my question. Current set up is a 50gal tank with a 20 gallon sump. My question pertains to my sump/refugium plumbing and design. At the moment the water drains from the overflow in the display (through a filter-sock) into the left compartment of the sump (which has a 2-3 crushed coral bed) and the skimmer intake pump is also located in this first chamber.
<Do consider removing the crushed coral. It is a detritus trap/nitrate producer, even with the sock.>
The middle compartment of my sump currently is housing Chaetomorpha with a bare bottom (and the actual skimmer due to size constraints). After a series of baffles there is the furthers right compartment which is my return section of my sump. I hope I did not confuse you with my configuration.
<No, clear enough.>
My actual question is should I move my skimmer intake into chamber two (the middle one also currently housing the actual skimmer) and move the Chaeto to the furthest left
compartment (the initial display return with the crushed coral) and finally plumb my skimmer output the return section of my sump (the furthest left section)?
<No, I would keep it configured as is. The skimmer intake is best separated from any water that has been through the refugium to allow any micro fauna coming out of it (the refugium) to make it to the tank.>
I would greatly appreciate the help since I am going for long term effects. Thanks!!!
<Very welcome, good luck, Scott V.>

Thoughts and Suggestions on a Combined Refugium/Sump…and Pumps – 01/07/07
Hi Crew!
<<Hiya Doug!>>
I've been in the hobby just a few months now, and am excited to step up from my 20G to a 120G!
<<Neat! Bigger “is” better>>
I'm planning for mostly FOWLR, but may add more inverts/corals as I slowly gain experience.
<<Mmm, then do keep this in mind when making your stocking selections…you will want to collect “reef friendly” specimens>>
Here are my current plans:
- 120G tank, 48x24x24", acrylic.
- Stand 40" tall, 9" canopy.
- 2 corner overflows – each with 2" inner diameter bulkhead at 20" height.
<<Ahh, very good…I see you’ve been reading!>>
- 2x 1" inner diameter bulkheads for return from sump.
For a sump/refugium below, I'm thinking of a standard 55G tank following your diagrams.
<<”Standard” glass tanks work quite well as sump and/or refugium vessels…and are a whole-lot cheaper than the purpose-built retail alternatives. Add a few baffles, drill and install a couple bulkheads (when/if necessary), and you’re “golden”…with money saved/ready to spend on other areas. My own system incorporates a modified 55g tank for a refugium, and a modified 75g tank for a sump>>
- Skimmer: AquaC EV180 w Mag 7 pump.
- Aiming for 15x water flow gives 1800gph.
<<Indeed…but I expect you will find that trying to process this much water volume through a 55g sump will be problematic>>
- Two sump return pumps, internal Eheim 1262s (want it to be quiet), should be about 1600gph at 5" head.
<<Very good pumps…and the “redundancy” of two pumps for your return can be a lifesaver, literally. About a year ago a faulty GFCI tripped and shut down the return pump on my heavily stocked 500g reef system (was off more than nine hours before discovery). The ensuing anoxic condition resulted in the loss of more than $1200.00 worth of livestock (fish and corals). Let’s just say “lesson learned”… I now have two return pumps on separate circuits for this system>>
Questions:
1. Is that too much flow through the refugium?
<<Yes… A couple to a few hundred gallons per hour is generally sufficient for a refugium. Obviously, utilizing “separate” vessels for sump and refugium make plumbing for the differing flow rates a bit easier>>
2. If so, would it work well to use just a single Eheim for the sump return, ~800gph, with an internal powerhead like a Tunze Stream in the tank?
<<800gph through the sump would be easier to accommodate (and a LOT less noisy), and some creative work with the baffles could provide a “raceway” to allow the full force of the flow to circumvent the refugium section on its way from the skimmer chamber to the pump chamber, while allowing you to divert a few hundred gph to the ‘fuge…if you choose to keep with a single combined vessel. I still like the idea of two return pumps…perhaps a couple Eheim pumps of lesser size…>>
Then maybe reduce the drains to 2x 1.5"ID?
<<A pair of 1.5” drains would handle a flow of 800gph quite well, with a healthy safety margin>>
Your thoughts and suggestions are very welcome!
Thanks,
Doug
<<Is my pleasure to assist. EricR>>

Adding sump/Fuge to a nano -12/14/07 Dear Mr. Fenner & Crew, <Hello again Pearson> Below, you will find my previous correspondence for reference. I couldn't find the original emails, so I just copied them from the FAQs. <Ah, good> I wanted to thank you again for your input, and to let y'all know I finally went ahead with this project. A few nights ago, I successfully drilled and plumbed my JBJ Nanocube 12 gallon tank to accommodate a 15 gallon sump/refugium. While I have never drilled a tank before, nor done any kind of DIY projects related to aquaria, it turned out to be pretty straight forward. There were a couple of design considerations I took into account that may be of use to someone else considering doing something similar. <I thank you for sharing your experiences, observations> I decided to plumb the return line into the display portion of the tank, and the drain line in the last chamber of the rear section of the tank. This way, the rear section functions as an overflow of sorts, and still causes water to flow through all three rear chambers, so they can still be used to house LR rubble, carbon, a heater, or whatever else you might have back there. I also made sure to line up the return bulkhead with the location of the existing hole in the rear wall of the display tank where the stock MaxiJet pump outlet was, so I could take advantage of that hole, and not have to drill a new/larger hole. This also allows me to return to the stock configuration if I ever need to. I would only have to seal the bulkheads, and place the MaxiJet back in place. <All sounds/reads as reasonable> The benefits of this experiment are already evident. I'm using a Mag 2 as a return pump. Flow in the display is increased, and at the same time temperature is decreased. I now have plenty of room in the sump for growing macro, a DSB, more live rock, one or more media reactors (Phosban, carbon, what have you), an automatic top-off system, room to fit a decent skimmer, without having to resort to one of those tiny nano skimmers, not to mention the increased water volume and system stability. <Yes> Attached are a couple of pictures for reference. If you feel any of this might be helpful to others, please do post. <I will definitely do so> A great big thanks to everyone at WWM for all that you do for the hobby and hobbyists, and for helping me work out this project. Pearson <I REALLY wish that a couple friends/crewmembers here would crank out a title on "Aquarium Engineering"... such a work (DIY, mathematics...) with good graphics could/would help so MANY folks. Thank you again for sharing. Bob Fenner>

Outstanding.

Refugium Setup/Design – 12/11/07
Hello,
<<Howdy>>
Your site is wonderful.
<<A collective effort we’re glad you like it>>
Since I started my 30g tank a while ago I have become addicted.
<<There are worse things [grins]>>
I just purchased a used 150g 6' long tank that is predrilled.
<<Neat!>>
It only has one overflow with a single hole drilled in it.
<<Mmm...hopefully for a 2” bulkhead then>>
I am planning on cutting out one side of the stand and putting a door on it so I can put rollers down through the whole length of the stand and build a sump/refuge that will fill the entire length and width of the stand and still be able to access the tank by sliding it out the side (the tank will be on a wood platform with legs that will fold down when it is pulled out through the track. Do you see this as possible?
<<Mmm, let’s see...I’m envisioning a sump/refugium about six-feet in length and the width of the interior of the stand (16”?)... Nope... Even with only 8-10 inches of water depth, I don’t see how you are going to “fold-down” the platform to roll out the sump with causing some sort of damage...just too much fluid weight to deal with. Best to let this vessel rest on the floor/bottom of the stand>>
I want to build my refugium as large as I can make it to support my fish and coral population as naturally as possible.
<<Bigger is better, indeed. But based on this brief description, I foresee problems with your plan>>
I have a couple of questions. First will I need a separate return chamber or can I pump the refuge water directly into my display tank?
<<Direct return to the display is just fine (is what I do)>>
I am planning on plumbing the overflow directly into the skimmer chamber then having a baffle into the refuge, I was wondering if the nutrient export from the protein skimmer would be a detriment to the refuge or are any skimmers that efficient?
<<This is one of the reasons I prefer to use separate vessels for sump and refugium. But what you propose is fine...raw/unprocessed water “will” reach the refugium>>
With my refuge I am figuring on about 250-270 total gallons shared between the tanks. I am assuming I will need to go with a skimmer that has a capacity larger than the combined total but wanted to make sure due to the cost that this will affect.
<<Ah yes, but money well spent...if on a quality product. And my recommendation...get a skimmer that is sized/rated for about 10% more than what you figure you need>>
Also what skimmer with that capacity would you recommend?
<<My current fave is Euro-Reef... But do check out AquaC, H&S, and...if you really want to spend some bucks...Bubble King>>
I was also thinking about creating a couple of different sections within the refuge to grow different plants, have you heard of this at all?
<<I have...but “I” don’t recommend it. The macroalgae will compete/fight for space just like all other marine/reef life (the results of which can even malaffect your corals). Best to stick to a single species in my opinion, and let that energy be directed in toward more positive actions>>
Would you recommend I stick with just one compartment with Chaetomorpha in it?
<<I would, yes>>
I am planning on putting a 5 or 6 inch LSB.
<<Excellent...and another reason this sump/refugium will be too heavy to “manipulate” with a “folding” platform and rollers>>
Another question... With my single overflow I know I will not be able to get enough flow back into my display tank, I am planning on putting a couple extra power heads in the display, will there be enough flow in the refuge to allow good growth.
<<If you can achieve at least a few hundred gallons per hour with your overflow, yes>>
I know this is getting rather long but I have so many ideas that I want to try and just want to run them by you before I try anything.
<No worries...please do>>
I am also looking at putting another baffle in the refuge and having a separate maybe 20 to 30 gallon section that would be very low flow and try to stock a seahorse only tank.
<<Firstly...how are you going to control this flow on an integrated system such as yours? Secondly...whatever water quality/disease issues arise in the main display, will exist in the Seahorse tank. Maybe not the best place for this>>
Is that possible or am I going too big?
<<Best kept in their own isolated/specific system...in my opinion>>
I have always been told go big or go home let me know what you think.
<<Can be taken to extremes>>
Do you see any problems or have any recommendations for this system?
<<Indeed...and have stated such>>
Thank you so much.
<<Happy to assist>>
The amount of knowledge on this site in invaluable.
Keith
<<We’re pleased you think so. EricR>>

Re: Refugium Setup/Design - 12/12/07
EricR,
<<Hiya Keith!>>
Thank you for your input.
<<Most welcome>>
I am rethinking the seahorse portion and will probably just set up my old 30g for them.
<<This is best>>
I am also going to go with just one macroalgae and a 300g skimmer. I like the idea
of keeping the sump and refuge separate but with just one overflow, I think that the plumbing will have too many areas where It could fail if I tried to plumb it to two tanks.
<<Hmm...really is a simple matter to “bleed” some off the drain to feed in to the refugium>>
Do you know a good way to do this?
<<Use a Tee or a Wye fitting (whichever is available/best suits your configuration) inline with your drain plumbing to allow directing part of the flow; controlled with a gate-valve, to the refugium>>
The one thing I believe that you misunderstood, the actual stand for the sump will not be folding down it will be on a track on the bottom of the stand. The only thing that would fold down would be the feet every inch or two staggered on both sides of the tank.
<<Hmm...am having trouble visualizing what you are intending to do here>>
I cannot think of any other way that the tank would be accessible if any maintenance is required other than the regular maintenance, but even then you may be right I may have to just make the tank shorter so it is more accessible.
<<And may just take a trial run or two to figure it all out>>
Anyways, thanks a lot.
<<Quite welcome>>
You will be hearing from me over the next few weeks with my stocking plans.
<<Okey dokey>>
Thank you again,
Keith
<<Be chatting. EricR>>

Re: Refugium design 12/10/07
Thanks Scott,
<Welcome, hello Jesse.>
I have completed refugium 2.0 and it seems to work as I expected.
<Great to hear!!>
This 29 gallon refugium with Bak-pak skimmer is the only filtration for a 60 gallon and 20 gallon tank with live rock and sand. Should I add carbon occasionally or can I just see how it goes like this?
<I would use carbon. If you don’t use it continually, add it just before your lights come on. Adding carbon and allowing it to work several hours before the lights come on can actually shock your corals with the extra light penetration.>
Thanks,
Jesse
<Welcome, happy reefing, Scott V.>